Gil wiggling around the world

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2010-12-17T05:56:00.000-08:00

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Our time staying with the in-laws in our Vietnamese home.

Me and my buddy FSHD

Another day at Dung's.

2008-11-01T02:09:00.000-07:00

18/6 - Up for a shower, a manual, cold one and it does the trick and blows away the cobwebs. There's somemore visiting to be done today, someone has phoned to ask why we didn't go to see them yesterday. Dung's Dad is one of 9 and 7 of them live around here. Dung's uncle Hiep, finally got me fishing, but I caught nowt. He did thought and came trotting over with it dangling from the rod. We ate it for lunch. Yesterday's forgotten visitors were glad to see us and others called whilst we were there, to check out the ugly Englishman. Dung is a dab hand at sheperding me aoong to the next stop. We made it back for lunch and everyone is trying to fatten me up again, so I put my foot down and Dung promptly stepped on it. The fish here is smashing and as I said, very fresh. We were on the fresh, roll your own, spring rolls, made with rice paper and very nice too, even though I wasn't allowed to roll my own, Dung has seen me mess them up before. The day moved on and it is time to move onto An Binh, near Vinh Long. Dung has to be back at work on tomorrow. I think the family have spent money they don't have to feed me up. It has been an eye opener and a great experience. You don't get more Vietnamese than this.
We get a taxi to a street corner in HCMC and a minibus turns up to pick us up after about 15 minutes. I didn't know she had booked it and was ready to flag down any passing minibus that looked like it might head to Vinh Long. A ferry across the Mekong in Vinh Long and then a moto to the digs in Hoa Ninh. I have stayed here before, the people are smashing and chuffed to see me and Dung again. It's a chill place to stay. Dung is hungry, as always, so we get into a bowl of Hu Tieu, noodle soup, but the real stuff, not the stuff in a pot.
Another day done and it's good to be back in Vietnam.

Back to Vietnam

2008-10-15T20:58:00.001-07:00

17/6 - Waiting in KL for the HCMC flight and being a clever lad, I left my Malaysian money in the bag I checked in. "Wally" springs to mind, but I have a big bar of dark chocolate I picked up in NZ, so I wont waste away and there was plenty of grub on the flight.
Into HCMC and my bag turned up. I wasn't convinced it would, I shouldn't be so sceptical. Out into the madding crowd, back in Asia. There are hundreds of people milling around, so I couldn't spot Dung, even though she is tall for a Vietnamese. Her brothers girlfriend spotted me, which I thought was very clever, as we hadn't met before. I'd forgotten how hot it gets here, but was reminded when I started to melt, I don't hold out much hope for the chocolate I have left.
Dung has invited me to go to her parents. How could I say no, but I didn't want to. They have come on 2 motos, one borrowed from Dung's auntie Ut, so I hopped on with Luan, her brother and he put my rucksack in front of him, no problem. We had quite a natter on the way to Duc Hoa, their home, which was good considering the traffic in HCMC is like a death ride. Luan speaks better English than Dung, we had a good natter about all sorts, football being a big hit. Dung's village is about 20Km from HCMC, so it took us about 45 minutes from the airport. Along the way the 2 motos were often side by side and everyone nattering. Riding motos is 2nd nature to the Vietnamese. Dung's home is down a track off the main road, about 1Km. Dung told me they are poor and the house certainly backs that up, but it's like going to my Mam's, everyone if very friendly and welcoming. I got the traditional tea and the introductions are made, then we are off to the kitchen for some lunch. 2 of Dung's uncles are here too, giving me the once over I guess. I was given beer and the rest passed the ruou around, rice wine. There is lots of Yo going on, the same as Cheers and drink up. It is a proper family meal, just like in the Grumpy Old Man's days and food is constantly dropped into my bowl, the custom. Everyone is making a big fuss of me, which is not how I like it, but it is good of everyone. After lunch we go to visit Dung's Grandad and Grandma. They live with her uncle, as he is the youngest and tradition dictates that is usually the norm. He is the youngest of 9 and gets a lot of land from his father for the trouble of looking after him. It looks like Dung's Grandad has had a stroke and he told me, via Dung, that he has been in bed for 2 years, but he still manages to smile. He wanted me to lie down and nap with him, but I managed to put it off until the next visit. There are about 10 others here, checking me out, Dung is good, fussing over her Grandad, in fact she makes a fuss of everyone and it seems very proud of me. Her Uncle Hiep tried to get me to go fishing with him, but there is too much going on at the moment. Dung fielded the barrage of questions and everyone is smiling and laughing, I don't know what she is telling them. Dung managed to move us on, back to her house for a nap, the girl is flagging a bit and so am I, but it is not easy to sleep with all the excitement around. I don't get too hot, as everywhere I go, someone appears to plug in a fan. It's like I have one tied to my leg.
Dinner is lots of food again. I can't eat like the Vietnamese, but am constantly encouraged to do so. There's squid, pork, fish, veg and Luan tells me to eat quicker. The rice wine is flowing, but I stick to a beer. Everywhere we go we get tea, but not always the time to drink it before I am moved on. Dung's Mam, Nu, is drifting around in the background doing most of the work, much like Khien's Grandma. She is watching me like a hawk. Understandable.
Next stop, Tu's, Luan's girlfriends. Her house is attached to a Buddhist temple, her Grandma founded after being released from American custody at the end of the war. She seems to have been a bit of a heroine and Tu's Great Grandad is famous throughout Vietnam for standing up to the French. I had better not cause any bother here!! The temple acts as a temporary shelter for poor people and there is a lot of faith healing going on, while I sit around watching. It looks very dramatic, lots of incense smoke and people flopping into monks arms. There is lots of fruit being dished out and I got offered loads. We stayed in the temple, sat on a bench/table/bed, it acted as all 3. Everyone is very curious and friendly with the whitey from Blighty.
Back to Dung's to settle for the night. It is poorer than I expected. There is not a lot of privacy. No need to shout "Goodnight John Boy" here, if you whisper it the house next door will probably reply. There's no upstairs in these houses, no walls to the ceiling and no doors, but it is very homely. The Dutch have a good word to describe it, "Gezellig".
Good night John Boy, time to kip.

On the move again.

2008-10-14T05:42:00.000-07:00

16/6 - I packed last night, so only had to get up and go, well checkout too. I dried my towel in the drier and lobbed my backpack into a locker and hit the streets to find some breakfast fayre, fair or fare and if none of that some food. Bacon and eggs for the second day running, but cheaper and better. How does that work Grandad? Beats me, just enjoy it. Soon it will be noodles or rice again.
Had a quick e-fix and it was time to hit the road to the airport. $13 on the bus to the airport. $30 on the way in, so it's not just the Asians that try the rip off. Checked in and my bag should go all the way to HCMC on its own, with no intervention from me. We'll see. The Kiwis hit you with an unannounced $25 exit tax, a sneaky little move that one. Creditcards accepted. Airport security here and in Aus it tight. I got pulled up because I never put my plastic bag with my toothpaste and deodorant outside my bag. The security bloke was a real dour bugger. I think he would have put me infront of a firing squad for being so stupid. The bloke infront of me had to take the perfume prsents he'd bought, out of the packaging, put them in a clear plastic bag, then repack them once through security. "What's that all about Grandad?". Beats me darling! Through without being executed and chilling, but without a beer. That's becoming a bad habit.
On the plane on the first leg back to Vietnam. It's an hour late, but that's not a bad thing, I've a big wait in Brisbane. In Brisbane, but no boarding pass as yet and the transfer desk is shut. Everybody seems casual about it, there's a sign on the transfer desk for Thai Airways saying go to the gate an hour before boarding, but that's not a lot of use to me, I'm flying with Malaysia Air, but everyone seems to think that is the thing to do, so I had a toastie and a coffee and chilled, then chilled some more, then headed for the gate. The Malaysia Air bloke eventually turned up, so I went over. Guess what he said??? "Go to the transfer desk." I should have known really. The transfer desk wasn't fast, but she was smiley. She said "Ah Mr Brooks, where have you been?" In the bloody queue love!!. Sorted to HCM now and we're on the plane, all but one pillock, so their bags had to be offloaded, but we got away an hour and a bit late, for KL. I have a 3 hour wait there, so it is tighter than Brisbane, but should be no problem. I told myself not to watch any telly onboard and get some shut eye, so I watched a telly and got a bit of shut eye. There was an ignorant Hindu bloke sat next to me, but I didn't let him get to me, I just punched him in the mouth. As iffffffffffffff.
He handed his packet of peanuts to his wife, across the aisle, which I thought was very nice, until she handed them back after opening them for him. Tosser.
I must be tired, using pillock and tosser in the same post. Into KL and the longest leg is done, just a short hop now to HCMC.

Nothing much to report on a chill day.

2008-10-14T05:35:00.000-07:00

15/6 - the legs are tiring a bit, so an easy day today, dhobi and a bit of ironing, a walk and a chill in a pub that brews its own beer and very nice it is too. Just like a home from home. The food was good too, but I suppose lamb should be in New Zealand. The banoffee pie was a bit disapointing, probably because I wanted the apple and pear crumble, but they did it with whipped cream, not custard. Morons. I could have stayed, but didn't trust myself to stagger home. The pub is called Galbraiths, just in case you visit Auckland, it is worth calling for a beer, there is a good selection, there looked to be plenty of wine too, but I never tried it or it would definitely have been a bad stagger home, as it was I strolled back for a read, a shave and a shower, but probably not in that order.
I told you it was an easy day. I surprised myself by sticking to a plan, well more of an ad-lib than a plan.

Match day.

2008-09-22T23:29:00.000-07:00

14/6 - Match day and Mick is picking me up around midday to give me the tourist tour before tonights kick off and a good job he does of it too. 1st stop was Mount Eden, an extinct volcano, I hope, but judging by the grass in the crater it is extinct. It's a great view from up there and Mick is an informative guide. I never tried to tackle the crater and a good job too, judging by the state of a couple of Yanks who came to the top looking like a couple of leaves of wet lettuce, well and truely knackered. I hadn't seen Mick for donkeys years, well 7, and we only worked together a few months, but it is like we are age old buddies. He has some good stories to tell and being Welsh, likes to talk.
Off for some snap next, Mick needs an energy boost. I guess down to Michelle. What he had will certainly put fire in his engine, Titirangi something or other. It has all sorts in it on thick bread. There was bacon, syrup, fruit and other bits and pieces. Kiwi food I suppose. I opted for good old fashioned mince on toast and I'd already had breakfast, but I am trying to fatten up a bit. Asia has dropped some weight off me. The cold climate certainly encourages me to eat, but it also stiffens me up, so swings and roundabouts.
Off to another hill this time, with a different view, logically and then off to the beach, with black sand, but a smashing place. It's about 20-30 minutes from Auckland. The surfers are out and there are some smashing waves, barrel or tubes or whatever they are called, but Mick reckons it is calm. These are better waves than Manly beach, but the beach is a bit tighter, not so sprawling and there are some dodgy looking rocks to clatter into. From what I've seen so far, this is a beautiful country and I suspect it will get even better away from the cities, although Mick tells me the rural parts are very rural and the people very rough and ready.
Back to Mick's now to dump the motor, so beer will be the order of the night around the rugby. Mick had a power nap, while I surfed. Michelle again I reckon. He's renting a smashing place, just right. Lots of houses in New Zealand, or around here, are single storey with good sized gardens, just right for me, but I don't live here. Mick had ordered a taxi before crashing and it came while I was still surfing the net and Mick was still trying to pretty himself up, in vain. A week wouldn't have been enough. Into the taxi and off to Eden Park, via the pub of course. There was a good atmosphere in the pub, some good banter and more English fans than I thought there would be, most are with Kiwis as the majority are ex-pats. A few beers and out to pick up a monster burger and it was delicious and just what the doctor ordered before the game and after the beer. I wish I could remember the name of the chain. Into the ground, which isn't big, so is quite choca and a sell out. it's a neat ground with both ends open, not good for NZ weather, but like I have mentioned, they are rufty tufties here. We are in the posh seats, so under cover whimps. The pre-match show was pretty good. Black knights fighting white knights. It looked like a draw to me, if that is possible in a battle. The game was good, I enjoyed it all. We were a bit overwhelmed by the All Blacks to begin with, but the English support was good and the team dug in. Both time they looked like getting hammered they dug deep and held in there. The Kiwi fans are super critical. They were winning by 15 points and booing the team. I was taken aback a bit, or would be if I understood aback. I think the fans are in need of a "don't take it so serious" injection. It has been a good night and we retired to the posh lounge under the stand. Anyone is allowed in, the people on the doors seem to there only to say hello and smile, it was very relaxed and a friendly atmosphere, good Grumpy Old Man material for the stuffy Brit equivalent. The Kiwis take the game very seriously, but before and after the game are very chilled. Perhaps because they expect to win before and afterwards they had. We had a couple in here, then it was off to a pub for a couple more. The social scene in NZ seems good news, friendly and relaxed.
Taxi time, so luckily, I don't have to tackle the hostel heartattack hill. I have had beer overload this weekend, so that should take back a notch on my belt.
The door was still open tonight, so I didn't have to cower before the big Kiwi doorman.
A good day all around. Thanks Mick.

Off around Auckland again.

2008-09-21T03:51:00.000-07:00

13/6 - Up not to brightly and the weather is not so bright either, overcast and mizzle off and on. By the time I'd had my porridge and toast, both me and the weather had brightened, so I set off to go to Mount Eden and ended up in the Domain, a big park in Auckland. Another plan goes array. I left Mount Eden for Sunday. This is the most benchless park I've seen in my life. There's a big old tree full of yellow leaves even though it had shed a lot, this being the winter of Auckland. It looked very pretty and to enhance this even further, I parked my bum underneath it to eat the sausage rolls and custard tart I purchased on the way here. Very nice they were too, so I set my pack down for a pillow and had a read and an unscheduled nap. I was lying there contemplating the world and a loud yelling rose behind me. I glanced up to see a schoolbus full of kids yelling and waving atthe old fella lying under the golden tree, so I waved back and the volume went up a few notches. Sounds like a fairy story, with children, the old fella and a golden tree, but be careful who you are calling a fairy, especially in New Zealand. This strikes me as a place where men are men and fairies are very quiet.

The school bus was like a modernised version of the Vietnamese kids on their bikes, that I experienced with Khien on the Ho Chi Minh trail ride. It gladened my heart and gave me and the kids a big smile. Time to move on in case the police come and lock me up as a vagrant. I headed up the hill, no surprise in Auckland, and out of the park, back to dump my bag, as I'm meeting Mick, my Welsh-Kiwi mate later. With my load lightened, I set off for town. I did a bit of window shopping, but the England shirts were too expensive at $130 ($2 to the pound, roughly).

I'd heard Viaduct Quay is the place to be, so that is where I headed. It is certainly buzzing and looks like the after work drinking and nosh spot. The quay is surrounded by bars and restaurants and the water is full of very expensive boats. This is where the America's cup fraternity base themselves. It is very yuppy-like, in not too bad a way. I elected to go into the Irish bar for my fodder, but they had open fires blazing and it was red hot, so I settled for a Guiness, very nice too and then slipped around the corner to the Thai Chilli, a very good move. I had a green curry, there was lots of it and very tasty too. After stoking the engine, I headed on up the road to meet Mick in the London pub. I was running late, or would have been if I could run. I was only 10 minutes late, the pedestrian crossing here take forever, it's the same in Aus and I'm very impressed at how most people obey them. There was a live band in the pub playing jazz, but we didn't do much listening, I'm ashamed to say. Mick had invited a lass along from work, he was hitting on. We had a good laugh over more beers than I've had for a long while, thank goodness the bar closed at midnight, I'd had enough. Out of practice. I was surprised Mick was ready for the off too, but when I remembered the lady, I wasn't. I had the blooming hill to look forward too, but it flew by. It was good to see an old buddy and have a good natter. Michelle, the lady, is good fun too. When I parted from her and Mick, part way up Queens St. she seemed to be warming to Mick and I certainly warmed when I hit the hostel hill. It was late, so I had to knock up the doorman, in the nicest sense of the phrase, he was a big Kiwi. Then I hit the sack, a happy man.

For Yvonne and anyone else still reading this.

2008-09-20T03:05:00.000-07:00

20/9 - I am currently in Vietnam, with a very nice, young lady. I will be heading back to the UK on 4/11, with Dung, the lady, in tow and then possibly back here in January. Who knows???? Certainly not me.
Thanks for reading this and I'll try to get it finished soon. I lost the bug, but have it back.

And on to NZ

2008-09-20T02:32:00.000-07:00

12/6 - Up with the lark and in enough time for some coco pops, then off ot the airport. It's closer than I thiought, so I went straight to the gate in case I nodded off somewhere, this wandering around Sydney is getting me knackered, plus the hostels are cheap, but when there's a room full of lads, sleep is not as sound as it should be with all the comings and goings, or perhaps I am approaching middle-age. I crashed on the flight, but managed to wake up for food. Perhaps slept would have been a better choice of word than crashed for a flight.
The country around Auckland is very beautiful from the plane, very rugged. The fields are not flat, everyone has a small hillock. It was good to come out of the airport and not get hassled for a taxi, moto or rickshaw. I had a scan around and headed for the mini-bus. 30NZ dollars, seems a bit steep to me, but I'm still not used to the developed country prices. I was dropped at the hostel door, which made me smile, as it is perched ontop of a small, but outrageously steep slope. I need some exercise and it looks like I will get it. Into the hostel and they only had double shared rooms left for $33 a night. I was just about to say OK, when the lady said "I'll give it you for $22", the room that is. This is definitely not Asia. The rooms are getting smaller as I roam the hostels, but still very adequate.
Did a little bit of organising and I'm out to checkout Auckland. Bloody hell, it's hilly. I like Auckland, but I couldn't live here with these hills. Mind you I'd get fit or drop. The people h ere are much friendlier than Sydney and more real. It's more rough and ready, there doesn't seem to be anything fake here. I was sat on a bench, surprisingly, people watching adn a woman came up to the pedestrian crossing with her hands full, so she kneed the button, another whacked it with a water bottle. It's easy to see why the All Blacks play rough. The hostel is in Chinatown, or at least Far East town. There's loads of sushi places, Korean and Chinese restaurants and the people on the streets are mostly of Chinese origin. It's not too warm, definitely jumper and fleece weather, but I soon warm up with my unconventional gait, on the hills.
I checked out the ferry quays, but there's not a lot to see. It's the rush hour and they are busy. It's faster by ferry than road. Auckland and Sydney are similar, in that they are both big natural harbours and this commuting by ferries seems a cool way to commute. Time for a beer me thinks. It's cool, but I found a busy bar, where you can sit outside and there's live music, a lad on the guitar, so my first people watching beer in NZ has a nice feel to it. My kind of town, as somebody once sung. Only the one beer, then stopped for a kebab and rice on the way back. I'm not a sushi man. There are loads of fast food placessss, but not too appealing. It seems you have to eat posh or fast and not much in between, but I've only had a quick look. I headed back to the hostel and turning the corner, I thought I'd need a rope to get up the hill, but I wiggled on up. It did my heart good to see others struggling too.
There's a lad moved in with me, when I got back to the room. He's Argentinian and speaks good English. He's looking for work as an architect. He told me Argentina and NZ have some kind of treaty to make it easy to get work in each others country. How that came about I don't know.
He seems a canny lad and offered to let me use his laptop for email accesss.
Cuppa and an early night. I'll be meeting Mick, an old work colleague tomorrow, so that will probably entail a few beers.

Back to Sydney.

2008-07-29T01:17:00.000-07:00

11/6 - Up, some coco pops, I'm a big kid at heart and loaded up to hit the road to Sydney, which was a mistake, as the ferry takes you there, but I didn't get wet. I caught the bus to the ferry after walking here, I didn't need to prove twice I can knacker myself out. It is not that far, but it is raining again, so I took the bus. It is rush hour and the ferry is well packed out, but I got a seat to check out the view, at the wrong end, I went to the same end as I did coming, but the ferries have to bows, so don't turn around. DOH! This is a good way to commute, I could handle this, it is very relaxing. Bikes are allowed onboard too, but I doubt I could handle the hills of Sydney, it is a very hilly city.
Off the ferry and onto the train to Central again. The public transport in Sydney is better than Manly. The first 2 hostels I tried are choca. "No room for you here Mary." they said, so I guess they were full. The 3rd one didn't mind my wiggly walk and gave me a room, they told me the wrong number though, so they didn't like it that much. After the 3rd key change they twigged the number on my card was wrong. $33 for a bunk in a 4 man room. I never get one of these mixed room, but then with my recognition of lady boys, perhaps it is a good thing.
Dumped my gear and headed for the Vietnamese consulate to pick up my visa. The bloke here is a top bloke, really helpful. I changed the dates and was expecting a revisit. He said is 15 minutes OK. Headed back to town for a beer and some nosh. Went to a Vietnamese place, as I'd already been to the consulate. It was a damn site better than Pizza Hut and even more so than my cooking. Headed back for a brew whilst sitting on the balcony. Sounds posher than it was, but it was good and relaxing. Hit the sack for an early start in the morning to New Zealand.

Man in Manly.

2008-07-29T00:04:00.000-07:00

9/6 - I've bought myself some cereal, milk and bread to try and block the hole that has developed in my natty pink purse. The money is either dropping out or dissolving inside it. Did a bit on the internet, then went for a wander down the beach to watch the surfers. They are keen. I haven't checked out the water, but I'm cold out of it. Edged my way along the beach prom, bench by bench and had fish and chips on the prom, how cool is that. Just like being on holiday. I wandered back the other way and sat to watch a bit of beach volleyball (Yes there were some women playing), but that is not why I stopped. I wish there had been 3 understanding people wit me, I'd love to have a game. I fielded one of the loose balls and nearly took a lads head off when I served it back to the court, so perhaps it is just as well there are not 3 understanding people. It looks good fun though. There was a surfing competition on or a show. I'm not sure which. It was very clever though, good to watch. There were tandem surfers, where a couple do lifts and movements on the board, bloody show offs. It was good to see.
The Aussies have a days holiday for the Queen's birthday. How does that work? They don't want her, but get a holiday and we don't get one. Sounds like a good rouse to me. The rain chased me off the beach, so I went shopping. I decided I'd cook my tea tonight. I haven't cooked for 5 months and I should have kept it that way. It was crap. I read a bit to hope some of the tosh I served myself digested then hit the sack after a lazy wandering day in Manly.

10/6 - I slept in until 9.30, the first time for a long time. I woke up in the night feeling shite, I definitely should not have cooked. I'm good now though. I did a bit of dhobi and had breakfast, then hit the local shopping Mall. Big mistake. Zero haircut and my photos put on a DVD, 25 quid. I nearly fainted. Get me out of here. I did some wingeing to myself. I have stopped asking how much everytime I buy something. I thought that was the Asian way. I thought wrong. I will ask in future before I buy. I did a bit more shopping. I have had to give in to the onset of hypothermia and buy a jumper. It's a tadge cold and the digs are even colder. It was in a sale and not too bad, so I didn't need the smelling salts again.
I decided to hit the prom for the sunset. There are only a few surfers out now, but they turn up for the last few minutes light, they must carry their surfboards in the car, like I carried my golf clubs, always. There is only 1 volleyball game on the go. It's nice down here though. I like Manly. The Aussies get their moneys worth when they build a prom. The foot traffic is non-stop, all ages, sizes and speeds, me bringing up the rear. Tonights top users are Mams with buggies. They chog along in groups giving it 20 to the dozen chatting. The surfing bug is definitely like the golf bug, they are still turning up at last light. Time for a beer I reckon. A pint of Guiness, 3 quid, just like back home. Headed for the digs after the beer and found the real Manly, lots of pubs and surf shops, it's not a bad little place. I could live here. Yet another place in the world that is Gil friendly, so if your name is Gil, hit the road for Manly.
Not having learned my lesson last night, I cooked tea again tonight. It was a better effort than last night. I did a bit of surfing looking for cheap flights. Dan, the English bloke staying here tipped me off to Tiger airways and that Air Asia fly out of the smaller airports in Australia. These 2 don't come up with the search engines. I think Dan has given up on the Papua New Guinea trip.
A bit of box watching and bed again. It's a hard life.

Lazy day in Sydney.

2008-07-05T22:58:00.000-07:00

7/6 - I struggled out of bed this morning. I'm not used to these soft matresses. Had some breakfast at the hostel and decided to do some dhobi, even thought the sun is shining. Some of my clothes got ironed for the first time in months. It made me realise how badly stained my whites are. They look like I've been paint balling in them. I'd better get my hand in my pocket and get some fresh, non-white ones. I'm loath to ditch my "Red and White Stripes" T=shirt, but it is a mess. I might buy some stain remover at the next wash and see if I can revive it.

Out and about, heading in the opposite direction to yesterday. I had a plan until I remembered the Blues/Jazz festival., so change of plan to no specific plan. THe first part of the plan came off, I found Victoria park and sat in the sun to write up the blog, butthe sun is going down now, so I'm off to find the train station and perhaps a beer before the Blues fest. I pulled over after a quick visit aroud a market that looks to be a one off thing. Lots of home made stuff and hippie gear. I never bought any, I'll stick with my paint balling gear. Next pull over was a bar for a beer, then into town by train for the music. How about that for a plan working??? They were dismantling a set when I got to the fest, so I nipped off for some food, then came back. It was closed up, it must have beeen an afternoon affair. How about that for a plan working??? I guess that's it for today. I went back to pack and chill and this plan did work. When I left the hostel this morning, I had the 6 man room to myself. When I got back tonight all the beds were taken, but nobody in them. During the night there were 8 of us. Don't ask me!!! 2 lads tunred up at 5 a.m., went back out for a while, came back, picked up their bags and left. THey never slept in their beds. Perhaps they did someone else's. When they left a lad on the floor got up and climbed on to one of the beds. It made me smile to remember such times, when I was a jack the lad. Jack the lad in the best possible taste of course. "Good young Gil, he's the quiet one." They used to say. IT'S TRUE, ask Eddie. Anyway the day has moved on.

8/6 - I got up early, but the young lads never budged. THe old fella with the ear plugs and blanket over his head wasn't too happy. Loaded up my gear and off to the train, to the ferry, to Manly. The Sydney transport seems really good. Today it's misty and raining, so there's a cloud hovering over the top of the Sydney bridge. The ferry to Manly was not as exciting as I thought it would be, but it was raining. Sydney is hell of a harbour though. It makes Liverpool lok like a Dinky toy. Off the ferry and decided to test the legs and walk to a guesthouse, about 2 thirds of the way there I was thinking again, but I don't know why, it was easy and I wasn't dripping in sweat, like in Asia, only good old cold rain. I've got a room this time for 20 quid. It wont make the AA guide and probably only just the Alcoholic's Anonymous guide, but it is cosy. I took a stroll to the beach and the srufers are like ants on the water, all in wetsuits, it is cold. I'll come back here tomorrow. I'm off to see Manly rugby league team play the top of the table Sydney Roostersf. Catching the bus is hard work. I think you have to lie in the road to make them stop. None of this cram them in, move up, let these people in. It's follow the Nanny state rules on numbers and no more. The 3rd bus stopped. At the ground, it was easy to get a ticket. I was a bit surprised with it being the top of the table clash and only 13 quid, cheaper than the UK, by a long way and for a top match.. The ground is nowhere near gull AND there's only 24 minutes left on the clock when I get in, luckily it was for the U-20's game. I did initially flap a bit. The ground layout is good, 2 sides are stands and 2 hills, where you can park your bum until the match starts, then it is stand or miss it. I was surprised how small the crowd is, 18,000 +. The UK crowds are better by far. Iwas also surprised how crap the top of the table were, but they had 4 players away at the State of Origin games.. I was very surprised at the beer consumed. You couldn't see the ground for cans after the match. It was agood atmosphere, but the game was a bit one sided, 42-0. I mowzied on down the road looking for a bus stop and found a pub instead, those are the breaks folks. They had the match on the screens. From the cheering you'd think all the people hadn't been to the match and it was being shown live. They get into their port. It's all good fun though. Rooster and Eagles fans were mixed in the ground, no segragation necessary. I had a beer and then went to catch the bus. I'd have more chance of catching a great white down this road. It's abysmal. If I ever move to Aus, I'm going to live in Not In Service because most of the buses run there and they are all empty. Eventually my lottery ticket came up and I got a bus. There was a lot of well oiled banter going on. I keptout of it for a change. Off the bus and into a pizza restaurant over the road from the digs. I read a poster saying that anyone serving someone who is drunk is liable to prosecution. WHAT'S THAT ALL ABOUT GRANDAD????
That is serious Nanny State stuff. I am gobsmacked, almost speechless, which is a very big lie.
This is prime Grumpy old man stuff, but I decided to chill and ordered a carafe of wine to laugh into, then thought better of laughing in case they took it off me because I was drunk. "I don't believe it" as that well known grumpy old man said.
The wine was good and I was half cut, at least. I haven't had that much to drink for a while now.
I enjoyed the pizza too, but then with a carafe of wine, there is not much I wouldn't enjoy.
Sometimes I get to feeling sorry for myself. I know I should know better and sometimes I need a reminder of how lucky I am. A lad came in while I was eating, he was mid 20's and had a walking stick. It took hime a good w hile to walk across the restaurant, he didn't look well, but he just put his head down and made his way in his own way. It was a timely reminder for me. I hope I don't forget it too soon. The wine polished off, I headed for the guesthouse. I wasn't sure which of the 2 was the right one, so I took the one that wasn't moving so much. There's a Brit lad who has been staying here 4 months. He's working here at the moment, but has real wonder lust. He was planning a trip to Papua New Guinea, but is having second thoughts after finding it is one of the worst crime spots in the world in the town of Port Moresby. It says on the web not to go out after dark and to stay in your room during the day . That doesn't leave a lot of scope.
I left him to it and hit the sack. A pleasant day in Manly done.

On the streets again, I'm a right old slapper.

2008-07-02T00:43:00.001-07:00

6/6 - Up sharp, breakfast and walking the streets touting for gigalo business. Surprisingly, no joy!! The big cities are not friendly places. There's no Hello's and big smiles, well, there was one. She laughed at my touting. I miandered in the direction of I know not where and found Paddy Market, a tourist tatt place in an old building. Strangely enough full of tourists and one gigalo. Bought nowt and kept miandering, passed the Powerhouse museum, it was shut, so I continued over a bridge and down to Darling Harbour. This is a real yuppy place with big big yachts and bistros with big, big glasses, so I'm right at home. Now watch me gigalo. There's a Blues/Jazz festival starting tomorrow, so I"ll stay another night and check it out. I was going to head over to Manly and get a ticket for the rugby on SUnday, but I'll chance my arm and go on Sunday. The lad at reception said I should be OK to pick up a ticket at the gate. As I walked along Darling Harbour the bistros transformed into museums and aquarium and I-Max with lots of school kids buzzing around and making me smile. Darling harbour is partly what I expected, but mstly not. I expected an old place, it's still a good place to stroll. I headed for the Botanical gardens next, I hope. I did a bit of shopping along the way, as I passed Gucci, Prada, Chanel, Cartier etc. Window shopping that is. I did a bit of artful dodging as I passed the Law courts in fear ofmy sisters wrath, not the judges strolling by in their wigs, what's that all about Grandad. Then I did a bit of plonking on a bench at the top of Hyde park. It's nice around here, very Victorian like. Lots of old buildings, so long as I don't look over my shoulder to the law courts. I think I'd get asked to leave a city if I stayed over a week for fear of wearing out the cities benches. I have lost count of how many benches I've shined today. This is a nice part of town, a good people watching spot too.
I bought some tangerine/clementines/satsuma/orange things and headed for the gardens, passing a barracks museum, several registeries and a couple of libraries on my side of the road, all very olde worlde and skyscrapers on the other side of the road, very contrasting. The old knee is giving some grief, it must be the damp and cold. I popped a couple of paracetamols, well, I hope they were, I'm floating through the botanical gardens now. This is a lovely place to stroll lots of open grass, big old fig trees that look perfect for a bit of tree hugging, if you haven't treid it you should, lots of cockatoos toos, lots of all sorts, but still no gigalo business. There is a small rose garden, that I smelled before I saw, it is one of my favourite smells, roses. I got my first glance of the Harbour bridge, since arriving and then the top of the Opera house. I spotted a nice bench, near the Government building, still in the gardensssss, so I couldn't resist it and nodded off for a few seconds, the sun went down quick. Only jesting. I think I am more tired than I realised, mind you I have been up hill and down dale bench hopping for about 4 hours, not to mention window shopping. You can tell it's lunch time, the jolly joggers are everywhere. This is a prime spot for it. I rolled on down to the harbour, passing several joggers, I might add, going in the opposite direction. I found an irreststible bench overlooking the harbour, so watched the joggers rush hour while I ate an orange thing. And so to the Opera House. It is a magnificent building. It's a bit weird close up, sort of not very posh tiles, but still magnificent and the steps up to it are great, shallow and long. I don't need the bannister and ALMOST look normal going up them. THat is something I've noticed, I don't get the constant stares at my gait, as in S.E. Asia. People look, but not so many and not so obviously. It's a n ice change.
Strolled around the Opera House, then sat on the lovely steps for some nuts and an orange thingy to show my step appreciation. Onward but not too far, at last I've found what I've been looking for a few hours now, a toilet. I've been dying for a wazz. Now I can have a brew and a very nice sausage roll. The last time I hada asausage roll was with Paige. This cafe is below the Opera house and looks out onto the Harbour Bridge. I sat and scrutinised the walkers going up to the top. I think I may be able to do that, I'll have a think. On again, around the Circular Quay. This is my favourite part of Sydney, that I've seen. There's the bridge, the OPera House and ferries coming and going. I checked out the Manly ferry for when I leave on Sunday. Every 30 minutes, $6, can't be bad. Out onto the streets from the Quay. I've given up touting, so headed for the hill to the Rocks. I like this part of town. Lots of pubs and old harbour buildings. I was close to the Harbour Bridge now, so perched on a bench and watched the walkers. It is steeper than I thought, but I reckon it's a go. Not this time though, next time I'm in Sydney. The knees throbbing now, it needs some sunshine, or perhaps a Guiness and low ad behold there's a pub with some seats outside. The beer in Sydney is sold in schooners, less than a pint and just about right. I got a table of looks here, as I did my John Wayne roll up the hill. The pub is opposite an old ware house type of building and when I sat I noticed the tennant is Saachi and Saachi. I thought they were bosh not refurbished warehouse material. What do I know?
I enjoyed the Guiness, the knee is much better now, so I rolled down the hill to catch the train back to Central, without stopping at any passing benches, the arse of my jeans is getting a bit threadbare. A quick e-fix back at the hostel and then a power nap. I'm nearly caught up on the kip now. I was going to stroll into town for some snap, but when I walked outside I noticed the cafe attached to the hostel is doing what looks like decent nosh. I must have made a bad choice, but it filled the hole. The brew was smashing. Decided to give the booze a miss and did some research on swimming with the whale sharks at Ningaloo reef. It's very expensive, but there may be mantas there too. I think this has to be done, although it is coming to the end of the whale shark season and I am off to NZ for the rugby first. A brew and a natter with one of the lads in the dorm, Kevin, he is a bit weird, but nice enough. He probably thinks the same about me.
BED.

And so to Aus.

2008-07-02T00:21:00.000-07:00

5/6 - Got myself a SIM at the airport. It is a smashing airport, simple, easy and all very neat. Everything is obvious. Immigration took a while, but my electronic visa came good and it meant my bag was there and waiting, dizzy on the carousel. I hit the ATM and it told me to sod off. The Grumpy old man told me to keep my head, it is only the computerised bank showing no common sense again and blocking my card. It makes me angry to think they can't be arsed to think for themselves and check before letting the computer do what it wants. Never mind, my credit card came good. I'll sort Barclays out later. Time for the train to town. Into Sydney, out of Central Station and into a cafe. Registered my SIM and phoned our Bec in Canberra. She sounds in good fettle, but she did have a quick bitch about subject not to be told, in case Liam's Mam find her way to my blog. Had a brew and phoned a couple of hostel, to make sure I wasn't hiking around the streets for nothing. Loaded up and walked over the road from the station and there's a hostel. This will do, sack walking, next to the station, 17 quid a night for a dorm bed, it'll do. It was a bit of a REALITY check, back to the burn money world of 2 quid cups of tea. I have been Asia brainwashed. This is going to be expensive. Dumped my gear, loved the hot shower and hit the streets before I had chance to lie down and crash. It's like being back home, cold and wet. I'm going to have to buy a jumper. People wise, Sydney is a lot like London, 50 % non English speaking and mostly foreign looking with local accents. It's probably more th an 50%, but I'm, in Chinatown. I didn't know that until I passed the first 50 Chinese restaurants and 10,000 Chinese looking people, that was in about 400 yds of the hostel. The hostel, Central Hostel, has everything, is clean, but a bit pricey, just for a dorm bed. I could get a good hotel room for that over the past 4 months. STOP WHINGING YOU TIGHT GIT. You are starting to sound like Dickie. I decided to sort out my Vietnamese visa, I'm going back. Why? Work it out yourself. I hopped onto a train and bingo I'm at the consulate. Being by Central Station is a bonus. I went for broke and asked for a 6 month visa. THe lady said "No way." The bloke said " No problem Gil, how's the family? Keano's doing a good job, isn't he?" Ha Ha to the lady, Mackem power rules. He never really said that, I just got a bit carried away, but he is a really helpful bloke. The lady did say that. Headed back to Central and as I am supposed to be gaining weight went to Pizza Hut. I have been looking forward to a good pizza, so why did I go to Pizza Hut. DOH!!
It was 10 quid all you can eat, but it was shi@#$@#@ said that Grumpy bloke again, so I went for a beer to commiserate. My eyes were starting to droop, so I resisted a second beer and headed for bed, via the internet, if you know what I mean. It's been a long but full old day. Sydney is so far so good, but bloody cold.

Working the streets of Bangkok.

2008-07-01T23:49:00.000-07:00

2/6 - Still a bit knackered, but breakfast put me right, probably because it was included in the price. Then I hit the streets. It's a tadge hot, so I went into a few malls, but the A/C sets my cold off, what a whimp, so I ducked and dived alnot the way, in and out of malls. This is shoppers heaven, similar to KL, crap for men. I gave up in the end and went for a coffee and a cake. It's a busy city, constant traffic and very modern. THe pavements are in a shocking state, but a lot of them have walkways above them and the Skytrain above those. It's a typical big city, so what am I doing here. Just passing through. I headed back to freshen up, as they say, then headed to Lambini park. THis is a laugh. There are hundreds of people doing aerobics to several different leaders and music. A complete mix of people too. There's a lot of other exercises going on too. It's like an open air gym and a great idea and setting, if the weather permits. I plonked on a bench to watch and was joined by a fella to practice his English. Sound familiar? I got hit for a quid. I couldn't be arsed to go through the multiple refusals, so I paid him off to get shut of him. A monitor lizard came swimming passed, but it's English must have been good enough as it didn't stop. Back towards the Wendy House and some snap. Ordered a spicey dish, the woman warned me, but I'm hard, so hard I had to order a second plate of rice to finish it, then it was beer and bed.
3/6 - Noodles for breakfst then off for a wander. I checked out the cheap markets with the copy designer stuff and then went to yet more shopping centres. I don't know why I rarely buy anything. I can't walk far enough to get out of the shops. My Asianmanbirdflu has got me a bit crocked too, so I'm not at full power. I think I need a week off this holiday lark. I wandered until I was knackered and stopped for an ice coffee and a couple of doughnuts in Dunkin Doughnuts, it's that kind of city, it has all the fast food chains and then the Thai eateries and food stalls. The coffee didn't rejuvinate me, so I wandered a bit more, then jumped on a moto back to the hotel for a kip. The moto driver was on some kind of commission I think, we broke the sound barrier twice and it was only a couple of miles. Refreshed, I hit the town again, well, I walked down the road for chicken ginger and a beer. A South African in there got talking to me. WHat a funny lad and not funny ha ha either. He was after going for a beer, but I ducked out. I think he was South Africas version of me, very opinionated, but not is such a nice way as me. (No comments from the family). I wandered back to the hotel for a beer and an early night, which didn't happen, I sat people watching and time drifted by.
4/6 - Off to Aus today, that should keep Yvonne happy. I've been really looking forward to going to Australia. I'm not flying u ntil this evening, so did some e-stuff, had some lunch then headed for the airport. I took a taxi for the easy life. I checked the meter at 197 Baht, when I got out, but asked the price. 800 Baht!!! He went a bit sheepish when I mentioned the meter. No wonder taxi drivers have a bad name. I'm early, but checked in, just in case there is something wrong with my electronic Aus visa. That's what 4 months backpacking in Asia does for you. All went well and I went through for some more food. I'm under orders to gain weight, which I don't think will be a problem when I get to Aus. More looking at stuff that I'm not going to buy. The airport is typically Bangkok, full of shops. I have not really done Bangkok justice. From what little I have seen, I like the place more than I thought I would. I was told 2 days is enough, by several people, but I think 4 or 5 are needed especially at my pace. THere was plenty I wanted to see, the the manflu put the mockers on it. The flight is delayed an hour, but now I am an expert waiter it is no problem. It's a jumbo, so there are a loads of people around. I am going to try to not watch more than 1 film. I usually end up getting no kip and knackered at the other end. I watched 2 and then nodded off. I was reclined when I woke up, so the Qantas people must have put me back, I never noticed.

On to An Bing and off to Bangkok.

2008-06-30T22:06:00.000-07:00

30, 31/5 - This new place is smashing, in amongst the dykes and greenery, I just don't know where amongst them. This is not a huge island, but it is a maze. Vietnamese breakfast and lovely, then took a bike out for a slow miander. I stopped at the internet, but it was a waste of time, between leaving the digs and the internet shop, the island power is off, so a short miander and back to the hammock then lunch. More good food, but too much. The power came back, so nipped along to the internet place then believe it or not I dossed until dinner time. Too much food again.
Next day, the penulitmate one in Vietnam/Asia. I don't really want to head off, especially to Bangkok, but it may be a good thing for a while. We'll see.
Breakfast and out on the bike again. I've been feeling a bit gimpy, but the bike put me right. A good old sweat sorts lots of things out. It was good to be on the bike wandering and collecting the Hellos and smiles. I hope it sees this cold off too. Back for a shower and a laze in the hammock. It seems to cure the cold, well, that's my excuse and I'm sticking to it. Sadly packed some gear. More food, fresh spring rolls, the roll them yourself kind. They are very tasty, but I am not a dab hand at rolling them. The family that own this place are smashing. The 2 daughters speak a bit of English, but the rest of the people don't. We still get along famously. They are really friendly. I asked if they did laundry and they pointed to the bowl. I thought they meant get stuck in, but when I went to it, the father donned his marigolds and took over laughing.
Dung and Anh Bai have sorted out transport to HCM for tomorrow. I got offered a bus at 04.00 or 10.00. Guess which one I took.
Off to bed for the last time in Asia.
Up for breakfast, noodles, sticky rice cake and fruit. The arrangements to get to HCM are not as I thought last night, after a word with the daughter. I have to get a moto to the bus company back in Vinh Long then a bus to HCM. Sometimes I think the Vietnamese don't understand each other. I can chose my own moto time, so I got myself sorted and left for Vinh Long. I have really enjoyed staying here. It is a relaxing place. The moto turns up on time and is to take me to the bus station. I have been told buses don't run to HCM from the station, but we're on our way. The buses don't run from the bus station, I got dropped at a shop in town, but it did the job. Nearly everytime I travel in Vietnam it is different to arrange. The buses run hourly, but I only had to wait 10 minutes for the next one. They are definitely designed for Vietnamese stature. There was some chuckling when I was coaxing myself to the back seat. I was glad when we stopped so I could unwind my legs. I was sat next to a nice couple and their kid. The lady did her best to strike up a conversation with me and was very impressed I knew about 20 words of Vietnamese, so much so, she asked if I had a Vietnamese girlfriend. You can't put one passed women and the Vietnamese don't beat about the bush. I got the 20 questions again. After that I intorduced the kid to "round and round the garden like a teddy bear" and " this little piggy" which impressed the parents as much as the kid. I was offered food along the way, as usual. They are a friendly people. Not only do the buses to HCM from Vinh Long not go from the bus station, this one does not drop you at a bus station either. It is at the company office somewhere in HCM. WHere? I don't have a clue. However there are always moto men or taxis lurking, well nearly always, today is a first, NOTHING so I set off down the road to nowhere in particular, when I'd loaded up. I 0nly did about 50 metres and a taxi slowd up. I had no idea where I was in this sprawling city, but it wasnt too far from the airport, the fare was cheap.
I havent been looking forward to Bangkok, but now I am here. The ATM rejected my first card, but the 2nd got me the taxi fare. I got done there too, but only a quid or so. I agreed a price, but they should go on the metre, I later read. I wonder if I'll ever learn. Straight to the hotel, even though I only had the address. How could I forget a name like "The Wendy House"? It's OK too and I'm beat, so had a brew and hit the sack. WHilst I was sorting a room out in reception an Aussie lad and lass walk in " Hello Mate". I'd stayed at the same place as them in Kep, Cambodia. Unbelievable? Obviously not. They were off to Northern Thailand to do a bit of plumbing on an elephant place. This is the couple who have left Australia with not timetable, just going with the flow. We had a good natter then I got that brew.

On the move across the Mekong.

2008-06-25T23:26:00.000-07:00

29/5 - Up and at 'em. Well up, I dossed in the room for a while, did a few exercises, few being the main word here, then fell asleep again. I must have been tired. Dung woke me to tell me she had booked me into another place on An Binh, an island on the Mekong and is on her way to pick me up. Panic shower and pack and we're on her friends moto and off to an island in the Mekong. It sounds very romantic, an island in the Mekong, but I'm not so sure it matches up to Phu Quoc. It is a smashing island though and big, this Mekong is huge. There is a 2nd ferry to An Binh, which I didn't know about, so it shows how big it is, or stupid I am. No postcards to Mick this time. The place I am booked into is smashing. Dinner bed and breakfast for $11 dollars. It sounds too good to be true. I'll let you know. I wish I had known about it earlier. I am getting well looked after. This place has loads of bikes, so I hired one and went for an explore. It's a tadge hot, but nice when the breeze hits. THe island is a maze of roads and rivers and somehow I ended up at the other ferry. I'd stopped along the way for Nuoc mia, sugar cane drink, and was hassled by a few kids for money, no problem, no money. Almost everyone who went passed as I sat drinking, smiled and quipped to the owner of the place. I was going to try and weave my way back down some bak paths and alleys, but thank heavens common sense kicked in and I went back the way I had come, this time stopping for tra da. I picked a bit more secluded seat this time but still drew curiosity.. It's still blistering hot, so I plodded back slowly. I don't make it over many bridges, but most people stop and get off. There's a neat little village around one of the bridges. It looks very poor, but has a very posh church. If I wasn't melting I'd have a look around. I've spotted an internet place in the middle of nowhere, so may call back tomorrow. Back at the ranch, I sat in the breeze to try and dry off before plonking in one of the many hammocks and when I did plonk, I crashed. It is becoming a pasttime. Shower and another swing in the hammock before dinner. The dinner was a banquet. Whole fish, prawns, pork, chicken, spring rolls. I had to tell them half portions tomorrow, it was outrageous and delicious, so much soit was back to the hammock with a beer and blow me if I didn't nod off again. I cant shake this cold off, so have been ordered to rest up tomorrow. I think I can probably manage that.

Still walking the streets of Vinh Long.

2008-06-25T00:39:00.000-07:00

26/5 - I didn't fancy hot breakfast or bread today, so strolled to the market to pick up a pineapple. The market is about 50 metres from the hotel and now spills over to outside the hotel. I strolled on to a cafe that has a good people watching spec, to have a tra da, iced tea. I passed Dan the American from the other day along the way. He was sat on a bench reading a paper, outside his in-laws I guess. I said Hello and he blanked me, tried again and his head twitched. Strange, I thought. Never one to be put off, I stopped and tried to got an "Oh Hello", then back to his paper. He must have thought I was after his lottery money. A very strange going on, but never mind, better off out of that one. Off for my tra da. The cafe was peaceful, hen students started turning up for a drink, some park their motos out the back. THey sit for quite a while, in fact longer than me. I left them and went for an e-fix. There was a lot of flirting going on, I felt a bit out of placeand even more so when I spilled my tra da dregs as I got up. Wandered back for a midday kip after the e-fix, dont slag me off, I'm getting up at 5.00, well waking up then. I'm getting into S.E. Asia mode, about late considering I leave in a week or so. Up and out for a wake up stroll and bumped into the lottery lad. I offered to buy him a drink, but I think he just likes to say hello, sit a while and field all the comments from the locals about his pet Englishman. I bought a couple of baguettes and headed back to the balcony with a beer. Half way through the 2nd baguette, the crown on my front tooth dropped out. Now I am a real bonny lad, a proper ladykiller if I ever saw one. It did make me laugh when I looked in the mirror. It could scare the touts away too, but I doubt it.

27/5 - Early rise a bit of exercising, not much. I am doing a bit and feeling better for it. I just lack the discipline to keep it up. Down to reception to scare them withmy new style smile. The lady gave me directions to the dentist, but I know better regarding me and directions, so I took a moto for 20p. I'm first in the queue, but an hour early, the receptionist at the hotel was wrong, he opens at 8.00 not 7.00. I did a bit of log writing, I'm an expert waiter nowadays. When I got in the dentist smiled at the broken crown, then got to work. A new post, a bit of grinding, some glue and Bob's your uncle, less than a fiver. No wonder UK dentists are rich. It cost me over 100 quid for almost the same in the UK and it still dropped out. Keep checking the blog for how long this one lasts. The holiday insurance is a bit of a joke. I have to pay the first so many pounds, but it never gets passed that in Asia. I am happy at that though, I don't want any big hospital bills.
Back along the riverfront, picking up a nuoc mia, sugar cane drink, then plonking on a shady bench, watching the Mekong flow by and the boats busling along, al sizes, carrying all sorts. Ony my way back to the hotel Mr Trung spotted me. I met Dung through him. I managed to duck the English lesson for today, but have a 7.00 am appointment at the cafe, tomorrow. Did a bit of this and that and nothing much, had a wander around and back for some kip.

28/5 - Up for some early market snap, pork and noodles, before meeting Mr Trung and Mr Phuc. It's a bit of a struggle trying to converse, so I didn't try too hard, then Mr Linh came along. Trung and Phuc, sit here for 3 hours a day. It's relaxing, but 3 hours is a killer, so I excused myself after 2 before they hatched any plans for the rest of my day. I did some e-stuff, then had a kip. I've picked up manasianbird flu on Phu Quoc, so you can imagine how sorry I'm feeling for myself, hence the kip. It's actually just a bit of a sniffle, I'm just lazy. I've been trying to eat 3 meals a day and put some weight back on, but it is hard work trying to eat 3 meals a day in this heat. I wandered a bit more and watched the rush hour, it's prime time viewing, then I had a meal, I ordered Bo luc lac, all I know is that it is beef. This is a return visit to t his restaurant, they are very friendly and the Bo luc lac is very nice. I can tell you now it is fried diced beef with rice and salad. I headed forome yet again, stopping to watch the sunset by the river. I'm on a date tonight, so I'd better shower, not doing so cuts down on the touts, but I doubt it is good for a date. We went up to the Mekong bridge and pulled over. It is beautiful up here. It's a main highway, but loads of couples pull over for a romantic moment, in fact so many that there are street endores pu here. It was too cold to hang about, the wind whistles by up here. Back to town for some more beef, Pho Bo, beef soup and more, then I got dropped at the hotel. It was pointed out that it is very noisy here and she's right, so a plan is hatched to move me to An Binh, a nearby island, but it floundered when the hotel was full.

More market snap.

2008-06-22T00:03:00.000-07:00

25/5 - Another day strolling, e-fixing and dossing. Got myself some very slippery noodles on the market for breakfast, but watched the locals to find out how to eat them with chopsticks, I eventually got them from my bowl to my chops, instead of the table. There are free top ups on the broth too. I guess this is where the Yanks got the free drinks top up idea from. The ice tea on this stall was a bit naff.
I checked out the meat market. It looks pretty good, no refrigeration, but the meat looks good and fresh. It was probably killed this morning. I picked up some chom chom/rambutan and went off to eat it in the shade by the river. 2 young girls came to say hello, selling lottery tickets, quickly followed by 3 lads. Why is it nealry always the lads who are th buggers? Surely I wasn't like that! There was some language tuition, in both directions, the inevitable ask for money, again from the lads. Eventually they moved on, so I headed off along the river. I've been trying to get into the 3 meals a day routine of the Vietnamese, but when it is hot I never feel like eating. The meals are not huge, like in the UK, so 3 meals is about right. I bumped into one of the lottery lads twice more as I wandered. I think he looks upon me as his pet Englishman. A bit more wandering and eating and back to the hotel to listen to the karaoke. Some really are brave to get up and sing wlith the voices they have. If I ever get cajoled into it, I'll do the Lee Marvin version of Wandering Star. You don't know it???? I bet Mr Google does.

Back in Vinh Long.

2008-06-21T23:37:00.000-07:00

24/5 - Nipped out the hotel and did a sharp left hoping to avoid Mr Trung, an old English practicer. He has coffee in the cafe over the road for 3 hours everyday. It was a good move, I stumbled into the food stalls on the market, so I had rice and something, it was good and the iced tea was too. It causes some looks when I wander into these places, I must be more good looking than I thought. The stools are not built for tall lads, but I'm getting used to them, I haven't fallen off one yet, but that will have put the mockers on that. I'll let you know. Moved on to the internet for a while , then a wander and a good old sweat, no wonder I have lost weight. An American lad beckoned me over as I strolled , he wanted to talk to an English speaker. He is married to a lass from Vinh Long and over trying to get har back to the States. They have been married a year and he reckons another 3 months should see her across there. The problem is at the States end . He says if people enter illegally they get looked after, but try to get somwone in legally and it is a different matter. At this point the Grumpy old man ranted about it being similar in another country. Dan, the American, won the lottery in the States last year and gets $1000 a week for the rest of his life. I could handle that, I wouldn't bother working again. He left to go back to his Vietnamese family after showing me the video of the wedding on his mobile. After a bit more of a sit, I went to the internet again . When I went to pay, Dan had paid, but I don't think he knew.
I found out Hull are in the Premier League, that was a shock and Dony play Leeds for a Championship place. That could cause some banter at Dickie's with Matthew. I headed back for a shower, its red hot, then went out in the heat again. How stupid am I? Answers on a postcard to our Mick again.
This town is bigger than I thought, which seems to be the case everywehere I go if I stay long enough to get a good look around.
Back for shower number 3, some early snap and a wander, turning lots of heads again with my beauty, or it could be my walk. I checked out the supermarket and bought a chocolate fix and then sat outside at the cafe chatting to the lottery sellers. It was the usual 20 questions and a laugh. Then back to the noisy hotel. It is never quiet outside this place, just varying levels of noise.

Phu Quoc again.

2008-06-21T23:31:00.000-07:00

19/5 - 23/5 This is a short version of Phu Quoc. I even won a raffle to take a lady, but there were only 2 tickets and I had them both. It was all sex, drugs and rock and roll, but I had nothing to do with any of it.
Suffice to say, I had a great chill time and the people at the resort remembered me, even though I didn't stay there last time and made a big fuss of us both.
Perhaps I will get the sex, drugs and rock and roll if I go again.
It was very nice to have a lovely lady on my arm for a few days. I knew it was worthwhile carting that super glue around.
Back to Vinh Long to spend some more time on the Mekong and see what happens.

Shuffling around Vinh Long.

2008-06-14T18:23:00.000-07:00

18/5 - Up for a bit of snap at the temporary corner stall, rice and pork, I hope and some lovely Vietnamese tea. I have great difficulty getting tea. Geardie sounding tja must be different to Vietnamese tja. Back to the hotel and shipped out, treated myself to a posh one. It's only $20 a night and only for 1 night, so it shouldn't break the bank. I'm off to Phu Quoc in the morning. The room has a good view of the Mekong too and a balcony, so I can get my washing dried completely.
Did a bit of interneting and sorted out for tomorrow and then crashed for a power nap, it's sweltering. I headed out to see the sun go down over the Mekong and for a change wandered aimlessly. I'd sunburned my bottom lip, pouting on the motorbike, so I went to get some lip balm from the chemist. It's hard to believe, but I didn't know Vietnamese for lip balm, but I flashed my cracked lip and the lady gave me a little pink tube. It looks the part. A quick coffee and an early night. The lip balm tasted a bit bunny, but was nice and smooth. I checked it out in the hotel. It's the last time I taste anti-wrinkle cream. I found it funny until I thought there may be a hidden message in the sale. The condoms were OK though, (Sue, that loud crash was our Val falling off her stool as she read this, go and pick her up please.) or so the lad who borrowed them told me, not that I wanted them back, you understand.

On the road and in the air to Vinh Long.

2008-06-14T17:47:00.000-07:00

17/5 - As I couldn't get the early flight, there's no rush to get up, but I did. What to do for breakfast? No problem, I did a left out of the hotel, 50 metres down the road, 2 women sat at their mobile stall shouted me over. What the hell, I'll try it.
"Meat?"
"Yes" then noodles and anything goes. One of them started ot m other me and was throwing all sorts in my bowl and the other I had to stop filling it up. This was another good laugh and offer of marriage, after I'd managed to field some of the 20 questions. A light hearted offer I might add. I was gently coerced into some lottery tickets, as other women drifted in and out to checkout the foreigner stuck on the 1 foot high stool eating noodles with chopsticks. One of the women was 40 and the other 60, but they looked better on it than I do. I left with more smiles in my locker and back to the hotel for an e-fix. I didn't get much of one though, the receptionist came over and spotted a picture of Benjamin on my memory stick and that was the start of "This is your life Gil Brooks." Benjamin and Paige are always big hits. The taxi for the airport turned up as we were still scanning my photos. The breakfast ladies had been gossiping, because the lass knew where I'd been for breakfast. She was intrigued by my extra special shoulders and was checking them out. almost giving me a massage, she did ask about them first. The Vietnamese are lovely people on the whole. Another big smile and wave for my locker and I'm off to Danang airport. Nothing much to report here, it all went pretty well. I was booked with Vietnam airlines and the plane was China airlines, so I guess there is some kind of partnership thre. Into HCMC airport and got offered a taxi to the bus station for 200,000 dong, but I followed the LP and took a metered taxi, 230,000. 54 years old and I still don't learn.
Onto the bus and headed for Vinh Long, another big bus, the 2nd time in Vietnam. I reminded the driver I was only going to Vinh Long, not Can Tho, the end destination. We entered Vin Long and he told me so. I got ready for the bus station, we were exiting Vinh Long and I thought I'd better get off. I was supposed to tell him whre to drop me. Do I look Vietnamese, can I read your mind???? It was only a short moto trip back to a hotel in the town centre. I got offered a single room with no window, so opted for the 3 bed room. I'll move on tomorrow.
Knackered and crashed.

And so to Hoi An.

2008-06-11T03:25:00.000-07:00

16/5 - Another good breakfast. I've put some weight back on during this journey. The Vietnamese like to eat. I thought we were at the edge of the HCM trail, but the scenery continued a lot longer, along a valley, so we followed a river gradually downhill and stopped at another roadside waterfall. There was not so much clowning around, I think the boy is tiring. They cant hack it , these young 'uns. It is a pineapple area here, there are basket, cart, lorry, moto loads of pineapples along the way, so we pulled over at a cafe (hut by the road) that doubles as a gathering station for the pineapples and had some pineapple, strangely and some VC food. Tinned mackerel in tomato sauce and boiled rice. This was a big part of the VC diet during the war. There was something else too, but I don't remember what. The people collecting the pineapples are busy, hard workers and it is 50-50 men and women. There were more minoirty villages along the way once we set off again, mostly the houses were made from wood or bamboo,straw and mud. I guess the government moves to integrate them hasn't succeeded yet. It was time to get the fleece off, the temperature is rising. It has been a real pleasure to wear jeans and trainers everyday. I was even c old at o ne point. We hit the flat lands and the paddy fields reappeared and thousands of kids going to and leaving school, so the roadside Mexican wave and hello echoes were very prominent again. Time for a rest for Jack, co we pulled to the shade of a tree. 3 women over the road beckoned us over, but Khien resisted, not for long though, the charmer was out charmed. I think he wanted to go all along. He fielded the 20 questions again and I smiled charmingly as always. It was a good laugh again. Whenever it's known I'm single, I soon know who are the single women. It is more of a natural response than a grab the weird Englishman, hem may be rich. Back on Jack and because it is a sunny day, there are kilometres of rice, chillies, corn, maze, fish, all sorts laid out to dry on sheets by the side of the road, and basically anywhere that the sun is shining. This is authentic sun dried goods. Moto's and bikes ride over the rice where necessary, or people walk on it, probably helps the overall process. Rolling into Hoi An was a little bit sad, I have had a great 5 days and am gee'd up to do a motorbike course w hen I get home. Hoi An looks good, the women would like it here, it's renowned for shopping. Rustic style shops, small, cut with everything in them. THe shopping streets I saw put me in mind of a one story cowboy town. I don't know if they are 1 story, that was just the feeling I had as I walked back from the ATM. Khien dropped me there, we had traveled 5 days, no problems and he got lost on the way to the ATM, that I walked back from. He's a good bluffer though. I gave him back the money I had borrowed from him, we had a couple of hugs and Easy Rider disappeared into the afternoon sun. He's one lad I will never forget and I'll always smile when I remember him. Time to go and sob in a beer I reckon. Then nap, repack, shower, food and bed. I walked down the road to check out the eateries in the cowboy town, as I'm going through the swing doors of a local eatery (bit of artistic license there), it always causes a stir when I walk into one of these joints. Guessing, the waitresses say "You go and serve him"
"No you go", but there is usually one who is not too shy. There's no menu, but I know what beef is and rice and beer, there's always some green bits too and it was lovely, the beer too, so lovely I am making myself thirsty thinking about it. The lady came over to check what I was writing. Once the ice is broken, they aren't shy. I almost had another beer, but the HCM trail is catching up with me, so I hit the straw pile.

Off to the HCM trail.

2008-06-09T03:40:00.000-07:00

15/5 - Up and Khien is singing, he gor around to singing a song about the HCM trail. He should stick to these type of songs, he's not bad, I usually get pop or kids songs. Fried egg butties for breakfast, Vietnamese style, very nice, then Khien dropped me at an internet shop while he went to wash Jack. It's got less than 1,000 Km on the clock, so its understandable.

The company who I got this round the world ticket from have come good, they have got my Aussie visa sorted out overnight. The consulate in HCM city was going to take a fortnight.

First stop today was in a minority village. BMT is a big city and we only went a few miles outside where there's a minority village and hou ses are wooden and there's not a lot of money about. It seemed strange, but it's normal for big cities all over, poor places withing spitting distance of the money places. There's a longhouse that's used for village meetings and teaching. THe roof is really high and thatched and all held together by bamboo and string. We'll pass a few of these today. The steps in are a notched tree trunk, its on stilts. There are lots of pictures of Uncle Ho, HCM, inside. He is very reviered in Vietnam, but Khien reckons he is only 80% good, because he never married. Just a long the road, an old fellow, 92, comes out to greeet us in French and with a toothless grin. He's 4 foot nothing and lively as owt. He took us to his house, up the stairs and outside there's a musical instrument he has made from bamboo and fishing line. He's really good on it. It's like a xylophone with extras. Khien got on the suspended drum until a young lad came and kicked him off. The old lad gave it some stick, I had a dabble, but was crap. Khien wasn't bad, but he'd been before, that's my excuse. The old fella was chuffed to bits to see us and be able to show off and was full of it as we left, all in French.

Next stop a big old wooden church and very nice too . It fronts as an orphanage. We'd got some pens and sweets for he kids. Khien wouldn't come in, he gets too upset when he sees the babies, so I went in. The old lad who runs it speaks rally good English. There are 184 kids here, all but 1 are minority kids, from 1 to 19 years old. The government give no support. I'm glad I didn't have too much in my nifty pink purse, I emptied it. When I got back to Khien, he was giving an English lesson. He's self taught from books and tourists. He got through university, as a biology teacher, but couldn't get a job, he reckons because his Dad was an officer in the S. Vietnamese army. His Dad has already paid too, with years of rehabilitation in prison. We moved on now heading for the HCM trail, but stopped first at another monument, this one had tanks, so the amry clown suits came out. After this we nipped to a street stall for a coffee. Khien fielded the 20 querstions and I chipped in with, thank you, son, daughter etc.... The Vietnamese are usually surprised, but pleaseed when I try to speak Vietnamese, een j usyt "thank you" makes them smile. We're off again, but not to far before pulling over. Khein pointed out we're about 15Km from Cambodia adn Laos and also the sign Duong HCM, the Ho Chi Minh trail. We'd had 3 great days already, but the scenery along this is fantastic, thick jungle all the way to the mountain tops, roadside waterfalls, smashing, if poor villages and lots of friendly people. Not to miss out, we had a good clown around at a lovely waterfall, Khien playing dead in the middle of the road, he likes his photo taken. Needless to say, the HCM trail isn't that busy a road, Khien's daft, but not that daft.
We pulled over at a minority family house. Khien spotted the Mam, a really beautiful lady, sitting on her step with 5 kids, 3 are hers. Across the ditch ans sit on the ground with the kids. I only kept one packet of sweets for the HCM trail. I wish I'd kept them all. These kids had snotty noses, some were half clothed, one nude. The sparkle in their eyes was missing from these kids, even when the sweets came out. This was a lot sadder than the orphanage. The Mam was smashing and Khien had a chat to her. The house was wooden with hard dirt floor, very little in it. There was a TV, but not a lot else. The Mam's eyes were bright, perhaps from loving the kids. Thinking about it now pulls a cloak of sadness over me. We were getting along pretty good, then 3 blokes turned up on a moto, one the husband and all drunk. I know I should not jump to conclusions, but I was a bit pissed off by it. The Mam was pleased to see him, but we weren't Khien up'd stumps and we were off. He couldn't understand the blokes language, the minority people in the mountains still use their own dialect. It is dying out in the lowland villages as the government try to integrate these people, which seems a bit of a shame. I think I mentioned Khien has a soft spot for the minority people and it shows more as we meet more of them. He has picked up a bond from somewhere.
Back on the trail, the stunning scenery eventually removes the sadness cloak. If I come back to Vietnam, I will do this again, stocking up on food before hitting the HCM trail, to dish out along the way. As we got closer to tonights stopover we passed through villages with kids walking home from school, again we got loads of waves and hellos, it really lifts my spirits, not that they need lifting, but I feel even better. I even got a high five from one kid on the trail, probably a truant, him and his mates were having too much fun. All along my trip I've been thinking "This is a great life". Now I am shouting it to Khien, I'm having so much fun.
Into the hotel in Phuoc Son, showered and a walk down the road to a restaurant and another good meal. Khien wasn't so quick on the draw tonight with the beers. I think it was because of the company. He will marry a Vietnamese girl, I reckon, but loves blonde lasses and another Easy Rider from Na Tranh, who Khien knows, walked in with a tall, blonde, Aussie lass. Mr Charmer was all of a sudden tongue tied. It was funny to watch. The harder he tried the worse he became, but the Aussie lass, Hannah, dug him out of the holes he was getting in. She seemed like she would have liked a beer, but hadn't realised wer were having more than one, before she got whisked away. We only had 2 or 3, then back to bed. Khien is really good company and is keen to learn things, as well as dish his knowledge out.

http://picasaweb.google.com/brooks.gilbert/DalatToLakLake
http://picasaweb.google.com/brooks.gilbert/LacLakeToBuonMaThout

Off to Komtum today, I think.

2008-06-07T01:42:00.000-07:00

14/5 - Up loaded up and of to the bakery to pick up some tasty stuff for breakfast. We had to go through the market. It was heaving. People don't get off their motos, just pull over and check out the merchandise and decide whether to buy. The housewives all turn up early to get their fresh food, none of this refrigeration lark here, then it back home to get cracking. We got through and picked up some tasty looking pastries and Khien told me to pick on e up that looks dec idedly li ke a cake to me. I don't usually do cake for breakfast, but I never used to do noodles or chillies either, cake should be less of a wrench. The market wasn't so bad on the way back. The photo lady from yesterday was there at the roundabout, but I saw her too late to shout and make a fool of myself. Will that last the day? I very much doubt it. Out of town a few K's and we pulled over at a cafe for tea, coffee and YES it is a cake and bloody lovely too. It was a loaf cake, no ceremony, snapped in half and get stuck in. The pastries were filling too, even Khien kept one for later. We set off yet again, di thoi big boy, we passed through rubber plantations. The plants are not like the rubber plants you see back home. It looks a laborious task to collect the sresin, but the Vietnamese are good at them jobs. We pulled into a rubber plantation for a gander and bounced around a bit. It's all clever stuff, the collection method. A nick here a pot there and resin everywhere. Di thoi again and through a few villages, there's street/roadside markets in most of them and loads of the little tractors with long steering arms, pulled over at the markets. They double up as taxis for the farm workers. We've passed loads on the way back from the fields loaded up with people, most wearing the nun las. We pulled into a monument to the mail men and women. Lots of these monuments have statues of several people all in different ethnic clothing. Khien always tells me the different types. He also pointed out some shy grass, the leaves close up when touched. He comes across as a real country lad, but I think he has picked a lot of it up from the farmers he speaks to along the way. After a bit of clowning around, Khien is an expert, it's back on the bike. The scenery around here is more rolling, so not so stunning, but still eye catching. The resin from pine trees is being collected too, so I asked about it. There was something illegal going on, but I'm not sure wh at. Something to do with making it into explosives and fishing with it. There is a legal side too, but I missed it. Khien was clowning around again, h e did Kung Fu for a couple of years, so was kicking at a dead tree when he spotted a mouse hidden in a hollow branch. He nearly wet himself. Big, hard Kung Fu fighter. He legged it when I went to scare it out. Di thoi lady boy and we pulled over at a roadside cafe for some sugar cane drink. We hit the hammocks. Khien tried to mother me into a low one, but I lounged next to him and the lady brought a table over in between us and put the drinks on it. Anything to make life relaxed and easy, they are smashing people. We had a bit of crack with the lady, he's a real charmer. He knows most of the answers to the questions about me now, so I don't get too involved. It is the Vietnamese way to ask and I quite like being celebraty. We finished off the pastries, the sugar cane was nice too, we had a bit of a swing and then left with a big smile from the lady. We are passing through poor places now, with mostly wooden houses. The housing material seems to be the only difference, the people seem to be doing the same thing, but look poorer.
The schools always seem to be going in or coming out in dribs and drabs, but when we hit peak hour time we both wave and shout and it's like a Mexican wave as we pass. It lifts my heart to see it, a real boost to morale. Like Carol said, I'm just a crusty marshmallow. Morale isn't low, but the kids do make life even better.
We passed a wedding in full swing. They look to be good fun.
Next stop, a pepper plantation. It tastes great straight off the plant. We jus wander into all of these places. If anyone is around they usually have a quick word, then just get on with their business. You may not believe this, but there was somemore clowning around and then we are off again. I've suspected bus drivers are crazy when I have been on them, but being on the outside, more than confirms it. We had to pull off the road to avoid one. They dont give a toss about the motorcyclists.
There are lots of the babyslings in this neighbourhood and the woven bamboo baskets too. The minoirty peoples have a completely different look to the run of the mill Vietnamese. More like Peruvians. Perhaps it is a mountain thing, or jungle thing, as they mostly hale from th juingles. We pulled over to give Jack a rest and for a bit of a clown around. 3 ladies sat over the road h ad a good lauigh. They were sat on the step having a good old chin wag. It reminded me of my Mam and the other miners wives standing at the gate nattering at the end of a shift, waiting for the men to come home. While we were there, 3 lasses with babies in slings walked passed, one had the bamboo weave basket no her back too, another an umberella for a sunshade and the last was smoking a pipe. We set off again, with a cheery goodbye from the doorstep ladies and headed for Sea Lake, so called because of its blue colour. It looks man made, but is a volcano crater, it must have been a big volcano, the lake is a big one. An old fell came dashing over to show us a big centipede or millipede, either way it was big. I had one in my room the other week. This is another romantic setting and there are starry eyed couples, but I soon put the mockers on that. An addictive ca phe da, iced coffee and we are off again, headed back to BMT city for the night. We are sharing a room from here to save dosh, so there was a super clowning moment when Khien spotted my fins, mask and snorkel, he was like a kid in a sweet shop. and disappeared down the corridor wearing them. We got shifted eventually and caught a taxi to a BBQ testaurant. A little wrough iron BBQ is put on your table and you do it yourself. Keeping the adventure going, we had wild boar, it was better than the porcupine though that was OK too. A few beers, abit of charming by Khien and back to bed. He cam sleep for Vietnam. He always tells me not to set my alarm, hel'll wake me and I end up waiting for him to wake up. He wakes up lively though, so we don't have to hang about long. The worst thing is he wakes up singing.

Day 2 to Hoi An. Today to Buon Ma Thout.

2008-06-03T22:40:00.000-07:00

13/5 - Village life starts early. About 4.00 am Toto were being played in the yard next door, a little bit surreal. I nodded off, then woke, then nodded off, then woke, then gave up and got up, the village life noise was too much for me, but Khien was snoring like a good 'un. He came out in the end and showed me the official toilet and washroom. The lads next door were dipping into a waist high jar, I was just about to join them when Khien came out. There was a shower in our place, but it would have been whimpish to use it.
There are plenty of pot belly pigs all over the show and chickens. An Aussie lass is trying to get to stroke the pigs, but they are having none of it. We went down to the lake and some of the fisherman are coming back in. The catch is mostly small stuff. One lad had a fish about 1lb, so he was smiling, that's a big one. There's lots of lads out on the lake, so I guess the fish don't get much opportunity to get big. The nets are put in the water then the fishermen clash their oars on the water to chase the fish into the nets. Any that are not eaten fresh are smoked, not in papers like weed. A few of the old dears are walking around smoking pipes and have babies slung on their backs. There seems to be more women smoking them than blokes. I think this is either H'Mong or Lat minority people, they have a tradition of using these slings, some of the kids being carried look like they should be walking, which surprised me. The longhouses give the village a great look. Whole families sleep in them with curtain partitions. There is a the ladies section at the back where they get banished to when the lads want a bit of privacy. It sounds like the women are 2nd class citizens, but they control the money. All the money coming in is given to the wife, if the lads want a drink or a smoke they go cap in hand and if they do anything out of order, no money, no sex and no cooking, so perhaps it is more 50/50 than it first appears.
These people work hard and have a knack of going at at nice easy pace. They have long days but pace themselves nicely.
There were only 3 tourists in the village from what I could see, but daytime visitors must be due as a load of elephants with seats on are trundling through the village. The Aussie lass has already set off on one.
Breakfast now, omlette and french stick, typically Vietnamese, it's popular and we get some kickass coffee again. Time to hit the road Jack. I'm glad Khien relented from going to a hotel. I'm starting to enjoy getting up early. Di toiy, let's go, Khien has taught me this, so I taught him di toiy big boy, but I get di toiy lady. We skirted the lake, there's lots of rice farming going on. We pulled over at some kids fishing. They lower a net, about 6ft x6ft, into the river by a hand held frame, leave it a few minutes then bring it out most of the fish are stickleback size, but they are bagged up, perhaps for fish sauce, very popular in Vietnam. Khien got nattering to the eldest lass hauling the net. They work from 6am to 6pm doing this. She seemed to take a shine to Khien and invited him to have a go, so it as a quick di toiy big boy. Perhaps he's not the ladies man he makes out, but he is a smashing lad.
We stopped next at a brickworks, this looks like a family concern, the lad is loading the bricks from the kiln onto a conveyor, Mam is stacking them on the trolley and Dad and another bloke are unloading them. The kilns are tall brick towers with tunnels underneath where great tree trunks are loaded and set on fire after the clay bricks have been cut in the nearby clay mixing leanto and loaded into the kiln with coal dust spread between them. It looks very time consuming, but well organised. The bricks go for 500 Dong each, 32 bricks for $1.
Along the road families make granite bricks from the nearby hills. It is all done with hammer and chisel and I can see the marks on the stones just like in th temple at Angkor in Cambodia, built hundreds of years ago.
After some beautiful countryside we rolled into TP BMT, Buon Ma Thout. Khien dumped me at a roundabout with a monument on it, in the middle of town and went off to get some picnic food. I walked around the roundabout and smiled at the photograph lady, then sat on a wall. I took out my mobile and the photo lady came over to check it out, followed closely by a young couple, none of us could speak each ohters language, but I had a laugh with the photo lady. I have learned Vietnamese for son, daughter, grandson, daughter-in-law and granddaughter, so the family photo always comes out and I show off both my Vietnamese and family. This inevitably leads onto wife, but I haven't learned how to say "buggered off" in Vietnamese. Perhaps I should try to learn divorced. We were having such a good time, we never noticed Khien sat at the curb beeping his horn. I said goodbye, but she followed me to checkout the wife bit with Khien. She is single too, so I gave her a hug and a knowing smile and she laughed. Khien tried to set me up with a date that night, typical Khien, but she declined, with a laugh. A lot of people frown on divorce in Vietnam, but I've come across loads of divorced ladies. I haven't chatted the men up, so don't know about them.
Di toiy, with a big smile and wave in both directions. Next stop a set of waterfalls. Khien sent me off to take some photos and stroll and when I came backhe'd set up the picnic on the road on newspaper. Rice paper, herbs, pork, sauce and noodles, more herbs and a beer. I'm having a great time with this lad. He packed all the non-organic bits in a bag, very none Vietnamese like. We clowned around a bit and got back in the saddle. A young couple turned up, this is a very romantic spot, but they didn't stay long, I think it was Khiens singing, he's only slightly better than me.. The picnic made them smile, I wouldn't be surprised if they had gone off to get one. The next waterfall in the same park, is even better. It was a bit of a hike to get there, over a couple of bridges and up and down some rock steps, but well worth it. We did a bit more clowning on the way. Khein is looking out for m, this walk was good though, it made him realise I can do most things, just in my own way, he still watched me like a hawk. this is a beautiful place. I had real sweat on when we got back, so we had a sit and a cold drink to cool off. I think Khien was quite proud of me. We met another Easy Rider with a Scottish lass and picked up my passport and Khien's ID. We'd got half way around the lake this morning, when he got a call to tell us we are dopes, but the Easy Rider brotherhood came goo, we didn't have to go back for them.
We set off back towards BMT city for the night, so I could have had a date. We hit a bit of rain, but were dry by the time we reached the hotel. A bit of laundry, a nap and repack and then out for some food. It is raining again. We went on the bike. Khien has a good friend in BMT, Quon and he came along later with his girlfriend, Loin. He's all goggle eyed with her, he is 30 and she is 20 and she has to be home by 8.30pm, her parents have told her, much to the delight of the grumpy old man. Quon came back and we had a few more beers. We'd had rabbit and beef for eats and they were as usual delicious. The beer was a trial beer and very nice too. Khien has the gift of the gab, he chats up all the waitresses and had Loin grinning like a Cheshire cat. He picked up another nickname today. "Check it out Khien". He moves in close if we pass any fit lasses on motos and checks them out in his wing mirrors. I pulled him up on it and he said "Check it out" so it stuck. He is a little bit tipsy tonight, so I pulled him up on that too and it was the last time we used the bike at night. He went back to run Quon home too, even though he said he'd get a moto. It was good to see the respect Khien showed him. Quon took him under his wing when he first arrived in Da Lat from his home town to study. I hit the sack when he went back.

Off for the 5 day tour to Hoi An.

2008-06-02T02:33:00.000-07:00

12/5 - I woke early and threw the curtains open to see how heavy the rain is, only light. I headed for the shower, but never made it, the little lass from the hotel knocked on the door and stood there with fried eggs, baguette and a pot of tea. The little tip came good, but she is a smashing lass anyway, really bubbly and smiley. It has saved me a trip out too. Ready to roll, so I sat in reception, the mobile shop, and waited for Khien, while he sat on his bike outside and waited for me, but we were only like that for a couple of minutes, before he popped his smiley face around the corner. He loaded up the bike and the little lass brought me a coffee, so I encouraged him while I sipped. Loaded up and we set off, in only damp conditions, not really rain. As we left the little lass shouted "Don't forget me". How nice are the Vietnamese. The friendliness is almost overwhelming.
We called in to Vietnam Airlines to get my ticket. The morning flight was full, so I got a ticket for the afternoon, no rush then. Now we are off, but not too far, only to one of the 3 summer palaces the ex-king had built in Da Lat. Khien doesn't have a good word for him. It seems he was a philandering puppet for the French, who spent the peoples money building summer palaces wherever he fancied. The palace isn't flash by todays standards. It is Art Deco, I think, and surprisingly palatial inside, done out mostly in gold and yellow. The flower thing with the colours. Every chance Khien had he slagged off the ex-king.
We moved onto another pagoda next, not as spectacular as yesterdays, but nice gardens. Khien was more taken with the women than the gardens. He blushed big style when I pointed it out to him.
The next stop was out of town a bit to Sap waterfall. There's a rollercoaster that will take people down and bring them back up, if they want. It doesn't spoil the natural look of the place either, it is well hidden. I was going to walk down and take the rollercoaster back, but Khien convinced me to take it both ways and I'm glad he did. It was great going down, you are in control of the brake yourself, so I let it rip, but paniced a bit when I saw the car in front of me looming. The trip was worth it just to go on the rollercoaster, but the falls are pretty too. Not huge, but set down amongst the jungle in a beautiful setting. Thank heavens for my stick again down here, the Vietnamese build big steps for little people. The rollercoaster ride back up was less spectacular, but I'd have been knackered if I'd had to walk back up, it is a fair old hike. Some blokes were clambering across the rail back up as I approached and the last one got his foot caught in the rail. I think I flapped more than he did, I had no control going back up, but he quickly scampered away.
Off we go again on Jack, heading down the mountain through some beautiful scenery. Next stop, Chicken village. It has a huge concrete chicken built there by the government to try and create some mystique around the village with a story made up around the chicken, in an attempt to keep the minority people here, that have been relocated. The government seem to want to control the several minority peoples within Vietnam and stop their nomadic ways. The kids are given free schooling, which is not normal in Vietnam. The story is a Romeo and Juliet type story. I don't know how it will make the people stay around, but then I am not Vietnamese, so don't know the psyche. The village is a dirt track, with wooden houses set back from the track. The houses have a large area in front of them that is used for the kids to play on or for sundrying crops. It is a very poor village with very smiley people. I hope they are as happy as they appear. The kids are especially happy when Khien pulls over, some are too shy to come over, but some come running over shouting for sweets that Khien had picked up along the way. His heart seems to be with the minority people, he talks about them often and I can hear the feeling in his voice. He has a theory that one day they will come to power in Vietnam, as the Vietnamese become more westernised and have less kids, but the minority peoples don't, so they will tip the balance of power. I have a feeling they will be intergrated before that happens. Khien had a good chat with some of the women and loves the kids. The dialect is different, but he gets by. He is a great lad, full of love and fun. Some of the houses are still made with bamboo thatch walls covered in mud, the floors are hardened earth and all the houses look neat and tidy. Not having too many belongings will make that easier. I think this minoriy people are the H'Mhon, they all seem hard working, there is a lot of activity in the surrounding fields, all the farming is manual.
Khien had asked if I fancied lunch at his Grandad's. It sounded like a good idea to me and it was. We rolled into the open yard and his Grandad was there in a flash. 62 and fit as a fiddle, he almost shook my hand off. Khien was earning his corn translating now. A glass of tea appeared before I could get my helmet off. Khien had told me of the Vietnamese tradition of tea being the first thing that happens whenever someone arrives anywhere at homes, businesses, restaurants and the grumpy old man told me it used to be like that in the UK when he was a lad. Another custom Khien mentioned is the Vietnamese give visitors 20 questions rattled off in quick succession and I got that too. Kids, married, home, age, my legs. It is like a formality and once it is over you can sit back relax and field the next 20 questions. The family here is Grandad, Grandmother, 3 uncles and aunties and about 4 kids. Grandad fusses around me like a mother hen and Grandmother just gets on with life quietly in the background, smoothly moving around and in between everyone. We went from the wooden out-building to the bricks and mortar house. I took my trainers off and was setting off for the house, when Grandad's flip flops appeared in front of me, so I donned them for the 10 yds walk. Nothing is too much trouble for anyone. More tea appeared in the house and the table was started to be set. Khien makes himself at home flitting around the house. Grandad keeps shaking my hand, smiling and laughing. He wishes me luck in health, wealth and everything going and tells me his house is my house and wants me to come back. Grandmother cooks the food with the help of the other lasses. There is all sorts laid on with as much rice wine as you want, but I took it easy. There's chicken, fish, beef, noodles, loads of different veg and there's eggs. Grandad is trying to fatten me up, he keeps putting chicken in my bowl before I can try anything else out. Yo, Vietnamese Cheers, is said a lot too, with the rice wine in hand. GET THIS LADIES, all the blokes sat around the table, whilst the ladies sat around a mat laid on the floor, Grandma and the 8 month pregnant auntie too. The Vietnamese are great at sitting on their haunches, I get really jealous. I mention to the blokes about the ladies sitting on the floor and was told that is just the way it is. The women come and sit at the table and chat whenever they fancy. The food was brilliant and now the fruit, rambutan came out and I had one put in my hand everytime it was empty, but I do like them. I have been invited to stay for as long as I want, whenever I want. Grandad wants us to stay tonight, so he can take me fishing and drink rice wine and beer. If I come back to Vietnam, he wants me to bring some wine from England, he says the wine in Vietnam is expensive and not good. I will try to call here again before I leave Vietnam. Coming here for a few days has to be better than sightseeing. Diep, my unofficially adopted daughter want me to call to see her before I leave too, she has made a present for me. It is all getting a bit overwhelming. Khien started to make moves to get us on the road again and about 30 minutes later we managed to leave. I have had a great time and would love to go fishing with Grandad, we'll see. I felt like a million dollars as we drove on and the sun was shining too. Khien stops regularly, to give Jack a rest he says, but I think he is looking after the old man on the back. We stopped at a bamboo bridge. I thought the one in Cambodia was rickety, this one is definitley not for heavy traffic. It is used to allow the villagers to get their crops over the river. There is no way I'd drive a motorbike over here, I have enough trouble walking over it. We are having a good laugh along the way, we are already good mates on the road. The rain came on and there was still a long way to go. The gortes trainers weren't waterproof against this. I had my Green Bay Packers cape on, but it only came to my knees, below that was drenched and I'm having a whale of a time, loving every minute. The scenery is great, rain or no rain. We are headed for Lak lake, a minority village and to stay in a long house overnight. Khien is having second thoughts and thinking about a hotel, worrying about the bloke on the back, but he relents when he sees how good a time I am having. The rain eased off a bit for the last few miles until we pulled into the cafe at the village, but not enough to dry us any. The cafe is run by the head man and Khien sorts out a longhouse for us and we have a beer, whilst it is readied. I felt sorry for the lad and lass who went off to ready it, the rain had started again, but they never flackered, just jumped on the moto and off they went. We even have to hand in passport and ID here, it is a way the bobbies make a few extra bob I reckon. We had quick look at the lake, the rain had stopped and the sun was dropping, not that we could see it. Khien set us up with some food for later at a cafe. It is more of a bit of spare space in case someone drops in. The canoes on the lake are hollowed out tree trunks and solid. The longhouse is on stilts and there's only me and Khien in it. It could sleep about 40 at a push. We got a mattress on the floor, a pillow and a mozzy net. I was dead excited, like a big kid. Khien took pity on me and gave me an extra mattress from out the back. We settled in, put on the sandals to give the trainers chance to drip and headed for some tea. The jeans will dry better on. Tea was a whole roast chicken and rice porridge/soup and both were well received along with a couple of beers. The family sat the other side of a curtain having a natter and a good laugh. The TV is on, but little attention is paid to it. "Good family life." said the Grumpy old man. Fed and watered we headed back. Once there, I asked Khien about the toilet whereabouts. He walked to the edge of the balcony and pee'd over it. Nature he said. It is still raining, so it will soon be diluted. Who am I to argue with the locals, so I pee'd over the side too, brushed my teeth and spat that over the side too, the toothpaste, not my teeth. I wont say in which order I did my ablutions.

Out and about DaLat with Khien.

2008-06-02T01:53:00.000-07:00

11/5 - Off with Khien, the Easy Rider, for a day around the outskirts of DaLat seeing this and that. He is a good laugh and doesn't seem to take much too seriously. We headed out of town. The scenery around DaLat is smashing mountainous countryside, not rugged mountains, but forest covered mountains. Some of the forest is pine and there are some clear areas. Khien says it is mostly because of American bombing and agent orange. Some may be due to local deforestation, which is now banned. Some of the things done in the war are very sad, but I guess that is war.
We stopped off at a pagoda and although I thought I had seen enough pagodas, I enjoyed this one. The Buddhas inside were interesting and the big happy Buddha outside was the happiest Buddha I have seen, even happier than me. The only down side is I've forgotten the pagodas name. I have also forgotten the order we visited everything. (Hang on I'll get my camera.)
We checked out the market gardens, mostly flowers, which DaLat is famous for. The colour of the flowers have different meanings, I THINK, red is for luck, pink is for love and happiness, (is that possible said the Grumpy old man), yellow is for power and features in the ex-monarchs furnishings etc., orange is for the elderly. I have been told slightly different meanings by different people, but they are never far off the same.
Khien stopped several times as we went along. He showed me the coffee beans and we had a quick chew, he seems to chew everything. I'd wondered what all the plantations were. There are 3 types of coffee plants, but mocha has become the favourite, as it is the shortest, so easiest to harvest. On some of the plantations there are passion fruit, mingled in with the coffee plants. There's probably a reason, but I didn't ask Khien. He picked one for a chew and it was smashing, really tasty, the coffee beans weren't bad either. I wasn't keen on the bark used to make incense, but Khien tried it, so I did too and spat it out too.
We had a coffee break at a cafe that also grows mushrooms, collects silkworm cocoons and brews rice wine and very nice rice wine it was too. Khien told me the viagra rice wine is the one with the snake in it and blow me they are out of it, so I tried the banana one, good for your back and it works, mine didn't hurt at all when I fell over drunk. We carried on a bit aboard his bike, Jack. It comes from "Hit the road Jack". Khien is a little crazy in a good fun way. Next stop was the silk factory. They collect their own cocoons and buy the ones from the locals. It is clever how the silk is collected and spun, I was quite engrossed, but Khien moved me on to the shop. I don't know if silk is dear, but here a top was 6 quid, for a lady, it felt nice too. Apparently, clothing sold elsewhere as silk, tends to have some cotton mixed in, not that I would be able to tell, which is probably why it is done. We did so much I cannot remember it all. We ended up back at the cafe, as Khien had ordered lunch before we left. The food laid out was loads and delicious and the beer was pretty good too. Still no snake rice wine.
After Da Lat, I'm not sure where to go. I don't fancy the seaside tourist resorts. I had a look at Cat Tien National park, but Khien in good tout form, showed me some of the rides out that the Easy Riders do. I didn't fancy the 5 day one to HCMC, but the one to Hoi An sounds the business. I held back on a decision, unusually, until I could find out if I could fly back from Danang to HCMC. Believe it or not, I have a plan for next week, so next week will probably be a write off. We headed back into town and paid a visit to the Crazy House. You should see this place. It is designed and still being built by a Vietnamese lady who studied architecture in Moscow. Somewhere along the way she got mixed up between Lord of the Rings and Alice in Wonderland and has produced this place. It is used as a hotel too, it is a really cool place, a sort of fantasy land. The steps are just the job for me too, they are staggered left and right. It is not easy to describe, I'll try and get some photos on the web.
Khien is really keen for me to go on the trip to Hoi An, understandably, it is his living and I really fancy it, so we agreed to go to Vietnam airlines in the morning and see if I can get a ticket. Khien dropped me back at the hotel. I thought I'd better get my laundry back if we are off tomorrow. I'd only put it in this morning, but the little lass from the hotel went and got it for me, a little damp, but not to worry, the girl done good. I settled up for the hotel and laundry and gave her a little extra, I thought she was going to cry.
I headed off to the Central Market and the rain came on again, but only light so I kept trudging down some of the narrow streets. This is a smart little town, if I don't head off with Khien tomorrow I think I'll hang around a couple more days. I finally got myself some soap, toothpaste and toothbrush. They were down to nil and the toothbrush is a bit battered after 4 months, a bit like me. They came to $2. This place is cheap to live, Vietnam, out of the cities. I finally got to Central Market, I took the miandering route, I believe it is called getting lost. The market is mostly fruit and veg with lots of food stalls around the fringes. There are some fish stalls too. It is a lively place. I picked up some tasty snacks along the way, including a chocolate cake and the heavens opened, so I ducked into an internet shop. It was a waste of time, it was still raining when I came out, so I shopdoorwayhopped my way back to the hotel and ate my snacks on the balcony, then packed and watched some football with a cup of tea and my chocolate cake. What happened to the beer and black pudding??? I'm getting soft.

Cool in Dalat.

2008-05-27T00:02:00.000-07:00

10/5 - It is nice not to sweat for a change, although when the sun comes out it is warm. I had some pho bo for breakfast, like a beef, noodle broth, with herbs. I may have told you that before, so 2 for the price of one. If you told me a few weeks ago that I'd be eating noodles for breakfast, I probably would have believed you, as I've stopped surprising myself over what I eat nowadays. The meals come with fresh herbs regularly. I think the one I like the best is basil, but who knows. You just rip off the leaves and lob them in and have a quick stir. Yum yum.
Fueled up, I thought I would burn a few calories and set off up the road. I got pulled over by an Easy Rider, Khien. They are famous within Dalat and take people on their motorbikes for city or area tours. I had read a bit about them, so fancied a trip out, but being me, I took his card for a think. A bit more traipsing around and an efix then I decided to give Khien a ring and book for tomorrow. I asked him where I could hire an automatic moto. "Meet me outside in 10 minutes."
And there it was. I wanted a auto Honda 90, like my Dad used to have. I got a souped up Yamaha scooter, well, it seemed souped up to me, except going down hill, when it cut out if the throttle was shut. A bit, no not true, a lot hesitantly I set off and pulled over about 200 metres down the road, but only for petrol. Back on my new wheels and off down the road, which turned into a dirt track, OH OH, which turned into a narrow bridge, double OH OH, but no problem and no dead pedestrians. I was starting to get a bit cocky now, so headed out of town to look for some rough verges to practice on. When the buses, lorries and cars come passed, they don't expect to have to slow down or move over, the moto is expected to pull off the road and keep going. I never made the verges though, the heavens opened. I had planned ahead and brought the cape Dung gave me, but ripped it trying to put it on, so I did the local thing and found a building with shelter and pulled over. A bit late, but now the road was awash. The rain backed off, so I headed for the hotel, to pick up the heavy duty cape I have been toating around for 4 months. It was almost binned a few times, but now I am glad it wasn't. I got conned though, before I got back to the hotel, the rain lashed again and now I am completely drenched. Not to be detered, or to be a bit stupid, I got changed donned the cape and was cruising again. Dalat is a cool place. I took in the cathederal, the lake, the golf course, the lake again. I don' t know how that happened. I was going to avoid the central market area, but thought I'd skirt it. Wrong, I took a wrong turning and ended up amongst the stalls. There are some people very lucky to be alive still. The market is for fruit, fish, flowers and veg and very busy at this time of the evening. I manouvered my way out and kept on following my nose. I was getting a bit cold now with the rain and high wind as I hurtled along, so I pulled over for a whiskey, but had a tea. I left the bike outside the cafe, but only just. When I'd thawed out, my time with the bike was almost up, so I set off back, the wrong way around a roundabout, I later found out. It looked like a load of shops to me, not a roundabout. It doesn't really matter over here anyway. I have enjoyed it on the scooter, this could become a feature. I dropped it off and had some nosh and an early night.

Decisions decisions.

2008-05-26T23:38:00.000-07:00

9/5 - Moving house again. I was going to go to the Mekong Delta, but decided to go to Dalat. Why, I don't remember, so it must have been a monumental decision. Dalat is in the Central Highlands of South Vietnam and handily, the bus goes from just around the corner. That could have been the reason to choose it. I lugged my gear around there and luckily, there is a bus ready to go. Got my ticket and stowed my gear in the hold, along with a couple of motos. I know I go on about this, but do you think that would happen in the UK. Anything gets transported here, so long as it will fit in or on. Except durian, that has to go outside or not at all. This is the most luxurious bus I have been on so far, but the local one to Ha Tien, was cosier and friendlier.
It is a fair old hike, about 6 - 7 hours but the views are good, to the time doesn't drag. We stopped a couple of times at services. I am trying all sorts of food at the services now. At the first one I tried a strawberry cornetto, just what the doctor ordered. At the second it was back to pho bo. The conductor made a list of the hotels we were staying at, I picked mine out of the LP, as he was writing the list. It will be handy getting dropped at the hotel. It was also wishful thinking. We got dumped at the town centre, or just out of it.
I looked at my map, I don't know why, but didn't feel so bad when a Swiss bloke couldn't work out our location either. The bus driver pointed out on the map where we were and I still couldn't work it out. The Swiss bloke wandered off to find some street names and a smashing little lass, very reminiscent of Diep, showed him where we were. The bus driver was a country mile off. The little lass was trying to get us to go to her hotel, the Swiss lad wandered off not interested. She told me where the one I was after was and said, "but very expensive $10-12". I asked where hers was. We were stood in it, fronted by a mobile shop. Does it sound dodgy to you? Oh yee of little faith. I didn't have to walk, so I took a gander. Cable TV (footie), hot water (luxury), big room (parties) and a balcony (outside toilet). $6, how could I say no. She even wanted to carry my rucksack upstairs.
It is fairly close to the local town centre, as opposed to the tourist town centre. I mozied on out to checkout the neighbourhood. This is quite a neat little place. The telephone tower is modeled on the Eifel tower, but I think that is quite common in VN. I almost went into a local eatery, but kept going a while and hit the real town centre, Touristville. I shouldn't keep having a go really, considering my position as a tourist. There's a smashing big lake and a good looking golf course, $65 a go. I could be tempted. The tourist area has loads of neon and a line of bars, so being a tourist, I went in one, for a coffee of course, but had a beer. The town is buzzing, it is that time of night again. Dalat is busy with VN tourists as well as foreign tourists. I watched the sun go down over my beer and headed off again. I hit the ATM, but could only get money out if I used my card. I couldn't find a local eatery that was open now, so ended up doing a complete loop and back at the first place I saw. I should have gone in then, this place is too hilly to be wandering all over, I wont be hiring a push bike here.
The city/town is popular with VN tourists because it is the flower city of VN, also known as the honeymoon city. It is the biggest flower and veg producer in the country I believe and I am very glad to be here.

Saigon strolling.

2008-05-26T03:22:00.000-07:00

8/5 - Off to sort out my flight dates today, they are all way out of line, except for the Sydney one, you can tell this is my first time travelling, my estimates were way out. I used my head and took a moto there, but didn't use my head and change them when they asked for $15 admin. It was free on the phone to Bangkok. It'll probably cost me $30 to phone now.
I was going to walk to the Aussie consulate and sort out my visa, but decided to use my head again.... OH OH. I phoned them. It takes a fortnight to process. That saved me a walk, so I ended up by the Saigon river, for yet another caphe da. This is a big port, I hadn't realised. There are some big ships in here and a lot of them, like Liverpool used to be I suspect. (look out, here comes the grumpy old man). The 2 nearby ferries give it some stick, back and forth across the river and a couple of hydrofoils whizzed passed. It is a busy old river. There are not many touts here either, although that may change in the evening. A couple of nice Vietnamese men came over for a chat. One is looking to buy a yacht. I guess he earns a few bob. He is off to Plymouth soon to check out a factory. I wonder if it is to close it down and move the work, or for some friendly joint venture. They insisted taking my photo for me with the river in the background, which was friendly. I headed back towards town, stopping in the shade whenever the sun came out. I managed to shake off a persistent moto man and was getting a bit peckish, so stopped at a street corner vendor to pick up something I hadn't tried. I don't know what it is, but it looks OK. Poly bag in hand, I went looking for a perch. Some young man sat on a low windowsill/pavement, so I went and joined him. He motioned me to shuffle along, so I couldn't be seen from inside. It is friendly around here. Another lad came and joined our perch. It looks like I have picked a popular spot. The 2 lads lay down and nodded off, so I got stuck into my food. The sauce looks like giant tapioca. I must have been a pretty sight, because a bloke over the road took my photo. Me being the friendly sort, I waved, which made him and his mates smile. The food turned out to be banana fritters and tapioca and it went down very nicely thank you. The lads from across the road came over for a natter, intrigued I think. The Vietnamese plonk down and eat or sleep anywhere and dont draw a second glance, some gangly, bald Mackem sits down and everyone stares. I suppose I do stand out a bit. Eventually, I wandered off in the direction of the hotel, until I recognised I was headed towards the river, wrong way. The more I look at maps, the worse I get. I got a moto back, it is safer and went for a power nap. I don't know why I bother, something usually wakes me after about 10 minutes, probably my snoring.
I thought I'd head for the park and do some catch up with the log, so I found myself a shady spot and was joined by a persistent, canny, old bloke, who wanted money, but being a tight-fisted git, I never handed any over. He wasn't moving though, so I moved on and did a bit of blog catch up instead. I remembered my laundry and visa extension too, so went off to pick them up. It is a hard old life, but I consoled myself with a beer on the way back to drop them off. A lady outside an Italian/Vietnamese restaurant has been chatting and smiling everytime I walked passed, so I thought I'd go and eat there. I'm an easy target. A couple of glasses of wine and a beer and I'm half cut, so thought I'd better go back in case I get chatted up and don't spot the meat and 2 veg, although, I have only seen 1 ladyboy, since I have been in Vietnam.
Goodnight.

Good morning Ho Chi Minh City.

2008-05-26T02:41:00.000-07:00

7/5 - Up and at 'em. I thought I'd do a few sights today, but used my h ead and got a cyclo to the first one. If I am honest he badgered me into it, but it is a good way to see the city. I got a sweat on sat in the front, this bloke must have been soaked, mind you he wont miss a few pounds. You get badgered a bit by cyclos, motos, taxis and the ganja, sex, opium etc are like water off a ducks back now.
I checked out the bookshops. Why? I don't know, it surprised me too. Next up the Peoples Community building, parliament stuff, I think. I didn't go in, I sat in the park outside, so I am not sure. Then the Opera house, pretty cool. An outside exhibition of photos of Vietnamese life, then another bookshop. I must be delerious. Next, Notre Dame. I am delerious, this isn't Paris. No I am not, it is the French influence. There is a wedding going on too, so I didn't go inside. After 4 months, the sight-seeing urge is fading a bit, but I did go inside the Post Office over the road from Notre Dame and very nice too. I even posted a few postcards, but don't sweat, none to you lot. That'll teach you to read the blog. I read in the comments today, that our Mick is taking credit for it, which means I can take credit for his doctorship, so you know what a load of crap that is.
Wandered to another park, there are loads in HCMC. It is a very open city on the whole. I have heard good and bad about it. I like the place, so far. I heard it is full of motorbikes, but it can't be that full, I haven't been hit yet. It is less hectic than I imagined and nice to walk around, although I am only scratching the surface. Back in the park, a lad offered to shine the soles of my sandals, but I declined and we laughed and we laughed again as I wandered off and saw him shining someones shoes. I kept to the park scene and the shade as much as possible on the way to the Presidents Palace, not too impressive, to be honest. I took a left here, hoping to find Ben Thanh market and shock horror, I did. I like to look around the markets, a lot more than the temples at the moment. If the blog stops here, I have been struck down by Buddah, God, Allah or one of those lads. If it stops later, it was a fatwah. Into the market for a look, but I get the biggest looks I think, my natural beauty again. There is all sorts in here. If you want a T-shirt, jeans, shorts you don't have to look, they get thrust at you, again in the best possible taste with plenty of smiles and patter. I even got offered a helping hand from a young lass to get over the step on the way out. Now I feel like a dodering old fool, instead of the strapping ardonis I was when I came in, so I went back to the entrance and was reborn. I bounded down the road and collapsed behind a tree in another park. Actually I sat on a wall near a quiet spot entering the park. Not quiet for long though. A Phillipino bloke came over to chat. His sister is a nurse here and is going to England soon to be a nurse. He asked if we could meet, so I could give her some local advice. It didn't sound too kosha to me, so I dumped this one, like a hot potato. The LP can get you a bit paranoid. I have been hanging onto my bag for grim death, here in HCMC and my camera is clipped to my belt. I usually carry a debit card, in case I need some dosh, but it is back at the hotel. Anyway NEXT.....
A young lad came over into my quiet spot. He'd been hovering for a while. He gave me some cock and bull story about being on a project, stuttered and stammered a while, then went back to his mate. I had a vice grip on my bag. They both came back over to take a photo. He stood next to me and I watched his hand move to my pocket. At this point the interview was terminated with a few short sharp words, thanks to the LP paranoia. This area around the market is notorious. The landlady also warned me about it. I never twigged until I was back in the hotel, that I could have been in a dust up. They would have been dust and I would have been up in front of the judge. It's a good job Eddie, an old army mate, isn't here with me, we would both have been shot at dawn. A bit more park wandering and back to the digs. It's been partly cloudy today, but I am still dripping. Even the locals sweat when the sun is out. I had a shower, but not before I tell you about the other park adventure. I almost forgot, how could I?
An old dear tried to sell me some sweets, but I declined, so then she offered me her daughter, 22, good boom-boom, good English, good everything. That must be one hell of a mother daughter relationship, or one hell of a mugging, LP parnoia?? No !! the lady was right, she was good boom-boom. Only joking Valerie, pick yourself up. Showered and out. All the places I fancied eating were full, so I returned to last nights haunt, even the same seat. What a boring old fart........................... our Mick is.
I don't think there is anything more to report for tonight, but life is so full in the city, I may have missed something. Anyway, see what tomorrow brings. I think the last boring day I had was before I left home. I could be wrong, there may have been one in Thailand. How can I ever go back to work after this???? EASY, lack of money!!!
Goodnight Johnboy.

Look out Saigon, here comes Gil.

2008-05-25T19:56:00.000-07:00

6/5 - Up with the lizards. The bus is arriving at 7.00. I gave 2 American lasses some friendly stick for being late. We set off and one of the lasses mentioned passport. I'd left mine at reception, but it was only 100 metres. I had to eat my stick though and it wasn't over yet. I hadn't got my ticket for the ferry from reception either. I had reckoned on picking it up from the ferry place. It changes from place to place. A moto man brought it over for me, 30 bob and I got some brownie points from the lasses, he brought a diary they had left behind. I was last man on the hydrofoil and we are off to Rach Gia. Vietnamese films are shown on board and are played so loud, it's pointless trying to listen to my music. Even though I don't understand them, the films are funny, in a Keystone cops sort of way. The 2nd one has the boat rocking with laughter. Our Mick should be here to watch these, they are his sense of humour. The trip was painless, but not for the lass over from me, throwing up. Another lass was greener than the top she had on, poor buggers. Into port, loaded up and safely back on dry land. Lots of willing help again. Then came the touts. I must just look like a mug, they walk passed all the other tourists to get to me. I am a mug, I nearly always fall for it, but not this time. A transfer to the bus station and I'm off to HCMC. The travelsicker is sat next to me this time, but he is saved by the Mekong, we just pulled up to the ferry as his head was bowing into the sick bag. I didn't have to volunteer to go as a foot passenger this time, we all got thrown out. I'll have to find out why this happens. The heavens opened as we approached HCMC and it is crazy, there are hundreds, probably thousands of motorbikes and bikes going through rainwater a foot deep in places. I have not seen anything like this in a big city before. The bus station is about 8Km outside, but the flooding stretches way down the road towards city centre. I got off the bus to the usual barrage of touts, so went for a wee to escape. A moto driver offered to take me into town, so I laughed and pointed at the rain. He showed me he had a spare cape. It would have been an adventure, but I declined. If his motorbike is in as good nick as him, I doubt we would have made it out the bus station. I ended up in a taxi with a puddle in the back and paid not too much over the odds, I THINK. The traffic rules in HCMC are "he who dares, gets through." I thought we were going to collect a few motorbikes and bikes along the way. You'll have to see it to believe the traffic flow, it is beyond words. We got to Pham Ngu Lao, backpackerville and it is a pretty cool place, just as I'd imagined backpacerville. Everything small and packed together. The landlady at the hotel asked where I am from.
England.
London?
No, the North!
Newcastle? I was gobsmacked. She has been 3 times to a friends and loves the Tyne bridge.
Up the stairs, only to the 2nd floor. The Geordie/Vietnamese took my small pack. Your shoes have to come off before you go upstairs here, the place is spotless.
Shoes off, bags off, sandals on and off to check the eateries. I walked the whole street and plumbed for a place where a Scots lass sat with a big bowl of soup. Good choice and a perfect people-watching table. At last, I tried the famed Pho Bo, beef soup but more. It was bloody lovely and so was the Beer Saigon, which considering I'm in Saigon, it should be really.
Bed time I think. You can't find a woman when you want one, well, a willing one, although there are a few moto drivers around here who could probably help. I haven't looked. HONEST GUV!!.

Lazy days.

2008-05-25T19:18:00.000-07:00

5/5 - Not such an early start today, as it is lashing down, so I did a bit of packing and retired to the hammock to repair my pyjamas, they are actually a pair of our Gil's old football shorts, but great pyjamas. There's a lass over the way swinging too and having a read, she spends almost as much time as me in the hammock, they are really great. The sun's out and the girls are on the move, so I suppose I should follow.
I booked a ticket for the ferry back to Rach Gia for tomorrow. There are not plane tickets available for HCMC, another plan crashed and burned. I had better move on from here, Phu Quoc, it is too chilling, I could end up here for months. I may get back with Dung anyway, we've kept in touch by SMS and it sounds like a plan,................ so that wont happen.
I think I'll head for HCMC tomorrow, I need to change some flight dates and I think I'll extend my visa for Vietnam. I've slowed down my running around, not that I have run for many years now. I don't think I am going to get to north Vietnam at the current pace, another trip perhaps.
I jumped on a moto into town, they are typical tourist prices, 1 and a half quid and it is only 50 miles away, rip off. Duong Dong is bigger than I thought, there are loads of fishing boats and a neat market. A neat little bridge over the river too, only one plank missing. I stopped for a coffee and a bit of a watch. The non la hats are very popular with all ages. I'd buy one if I could pack it. The airport is right on the edge of town, very handy, except I don't have a ticket. There is a new international airport opening in 2010, so now is the time to come to Phu Quoc.
Wandering back down the hill, I picked up a baguette, I got the tourist price again. I strolled through the market and the rain started again, so I ducked into the indoor market. It is nearly all plastic plates, bowls etc for the kitchen with a smattering of clothes and jewellry stalls. It is all very narrow, built for the Asian physique, not a strapping, bronzed ardonis like me, it is a good market though. Back over the bridge and a miander. I went into a Hot Toc, I thought it was some kind of food to begin with, but then figured it is a barbers. You'd understand if you'd seen all the roadside signs in Vietnam. I was a bit reluctant to go in, they were playing cards and I didn't want to disturb them. The barber used manual clippers, it must be over 45 years since I have had my hair cut with them. He did a good job, mind you, it isn't a big job to cut my hair.
I found a bench by the road and ate my baguette, very tasty and finished my pineapple from yesterday. They are always peeled and cut in a pattern (now you know Carol). I wondered why and yesterday I watched the lady peel it, the pattern comes from the way they are peeled. I'll show you when I get home. I'll have to buy a honed machette first though, like the one the lady used. You don't mess with these fruit sellers. THE PRICE IS THE PRICE.
This is a neat little town, there are food stalls and a night market setting up along the roadside as evening draws in. I was going to go on the internet, but the shop is shut, so I sat on the step to check the map for another place and was joined by 5 ragamuffin kids. They wanted money, as have a few, but got biscuits. Only 2 of them would let me take their picture and the eldest wouldn't even take a biscuit. They are a right mix of characters and after a bit of fun, all left saying goodbye, except the eldest. A bunch of schoolkids, that I had met yesterday came passed and stopped for a quick hello. The ragamuffin kids were collecting recyclable refuse. I wonder if they get the option to go to school. It has to be paid for on the whole. Some minority tribe kids get free schooling, but not many.
I gave the internet a miss and setoff back, cutting through another hotel. The sea is wild again. Today I couldn't resist, so I stripped, dumped the gear and hit the surf. It was bloody hectic. I ended up 50 metres down the beach with the current in no time at all, so I swam back and ended up 50 metres down again. Sod this for a game of marbles, I body-surfed, in my own way, to the edge and took and age to get stood up and out. It was good fun. I'd no towel, so stood in the sun to dry and it disappeared behind the clouds. I was next to the internet beach place, so nipped in. No power for another 45 minutes or so, which probably explains the manual clippers and the internet shop being shut. I have been wandering around all day not knowing the power was off.
I had an iced coffee, I'm becoming addicted, they are really nice. A lass came across and told me the power was back and stayed for a long chat, giving me the 3rd degree, in a nice way. The staff here are smashing. Sea Star resort, in case you come over, $50 dollars a night though for a bungalow on the beach. Before I had a beer, I thought I should get nearer home, as it is dark and the sea is wild. I stopped for the beer and snap at the same shack as last night, the wind is blasting through tonight. They use authentic, chinese patterned, plastic plates here. I was just going to grab the last shrimp and noodles with my chopsticks and the plate took off in the wind. The dog enjoyed them, sand and all.
The stars are out tonight, between the clouds. This is a beautiful, relaxing place. Tonight I got back to base without any stings or problems, finished packing, a quick read whilst swinging and bed.
HCMC tomorrow.

Honing up my beach bum image.

2008-05-25T19:02:00.000-07:00

4/5 - Up and off for a stroll on the beach. It is spitting most of the time, then raining or sunny the rest. I like walking in the rain, but got told off by a very beautiful lady, saying I would get sick. Rain or no rain, I'm thick, so I kept going. I got offered fruit and massages along the way, but not together. One of the beach hotels I passed had internet, so I sat and looked out at the sea while I blogged. You see the troubles I have to go through to bring you this sintilating recount of an intrepid and fearless traveller. I blogged until the power failed, so perhaps I didn't blog????? Took it as fate and went for a coffee in the attached restaurant, life is hard. One of the waitresses gave me a Vietnamese lesson. People often come over if I am writing or reading to see what I am up to. I suppose it would be called nosey in the UK, but here it gives me a warm, friendly feeling. The sea is very rough today, it must be getting near monsoon time, I was nearly tempted, but I have enough trouble getting out when it is calm, so substituted the swim with a bit more walk and a beer at yet another beach cafe (hut on the beach). The food looks great here, I think I'll stroll back here tonight for some snap. There are not that many places along the beach, it is just about right, every few hundred metres there's somewhere. Time to head back for a nod in the hammock and a music fix. I don't know what woke me, but I feel refreshed now, stiff, but refreshed, so shower and off to the beach again, I'm not fed up of it yet. I can see it from the hammock, so it is handy. I went back to the shack/cafe, the German lass was in from last night, she had returned my torch, whilst I was out. I had fish, whole, in pepper sauce, nothing like the pepper sauce back home, completely different and completely good. A couple of beers and back to base. I managed to get only 1 jeans leg soaked on the way back, the wave crept up on me. Another swing in the hammock and a read, I'm worn out, it's bloody hard work this. If it wasn't for the mozzies, I'd stay in the hammock for the night.

This is the life.

2008-05-18T03:06:00.000-07:00

3/5 - Breakfast on the beach, then a stroll along it to see what is what. There are some nice places along here, but I think I have the best deal by far. Some massage ladies came over and they were so amazed at my body, they started touching me up, well feeling my shoulders and patting belly. I don't think it was the muscle tone that impressed them. They are lovely and friendly and have beautiful smiley eyes. I stopped swooning and carried on to the end of the beach. I knew it was the end because of the big barbed wire fence. The last place on the beach is th poshest and probably has the worst spot, if nearest the town. I stopped for a coffee in their cafe on the beach. I queried the bill at 27,000 dong, 80p. It is usually about 6,000 for a coffee, the service charge was as much as the usual price. Guess where I wont be going again. There is no obvious path from the beach to the road to town, so I wandered through the hotel. It is very posh and has all the amenities, but a bit too posh for me and too costly probably. It has been raining all morning, but light enough to walk in. There's something nice about walking in warm rain. The town is almost completely geared up for tourists. I came in to book some diving, but there is a notice on the shop door saying it is out of season. It looks like I blew that one. There are a couple of other dive shops in town that are still open, but Rainbow divers has a good reputation, so I'll play it safe. The sign outside one of the shops says visiblity is 6 metres, so it would be hard work possibly. The internet shop was next door, so I popped in. It was like kindergarden, screaming kids running around bashing keyboards. They only bashed mine once, then the Grandad look took over, no more hassle. I was glad to get out of there away from the noise. They are gaming mad here and shout at each other as they go along.
Ad-hoc motos stop to offer their services, but they are opportunists, they don't carry a 2nd helmet.
I stopped off to phone the kids, with perfect timing, as the heavens opened and it stopped when I left. Some school kids joined me on the walk back, practicing their English and no doubt taking the mickey in Vietnamese. They are very polite and have a good laugh, which is generally the way over here.
I ducked through another hotel to get back to the beach, also a very nice place. The beach is smashing and I got a dab on walking in the drizzle, so I dumped my gear and took a dip. There's hardly a soul on the beach, it's very tranquil here, apart from the sea. After my bit of exercise I had an excuse for a beer, not that one is needed, I'm on holiday STILL. I even had a curry too. It is similar to Cambodian curry, very coconutty and very nice. A German lass left a few minutes ago and then reappeared, fretting over a bunch of dogs on the beach, so I did my Sir Galahad bit and offered to walk her back. Another character for my pscytzophrenia portfolio. (I'm going to have to learn how to spell.) She was afraid of the dark too, so being Mr Efficient, another character, I took out my torch, if I'd been Mr Clever-Efficient, I'd have offered to walk her back to her place, which is set back from the beach, hence the need for the torch, but I couldn't chat a lass up in a brothel, so I handed over my torch. She is trustworthy, I'll get it back. I stood on something on the way back and got stung, that'll teach me to be so clever. It was a good excuse to have a painkiller in the bar before heading for the hammock and a read before crashing out.

A bit of beach bum practice.

2008-05-17T22:33:00.000-07:00

2/5 - On the moto and off to the boat for Phu Quoc with Coung. It leaves from a fishing village, Ho Bong and is a big old rust bucket, but for $6 it's good. The roof from the steering cabin had to be removed, so the boat would fit under a bridge on the way out to sea. It was crowbared back into place afterwards. I cant help but love S.E. Asia, it makes things fit as it rolls along. This is the river that was packed with fishing boats yesterday and it is no different today. It's like ship dodgems manouvering out of the estuary. The boat is a big old thing and there are only about 20 of us on it. There was a bag left on one seat, it wasn't ticking, it was clucking and then about 5 minutes later it was crowing. The owner took him out for some fresh air about half way and what a fine feather of a cockerel he is. The owner must have bought him for breeding, his back claws have been cut, so he's a lover not a fighter, just like me. If only...........
I was doing a bit of writing later on and he cockerel owner came over to check it out. He picked out a few words like Phu Quoc and Vietnam, but that was it. I like the open curiosity of the Vietnamese, there's no standing off like most Brits.
A big old lad came over for a quick natter and asked to have his photo taken with me. That is a first since Malaysia. Half the people were asleep before we left the harbour and most of the rest not long after. I confess to a power nap too, layed back on my rucksack. The captain had one too, in a hammock slung across the wheel deck. One of the other lads was steering with his feet, his not the captains. The trip was about 3 and a half hours and a nice easy one. Coung had recommended a quiet beach, but when I arrived I went for some noodles and a coffee to ponder again. I went for the more busy place with more amenities. The place I chose is pretty good too. The bungalow is a bit basic, but 50 metres from the beach. The nearest town is Duong Dong (Juom Jom), but I am not off there today. The beach is narrow in most places, but miles long and the sea and sand are smashing. I went for a dip and a beer and can feel complete relaxation taking over already. I even stayed in the resort for tea and a few beers. Not much chance of a starlit sky tonigh, to much light and too many clouds, so an early night for a read in the hammock.

Labour Day.

2008-05-14T19:01:00.000-07:00

1/5 - Labour Day here and everywhere and so the second holiday on the bounce.

I am off out with Coung on his moto. I am getting a definite itch to try one. It was a fair old hike to our first stop, but interesting along the way, lots of shrimp farms. It is big around here, ponds everywhere and loads of villagers have them spread out on the road side or pavement to dry out, before cooking or selling on. Good fodder for the grumpy old man and the hygene laws of the nanny state. They are popular when having a beer, but used in all sorts. Coung tells me shrimp fried rice is delicious, I've added it to the list. We passed over the river bridge in Ba Hong. It was a traffic jam of boats on the river with shrimp and fish everywhere. It's amazing there are any left in the sea, these are just small boats too.

Our first stop is a set of caves the VC used to hide in when fighting the French and Americans. They open out into an inner circle, open to the skies. There are bullet marks everywhere and fallen boulders blocking some of the entrances, fallen from some of the heavy American bombing, but the VC carried on regardless, though there are some graves and shrines scattered around inside and outside. Starvation and lack of clean water killed a lot of VC too. They were a clever lot to out do the power and mass of America with not a lot of heavy weaponary.

We moved into the deeper part of the caves on a dodgy path laid in the water and the power went off, the path became instantly dodgier. It took longer to get back. Coung wasn't keen to take me when the power was on, so he paniced a bit now, but he saved the day with his mobile light. There is a fair old complex down here and I've only seen a bit of it. There's a floating cafe too. There are areas that were hospital areas and cooking areas, not a temporary setup. The hospital area had a few memorial stones, one of a nurse killed in 1945 when fighting the French, she is a heroine around here. We headed out passed the floating cafe and there was a group of people having their picnic on a pontoon. They shouted me over for a glass of rice wine and when they saw I was coming over, topped it up. Mugged again. They offered me a huge mussel, but I declined, now if it had been a muscle....... The lad put the muscle down and offered me a chicken foot, the most expensive part of the bird. I have tried them before and it was a mistake then, so I declined this one. The rice wine was rougher than the one Dung gave me, but it went down, warming me as it did so. This grotto, especially the inner opening is beautiful and must have been more so before the bombing. There are a few bomb craters scattered around outside, now used as ponds, very little gets wasted in Vietnam.

The Vietnames are doing their best to ruin the landscape now by tearing down the grottos and knolls to make cement.

We had a quick iced brew and were off to Chua Hang grotto. There's a temple built into the rocks here, Hoi Son Tu, Sea mountain temple. The way out at the back leads to a nice beach and lots of people on holiday enjoying the seaside and food. There are 2 small islands here, Hon Phu Tu, father and son islands. How they are said to have formed in legend is a long story, but the father one was twice as big as the son, but a typhoon the other year put paid to that and now the son is bigger. A message for us Dads perhaps. The temple was good, but I felt a bit out of place with a lot of the local tourists praying and lighting handfuls of incense. I walked back along the beach and through the market. It is just like a resort back home, lots of old tat for sale, but some good stuff too and some nice fruit. Back on the moto and off to Duong beach for some shrimp in batter, also surprisingluy some rice and more surprisingly, a beer. Cuong tells me this is rest time and offers me the free hammock before jumping into it and crashing, now they are all full. I sat on the beach, it is pretty nice and quiet too. After a while I couldn't resist anymore, so donned my trunks and went for a dip. The sand only goes out about 20 metres and then the silt from the Mekong takes over. It didn't feel so good, squidging between your toes and didn't look good either, but the water was clear.........ish. You can't see the bottom, but it is not manky. I get funny looks when I have my clothes on, but you should see the stares when I'm in my trunks, but they are mostly accompanied by a smile. On the way back to the table, I got pulled over by another table and offered beer, how could I refuse, but I only had a swig. I must look like a charity case in need of help, except to the touts. Coung had picked up 2 women when I got back, but he didn't look too impressed and was glad of the respite I brought. One was non-stop talk, but they eventually moved on and so did we. By the way, the shrimp had too much batter on.

We went to another temple, this one up some steps. I may not look the best going up, but some of the people were in a right state. I get there, just not prettily. I couldn't have done it without the bannisters though. This temple is pretty neat too. It is hacked out of a bute and has a outlook at the back that overlooks Cambodia. There is a shrine at the entrance for 130 people murdered by the Khmer Rouge, they were not the best people to walk the earth. The Cambodians consider the Mekong Delta as Cambodian and there are Khmer temples scattered all over the place, but it is Vietnamese hands for now. Back down to Coung and back into town. I have arranged to go to Phu Quoc. It is an island off the coast and he will drop me at the boat tomorrow, so on the move again. I could have stayed here longer, but have itchy feet again. A quick shower and into town for a fish tea, no chips and a couple of beers. I went over to see the rowdy lads at the Gio Cafe again, tonight they were over-rowdy, so I kept moving chairs for a bit of quiet, but the rowdy ones followed me. The rowdy ones tried to get me to foot the bill, but I told them to F.... Off. Thank goodness they didn't understand. The landlady tried it on too, taking for all the drinks when I paid, but one of the quieter ones gave her and the rowdy lads a right mouthful. From the number of times Vietnam was mentioned I think it was along the lines of "What do you want this man to think of Vietnam and the Vietnamese." I have had a good time with these lads and the waitresses, they accepted me as one of the bunch, but it is time to move on tomorrow, with another good memory.

Where am I now???? Still the same place.

2008-05-14T18:36:00.000-07:00

30/4 - Had a bit of a wander looking for a bike, but gave up and went for some breakfast. I thought it was about time I tried the S.E. Asia breakfast, so ordered some noodles and fried veg and you know what? I should have tried it earlier.
I moved out looking again and got touted for a motorbike outing tomorrow. It wasn't heavy pressure and I think I'll call the lad and set it up later. He warned me off the high pressure tout of yesterday, that could have been beating up the competition I suppose. This lad, Coung, pronounced Cuun, speaks good English too. He also directed me to a bike hire place, so now I have a very small lady shopper to bruise my knees on, no gears and a wobbly pedal too, this should be an adventure. Not just yet though, I walked across the road, parked it and went in the floating cafe for a coffee. I left the bike, without a lock, when I asked for one the lady told me "This is Vietnam, you don't need one." I bet I lose the bugger now.
The iced coffee in Vietnam is great, if I have said that before, it is only because it is great and comes with a free pot of tea, usually. I bought a cake last night, because I was getting withdrawl symptoms, so I got stuck into that. The grumpy old man whispered in my ear "They wouldn't allow you to eat your own stuff in our bloody country."
Ha Tien seems to be a relaxed place, although today is Liberation day from the Yanks, so the flags are out and the place has a buzz about it.
I got on the road to have a butchers around. There are lots of backstreets with shops tucked away down them. The riverside is a smashing place to stroll, like I said Ha Tien is a nice place. I bought a hat for Paige's birthday, a big spender me. It cost so much the postage was more. It should be though, the amount of work that went into posting it. I had to fill out 5 forms, the lady wrapped it for me, which is always a bonus. She did it while doing all the other jobs in the place too.
I went down the market area. Market areas in Vietnam are always interesting and busy, I like to wander through them. A police or army wagon came hurtling through with its siren whaling. It can't happen very often, because everyone stopped watching me and looked at it. I trundled on a bit, my knees getting bluer on the handlebars, then I got my big toe stuck in the front wheel. Difficult to do??? Nah, a piece of cake for me. I will have somemore skinned marks on my tan now. The only thing that got hurt was my pride. People have been laughing at my knees hitting the handlebars all day, now they are rolling in the street. Oh no, that was me. I did feel a fool.
I called it a day for now and went for a shower to get the grit out of my knee and lay on my pit and nodded off. I must be getting old. I know better, I was just tired. After the power nap, I was back out on the street, upright this time. The town is buzzing even more now. Stalls have been setup along the river, mostly aimed at the female contingent, clothes and jewellry. I took the bike back, before I did myself anymore damage and went for some tasty food. I use the chopsticks usually. It seems to give people a laugh. One lady was motioning at me to eat, so she could watch and have a chuckle, we had a bit of a laugh. I am turning into a circus act. I moved on for a coffee with the rowdy lads. There were only a few there, so it was more relaxed, a nice evening watching the world go by on bikes and motorbikes. I do love this life.

Hard to believe, but I'm on the move again. Ha Tien or Rach Gia today

2008-05-11T04:24:00.000-07:00

29/4 - Just to let you know, I can read your comments when I am in Ho Chi Minh city, but seeing as I'm in DaLat, not a lot of good, but I was up to date when I left a few days ago.
Also to let you know, I am going on a 5 day motorbike trip from tomorrow, don't worry, I'm pillion.
I am going to Hoi An through the Central Higlands of South Vietnam. It should be an adventure. I'll let you know, if I ever get that far in the blog. So today is the last installment for perhaps a week. Don't panic due to lack of posting. If you really miss me, you can always text me, but I have a Vietnamese SIM in most of the time, so don't expect a quick answer.

And so to the blog.
Packed again, but it is too nice to leave my box on the Mekong, so I pulled a chair outside and sat on the walkway to wave and shout to passing boats. No mooning, I'm passed that now. I got some great smiles from the boats as they went close by, big and small.
Dung came along to say goodbye, she is off into town on works business. She is a smashing lass, I will miss her. I dumped my bags at reception and paid up then nipped along to see the effervescent Diep. She was bubbling over. She gave me a great cuddle then grabbed my arm and wandered along with me, back to reception. I said goodbye and went to grab my bags, she followed me and grabbed one. I'll miss this one too. She came along to the gate with me, where the moto was waiting, telling everyone we passed, that she hadn't already told, she is my daughter. Another cuddle, a peck on the cheek, a peck on the cheek and I'm off to another town. Which one is still undecided, but I'm getting a bus to Rach Gia, I'll decide on the way there. The first guest house in Vinh Long, that I stayed at told me they could get me a ticket and drop me at the highway, the buses don't come into town anymore. You go to the highway and flag them down as they pass. The lass in reception says they come every 15 minutes, so her brother ran me out on the moto. I got to cross the Mekong bridge, a construction everyone seems very proud of. Some people had pulled their motos over to the side of the highway, at the top of the bridge and were stood gazing down the river. I wonder what the grumpy old man would say about that?
The lass in reception was right, the buses pass every 15 minutes if not more frequently. The buggers don't stop though. We stood about an hour and eventually one pulled over, with a bonus, the aircon worked. Time passed quickly, I am an expert waiter now. This was more like hitch hiking, than catching a bus. It brought back memories of my youth, stood by the side of the road, ever hopeful. The minibus wasn't too packed. We stopped to pick up another lass and she brought a durian on. It must have been open because we went about 100 metres and the driver pulled over and threw it in the back, with my rucksack. The bloody stuff stinks to high heaven. There was an old fellow on the bus with a torn off piece of cardboard, hung around his neck with some twine. I haven't a clue what it said, but he looked like a war refugee. He was all there though. I had bought some coconut pastries for the trip, they are only small, so I tried one. I offered some to the old fellow. I knew I'd done it wrong. He was happy to take the bag, eat a few and put the rest in his pocket for later. I enjoyed mine.
We eventually pulled over at some services, a lot more swish than spiderville in Cambodia. I drew some serious stares and some lovely smiles. My height seemed to be the object of amusement. One woman came over laughing her head off, as she measured the top of her head to my elbow. The Vietnamese are not particularly small and sometimes not that slim. The Chinese influence I suppose.
We moved on fed and watered to another ferry crossing where some volunteers get out and go over on foot. It must be some kind of dodge. I'd seen it before, so thought it would be an experience and volunteered. It worked differently on this ferry. I was stood around doing my Gil the ambassador abroad bit and the co-pilot came over and grabbed my elbow to lead me onto the bus before we docked. Live and learn.
Into Rach Gia and there was only 1 tout waiting, so why did he pick on me?? My height I guess. He wasn't a bad lad. He did try to get me to take a moto instead of the long walk to the bus station, until I pointed out to him on the map that it is 200 metres away. I hadn't decided whether to stay here or move onto Ha Tien, a few hours on another bus. The minibus had dropped us outside a cafe, so I took advantage and sat for an iced coffee and a tea, the tea is free. I sat and contemplated a decision, I decided a cake would be nice, but none were available, so I finished sipping and moved on to catch the bus. The cafe owner told me there were no more buses until the morning, but being a cynical young man, I didn't believe him. I was right. I walked the 200 metres and didn't even need a ticket, there's a conductress. I went to put my rucksack in the hold and a lad took it off me and threw it through the window. It was open. The rucksack got put behind the back seat. I used my head and took the middle seat at the back with loads of leg room. Not so clever. This is a local bus. The conductress is very efficient and looks like she is possibly a part time wrestler, so nobody argues with her. She is authorative with a smile, a 100% character. Anyway, my leg room disappeared mostly. All the floor is filled with boxes or stools to sit on. It is all very orderly, not like the cram them on job in India. Still there must have been 50 people, all seated on a 35 seater bus. The wrestler recognised the length of my legs and left me a bit of foot room between the boxes. It is all very friendly, people helping each other and smiling. Leaning on each other and nodding off. An old fella sat next to me, scrunched his legs up on the seat and then sat a young 'un on his knee. I felt like a right old croc. 2 young lasses who were sat next to me, got off, so we moved along a bit and the old fella just leaned on my leg. It made me feel like one of the family.
We rolled into Ha Tien in the dark and the same procedure as usual, someone comes on and grabs your bag, takes it to his moto and tells you where he is taking you. Once we got things straightened out, we headed for my choice. I was told it was closed, but it wasn't. It should have been, the steps were huge and the lift out of order, they asked for too much, then halved it when I started to walk. This is the first time I've had the hugely overcharging experience in Vietnam. A lad had latched onto the moto and followed me to the hotel room and was nagging and nagging and nagging for business, he eventually got the picture and left me alone.
I wandered to find some food, but there was not a lot open, so I picked on a street stall and had something that sounded like paxo salt, but I'm fairly sure it was Saxo who made it, so it wasn't. It was smashing though, noodles, bean sprouts, nuts, fried egg and spicey sauce, probably a few unknowns too, but as long as I don't know about them..................
A bit more wandering to get my bearings. There are loads of billiard places. No wonder Trung and Lim gave me a beating. Some young lads beckoned me over to sit with them on the street outside a cafe. We didn't understand each other, but got along famously with the help of the LP. It was a canny night, they were good fun. I spotted the leader, so made friends with him. It came in handy when one of the other lads tried to get me to foot the bill. The leader fired him off. He then bought mine for me. We could have been good mates. They were a rowdy lot, in there 20's, but a good laugh. The 2 young lasses serving on got some stick, but when they said "Closed", all the lads scattered, the girls were in charge.
Home, read and bed, pretty much in that order.

7.00 breakfast again

2008-05-09T22:16:00.000-07:00

28/4 - Packed and over to the riverside cafe for another 7.00 am Trung meeting. Phuc was there too, still said the same as you thought. A little later a young lady and her sister showed up and sat at a table nearby. They rent a shop from Trung, he lives upstairs. They got badgered into joining us. The lass who rents it is a beautician. She looked at me and just sighed. I think the sigh said, beyond help. She was determined to teach me some Vietnamese, which was very nice. I can now say "I love you glass." in Vietnamese. I have forgotten the rest. Her sister just kept scowling at me, but between the 2 of them, they livened up the morning. Trung and Phuc can sit and doss for Vietnam, so I disappeared for a while to pay some bills on the internet, that my secretary daughter had informed me of. When I got back Phuc and the ladies were gone, but Lin was there from Vinh Sang, not a good swap. I am staying at Vinh Sang tonight, the night I was cornered into a night or so ago. It is on the island An Binh, so I picked up my bags and we left for the ferry. Trung is not so confident on his moto, but we got there in the end. I was not sure about coming over here. I thought they would leave me to have a bit of free time, but not so, Trung and Lin escorted me everywhere, which is good, but the conversation is not very fluent and can get hard work, but they are showing me around, so a bit of English help is a fair swap. Being unsure was soon wiped away anyway. There was a couple of hundred metres to walk with my bag, Trung took the small one, so I had a real dab on when we made it. Diep, my unofficial, adopted, daughter came running up to me and gave me a big hug, sweat and all, she tried to rip the rucksack off my back to carry it for me and when I wouldnt let her, she started wafting me with her nun la, (I think) Vietnamese coned hat, when I dumped my pack she was pulling my T-shirt away from my back and wafting me. She is a lovely character. Dung came over to say hello too. She is a stunner. Diep had to disappear, but Dung sat with us for some fried noodles and veg and took pity on me filling up my bowl when she spotted it was empty. Yet another slight on my chopstick skills, or she is just polite, or probably both. I got checked into my room. A wooden box on stilts over the Mekong and very nice too. Lin seems to be running the show and suggests we go for a swim. Trung had spotted my fins and was dying to try them out. Lin helped himself to my coconut toffees and started throwing them down his neck. I told him to leave them on my bed, so was a bit miffed when he produced them from his pocket later and finished them off. The swim was in the Mekong. I have been dying to go in. It is a bit murky and like a warm bath. It was a good do. I am not getting enough exercise on this trip, so the more the better. Luckily enough I am not getting too much beer either. Mind you I could meet up with our Beccy in Australia. We were sat drying off and Lin is hustling us to go and get changed to go for karaoke in the bar/restaurant. I was getting a bit hacked off with being driven along, so dragged my heels a bit. When we got back to the room, he was hustling us to get dressed, so I dragged my heels a bit and sat watching the Mekong, chilling. My sisters may be right, perhaps I am an awkward bugger. Trung made a brew too, now this is more like it. Hustle time arrived again, but now was changed from karaoke to billiards without pockets, French billiards. It must be a pasttime here, because these 2 gave me a right hiding. It's hustle time again and we are off for karaoke, so I dragged my heels and sipped my iced coffee. My sisters are right. Lin is becoming a real pain in the backside, but once he sat at the keyboards he's pretty good. There's not another soul in the place, but Trung is giving it rice on the karaoke, he is pretty good too. Dung came over and they sang some duets. She's a singing stunner and she got even better when she took us for some rice wine, free rice wine. Can it get any better. It is very nice. I think this is what the rowdy old fellas were feeding me the other day, but watered down. This stuff is spirit, not wine, it gives that warm glow as it travels down your throat. It is brewed here in the bar. The still is at the back. Apparently, like all good things, it comes in different qualities. This was good stuff. Lin had to go to work elsewhere, what a shame. Dung is trying to learn English, so she brought her book over and we had a bit of a lesson. I can't help getting the feeling I am not the best person to teach English. Diep has been busy all day, so far, but keeps popping over and introducing me to her mates as her Dad. It always gets a laugh, perhaps because she is Vietnamese and 4 foot nothing and I am 6 foot 2 and white. Before I knew it mealtime was back. I let Trung do the ordering and I ordered a beer. His English is coming on a bit, but I get respite during the food. He can chuck it down his neck. The food was a do-it-yourself seafood hotpot, lau ca, I think. It was smashing again. When we were done, the lass who had been waiting on, Xuan, I don't have a clue how to say it, came over and sat with us. The staff here are really friendly and casual, except for Diep, she is friendly and bubbly. Trung has to translate, Xuan is divorced and looking for a husband as far as I can tell. Her 5 year old son is living with his Dad, because he is rich and Xuan works all month getting 2 days off only, to go and see her son. Something stinks and it is not me. Lots of fodder here for the grumpy old man. She is very nice, but I didn't volunteer to be hubby 2. I am not sure if she is sizing up Trung. Dung turned up after work, to make divorcee number 4. It is like Blind Date. We had a natter, with Trung translating still, now he is flagging. I think the translation is less than 50% good, but a damn site better than I can do. We called it a night as he was flagging and had to moto home, the electric had gone again too. He never seems to work, so that wasn't a problem. He was telling me that Dung supports her parents and brother. The country seems in good state, but perhaps it is not. He told me that inflation is very high and the price of rice has gone up again this week. Bloody politicians are useless.
Trung came back to my room to pick up some gear and tried to arrange a 7.00 pick up for coffee, but managed to get out of that one, it was a close call. It's been a smashing night and still is, so I dragged my chair out onto the walkway around my box and contemplated the Mekong and read a bit. Some lads had setup some rods dangling over the edge, through the weeds after catfish. It is loved around here. One of the lads appeared and spoke great English with a French accent. He is Vietnamese and lives in Quebec. He comes back to Vietnam to miss the Canadian winters, what a good life. He suddenly scarpered, he had a bite on a rod on the other walkway. There was a right rucus and some running around, so I went over in the dark to see 3 of them land a catfish about 12 - 15 lbs. I don't think they are regular fishermen, one of them ended up in the Mekong amongst the weeds. I called it quits and went to bed leaving these 3 excited like little school boys. I heard a rucus in the night. When I met the lad in the morning, they had caught a bigger catfish later on. He was still excited in the morning. He had photos to show his family.

Back on the Mekong, I love it.

2008-05-09T21:20:00.000-07:00

27/4 - Another early start. I'm off on a boat trip at 7.00. Trung tried to get me to meet him for coffee at 6.00, but I managed to side step that one, I used diplomacy and said NO!!!
I expected the boat trip would be full of tourists. Lam picked me up at the hotel spot on time and we walked along the riverfront and jumped in his boat, just me and him, pretty exclusive. It could do with a lick of paint, but it is just the job. We set off across the Mekong river, heading for Cai Be floating market. This delta is a huge set of huge rivers. I love cruising on the Mekong, it is very relaxing and there's plenty of traffic of all sorts of boats and lots of action going on, so there is plenty to keep me amused as I chill on my seat. We passed loads of big boats stacked high with rice husks that are used for burning. Each boat has its own crew of 4 or 5 and big wicker baskets that they use to load and unload the husks manually. I've seen the lads in action, they earn their corn. On every one of these boats there was 1 lad steering and the rest were fast on in hammocks suspended at the back of the boat. They can sleep at the drop of a hat around here. We passed several villages where retailers, wholesalers and workshops opened out onto the river for ease of loading. It seems like it would be a good way to live, by boat, more relaxed than the car mayhem in the UK, perhaps we should flood the country, perhaps we wont have to with Mr Global Warming having a say. Is that the Grumpy old man chipping in again?
Lam pulled over at a petrol station for a few litres. He was telling me that his boat was kitted out as a home and 7 of them sailed around the Mekong Delta for 2 years, working as they went. It had to be cleared with the police before they could set off and an itinerary given, although I can't see it being very exact for 2 years, or perhaps it is only me that can't stick to a plan. He said he had a bit of problem with some locals shopping him to the police, because they thought he was illegal and some asking for money or they would shop him, but when he threatened to go to the police, they backed off. He was saying he had a few police searches on the way. There is a lot of smuggling goes on around the Delta, especially to Cambodia, from what I hear. I think I could handle cruising around the Delta working along the way. I wonder if they have wifi on the delta, so I can dial in.
It took about an hour to get to the floating market, but it flew by. At the market, there are big boats full of produce. 1 boat may be full of 1 product, like pineapples or 2 or 3 products. They are mostly fruit and veg. The big boats sell onto smaller boats, or other big boats. The suppliers are generally farmers who have sailed into market. One boat was off-loading pineapples in a production line of lads, throwing them 2 at a time. I bet that owner was a happy farmer. There was a young lass loading up sacks and weighing them, with what looked like dirty potatoes. Each boat seems to be a family or couples business. A lot of the customers are women, or groups of women in boats. We passed a few boats with a group of women having a good natter on the way to the market, as one steered the boat. It is a big produce market and quite impressive, in fact very impressive, to me. There is a cathedral overlooking matters from the shore, so no dodgy dealing please. We did a circuit of the market, down both sides. It is village life on water and very pleasing to see.
We headed across the river, still the Mekong I think, there are so many big rivers and we stopped at a coconut candy making place. Coconut toffees to us Brits. 3 women are making them from scratch and wrapping each one by hand, so Lam showed me the process. I had to buy some, the samples were lovely. We had a brew, local tea, which is also lovely and a few more samples.
We carried on crossing through an island on small tree lined rivers, very picturesque, this is a smashing place and I didn't remember the name. Along the way there are several boats full of mud, with blokes hoying it onto the banks to build them up against flooding. No wonder the blokes around the Vietnam countryside are mostly well toned, they put in some work. Perhaps I should volunteer for a few days work, except I'd get the sack. These rivers are really lovely. I spotted a couple of types of kingfishers along the banks, similar to back home and just as beautiful. Some farmers passed us going to market with boat loads of rambutan, a spikey fruit that tastes almost as good as it looks. Next stop was a bonsai garden, I guess we are on the tourist route. I had a wander around, while Lam hit the hammock. I checked out the fruit trees as much as the bonsai trees, there's all sorts around here. I went to join Lam and a plate of fruit was dished up with more very nice tea. This is the life. The grapefruit are huge and left a week to get rid of the bitter taste, a shame as I like it. The mangoes are juicy and tasty and there is another fruit whose name I forget, that is very sour. These are the ones Jack the lad gave me in Chau Doc, but are a different colour, so I was duped. I skipped the bananas and we sailed off again. We were headed for a nursery garden, which I was not sure about, but Lam's mate phoned and Lam came along and said he had an idea. Instead of the nursery garden, we could go to see his friend, about 20 minutes away and have some rice wine, he is having a party after coming home for a few days. It sounded like a good idea to me. It was, but there was one problem, when we got there, we went to the wrong friend. Same name, different bloke. The second one lived about an hour away, so we gave it a miss and headed back to Vinh Long. I got some extra time on the Mekong, which was good. We were going to do a bit of catfish fishing, but I think that idea timed out. Lam saw me looking at the nets he had on the boat, that's where that idea came from. I have had a good day, a smashing experience. I'm easily pleased, despite what you lot say.
When we got back to town, the electricity was off, so that knocked the e-fix on the head. I wandered aimlessly. Surprised??? Me neither. Picked up a baguette from a street corner lady, not one of those street corner ladies, a one selling baguettes. It had all sorts on it. I found a bench in a pagoda grounds and got stuck in. A couple of kids wandered over, closely followed by their Mams and a couple more kids. The Mams were getting their chops around some tea in the pagoda garden when I strolled in like John Wayne with a wiggle. The Mams didn't speak English, but still managed to get across the message "What's wrong with your legs?" but it is hard to gesticulate muscular dystrophy. I keep trying and everyone keeps nodding, but somehow I think the message is not getting across. Without any English, one of the Mams also managed to ask for some money for each of her 3 kids, but I didn't go for it and handed out my packet of biscuits instead. The kids seemed happy. I don't think I'll ever get to finish a packet of biscuits.
A clothes and jewellry street market setup whilst I was sitting and chewing the fat, in both senses of the words, so I took a wander through. It was pretty good and I bought a couple of hair clips for Diep and Dung when we go to see them tomorrow, then wandered back to the river. It is like a Gil magnet. There are street vendors everywhere, especially in the evenings. I bought some fried snacks from one, if you want to know what they were, you will have to ask her. They were tasty though and she laughed when I nodded everytime she pointed to something to put on them.
The power came back, so I thought I'd hit the internet. Shows how much I know. The first one was closing at 21:15 and the second has a little old lady, who everytime she sees me just shouts NO NO NO. It's the second time I've tried with the same reaction, first time it was full. She needs to learn some manners, she has got the grumpy old lady thing all wrong. I gave up with the internet plan and went back to my balcony with a can of beer to listen to the karaoke and read. A better plan by far.

7 a.m. breakfast, bloody hell.

2008-05-08T03:10:00.000-07:00

26/4 - Trung was waiting for me at the cafe and enthusiastic to brush up his English. He invited his tennis mate, Phuc, said almost as you thought. We sat about 3 hours trying to chat. I was knackered at the end of it and needed to relax, so I hired a bike and peddled out of town, looking for a temple, which as normal, I missed, but as normal, for the best. I ended up on an up and down paving stone track along the side of the river, not the Mekong, a small tributary. It was part residential and part industrial. Rice mills, coffin maker, carpenters, a good mixture of professions. I did a dodgy U turn when the track narrowed, got closer to the river and became dirt. I thought it for the best. As normal, I found the temple on the way back, but it was shut for dinner or prayers, probably the latter, so I carried on and hit the school rush hour. Not like the UK one, said the grumpy old man, much healthier. Hundreds of kids on bike with lovely, silky, white uniforms. I survived all the hellos and smiles, did a few laps of somewhere I'll never find again, had a baguette with heaven knows what on and went for a siesta. I'm getting the hang of this siesta lark. Trung was going to pick me up on his motorbike at 17:00, but rang to change it to 16:00, which curtailed the siesta. It has been overcast all day, which was nice and now it has started spitting, but undetered we set of for a ferry across the Mekong to An Binh island. I was going to go over on the bike, but Trung offered his services and I didn't like to say no, even though I was a bit unsure about the language struggle. Off the ferry onto a short piece of road, then onto more of a pavement than a road, like this morning and we ended up at a mini zoo, park, resort kind of place, Vinh Sang. I had no idea this was the plan, but it was OK. Some peacocks and peahens, horses, crocodiles, that you can fish for, but really it means feed. Some ostriches that you can ride, a couple of bears and a few monkies crammed into cages. The grumpy old man would say "They wouldn't allow this back home", but this isn't back home. When we were passing the restaurant to the crocodiles, a young lass, Diep, came running out shouting hello and waving like crazy. She is a smashing lass and very excited to see such a good looking young man, but I never saw him pass. She works in the restaurant, but wandered around with us. She is very bubbly and it is infectious. Her face lights up when she smiles. She looks about 19, but is 22.
The rain kicked in heavy now, so we hovered around outside the restaurant and were eventually persuaded inside. Trung ordered some food, very nice squid and beef and I ordered a beer. The food is good and I was not surprised to find the karaoke in full swing. There was a lot of traditional singing, which I was not sure about to begin with, but it grew on me, especially when a lovely lass, Dung, pronounced Yum, got singing, she has a lovely mellow voice. Some classical music was played too and that was good. I'm not sure I would buy the traditional music. Perhaps if I understood Vietnamese as the songs tell stories. The guitar used is very highly strung, that can be a bit wearing. Anyway, after the music the guitarist came to join us, Lin. He is an old college buddy of Trung. Diep came over too, as she was done waiting on, she really is lovely and with Trung and Lin interpretting, she asked me to be her Dad. I tried to explain through Trung that it would not be easy, me being in England and her in Vietnam, but couldn't get the message across, so agreed. I now have an adopted daughter. She was chuffed to bits. It was very touching. I was embarrassingly chuffed. Lin was continually trying to get me to cough up dosh or presents for Diep and Dung, but Trung spotted it and put a stop to it, or seemed to. Lin was also trying to marry me off to Dung. If I was only 20 years younger. She seemed a little interested too, or perhaps that was just wishful thinking on my part. Lin then tried to match her up with our Gil, but I explained Rebecca would not be happy. Dung seems keen to leave Vietnam. I think she is still upset after her divorce. This trip is turning me into an agony aunt. Dung is a very beautiful, young lady, especially dressed in the traditional clothing. It is easy to see how blokes come to S.E. Asia and go home with a wife. I was a bit worried when Dung and Diep said I was handsome, but then I remembered they guessed Trung's age at 38 and he is 50. I think politeness is a local characteristic. Don't worry siblings, I'm not love struck....................... Yet.
On the return ferry, I was cornered into going to the resort, by Lin and Trung. I held out for only one night though. Tonight was a brilliant night, even with the electric off for about 3 hours, so it didn't seem like too bad an idea. It was like being with a few friends for a chat and I got the 3rd degree in a nice way. The rain started as we were leaving, so Dung issued us with complimentary capes, which were just the job.
When we left the guesthouse, earlier this evening, the receptionist told me the doors close at 23:00 and she was good to her word. We arrived at 23:10 and they were shut, but we managed to rouse the lad asleep behind them. Lucky break.

Here we go again.

2008-05-08T02:37:00.000-07:00

25/4 - On the move again. I got a good seat on the not too crowded mini-bus. Everytime we pull up anywhere food sellers appear out of the ground. Sticky rice and corn on the cob seem the favourite offerings. The drivers on these minibuses are crazy. The rule is beep your horn then go. The horn seems to make it all OK. I can't believe I haven't seen an accident. I have been tempted to hire a motorbike, but watching these buses gives me second thoughts. With the Mekong river being so big, there are very few bridges, so ferries are common and we rolled up at one. The driver issues tickets to selected passengers and they get off the bus, walk onto the ferry and get back on the bus at the other side. What's that all about Grandad? Beats me Paige. Just as we are about to board the ferry, a lady selling corn on the cob jumped onto the bus and crouched down, so she could not be seen from outside. Once we were onboard, she nipped out. A free ride I guess, she did well too, most of her bag full was gone by the time we rolled off and she had the return leg to go. "A blind eye springs to mind here and it was good to see. The road after the ferry, wasn't. It was just a succession of potholes of varying sizes. We stopped along the way to pick up a young lass, but before she could sit down the driver jammed her fingers in the sliding door. OUCH!!!!! It took ages to get the door open too. A bottle of the cure for everything appeared out of thin air. Tiger Balm. Everyone seems to carry one. It is used for travel sickness, to hide the smell of durian and apparently to fix trappedinthedoor fingers. She came and sat next to me, so I turned into our Mick, Dr Brooks and produced the paracetemol. We couldn't communicate, but she took them anyway. 5 minutes later I was hoping there are no allergies to paracetemol, but if there are "They probably only exist in the west" said the grumpy old man.
The bus made it to Vinh Long without injuring anymore of the passengers and it pulled over what seemed to be a very long way out of town and that is because it was. Even the other passengers acted surprised when I got out. There was a moto handy, with spare helmet, so it must be kosha...ish. I donned the helmet and hopped aboard, with a Gil hop. The driver knew the Guesthouse I wanted and didn't offer me any others, so that made life easier. Things are a little dearer here, $10 a night, but it has aircon, a first on my tour. I had a kip and then a wander. I bought 3 lottery tickets from an old dear, while I was sat on a bench on the river prom. I was having a bit of crack with 3 ladies at the food stalls by the kerb and a bloke came to join me, Trung, pronounced Chum. Don't ask me, I'm a Mackem. Unbelievably, he wanted to practice his English. I must have said or gestured something wrong to one of the ladies, because she started gobbing off and took the right hump. When I asked Trung what she said, he said he didn't know. Very diplomatic. There goes the Anglo-Vietnamese relations. Trung is an interesting bloke. Divorced and his wife and kids live in the States. He talked for about an hour or so and we arranged to meet for a coffee. 7 a.m. tomorrow. How did I fall for that one? I thought I had better move now I didn't have Trung to protect me from the food stall lady, so I wandered off into town. Vinh Long has a real nice feel about it, nestled on the Mekong. It feels like a working town, busy and never quiet not even during the night, but I like the place. The market here just seems to keep sprawling and spills over into the side streets and onto the kerbs. It runs right along the outside of the hotel. IT is mostly fruit, tons of durian. YAK!!!
I picked out a posh looking restaurant and sauntered in. I ordered hot pot. Nothing like Lancashire hot pot, but interesting. A group of ladies on the next table were having a right old laugh at me trying to use chopsticks. That bruised my chopstick ego, but I got the thumbs up later on to apply Tiger balm to the bruise. In between taking the mickey out of me, the ladies were giving it rice on the karaoke. They had a nerve laughing at me. Karaoke is everywhere, the Vietnamese love it. I stolled along back to the hotel and was going to have a beer in the cafe over the road, by the river, but it was heaving and the karaoke was in full swing, so I picked up a can of Tiger beer not balm, at reception and sat for a read on the balcony, then crashed out to the karaoke over the road. I must have been tired.

Off and around Chau Doc on the bike again.

2008-05-05T04:51:00.000-07:00

24/4 - I had an early night, so was up and off out on the bike early doors. I headed for Nui Sam, Sam mountain, a few kilometres out of town. It is more like Sam Molehill, but I still didn't walk up it. It is very picturesque and am told the Cambodian border can be seen from up there, but I almost, or may have, cycled over it yesterday, so I don't need to see it now and just cycled around the bottom for a while. I cycled through several villages. They seem busy, but lazy and very friendly. A good mix. In one village there was a wedding being setup and the marquee had been setup over one lane of the road. I'm not sure I'd like to be in the marquee after sunset, it had better be well lit. I passed a school, where all the kids were lined up in the yard with a teacher giving instructions to the slow beat of a drum and they all stretched to the beat. Afterwards they all ran around wildly picking up leaves. It didn't take long for the yard to be clear, even with the of shouting and waving to the mad dog on a bike at the gate. The kids in the primary schools all wear the same uniform, white shirt, blue bottoms and a read scarf and it all looks very neat too. In secondary, the girls wear the national dress, trousers and a long fitted dress, split to the waist and the material is silky. They look exceptionally smart. THere must be some knack to keeping them clean.
I pulled over for a break in some shade and a bloke walks out of a pork butchers, this sounds like the start of a joke, it wasn't for the pig, it had very recently been slaughtered and was still bleeding all over the road. The bloke threw it in a cage on the back of his motorbike and set off passed me. I was going to tell him it didn't need the cage, but thought better of it.
I did another U turn, I am an expert at them now and set off back. I passed a lass with a barrow selling, guess what, water melons, so guess what, U turn and I bought one, about 30p, not so big as yesterdays and this lass had a knife. I was trying to explain about cutting it up, when an older lady walked over and butchered it for me. I think she told me to call in her place down the road, there was a lot of laughter and gesticulating, so I hot footed it down the road, as she still had the knife in her hand. I meandered back until I spotted a shady spot to sit and get stuck into the water melon. A few old fellas cycled past, they always have a quip and a smile as they pass. That seems to be general in Vietnam, the old fellas are characters.
I think the schools must do some shift system, as there is an older set of kids heading for the school I saw. I will have to check it out. With half the melon devoured, I set of and hit the hill back into Nui Sam. I was struggling a bit and a big lad came out of a cafe to cheer me on, then he came out and gave me a push, just like in the Tour de France, only I am faster. It was easy after his push. There are kids all over on push bikes now, so it could well be shift change. I passed one lad, he was stood still, then he caught me up and told me the bike stand had dropped down, it was when I did a leap of the kerb, about a foot high, bit of an Evil Knevil. We carried on side by side having a broken chat, then he veered off as he was home, so I battered on alone, passed a wagon train of buffalo. I kid you not. Back into town for a kip, I'm playing it the local way, up early, a kip and then back out buzzing around, but when I woke up I didn't feel like buzzing. I dragged myself out for a look around the indoor market. It is a womans place really, but outside was interesting, lots of fish, dried, smoked, pickled, the only kind not there was stuffed. There are scores of types of fruit too. Guess what??? I bought nowt. I cycled around a bit, then settled on a bench in a plaza to watch a local food stall and try to work out what to get. It is exercise time again. Here they are playing a game like hacky sack football, only using what looks like a spring loaded rufty tufty cross between a shuttlecock and an arrow. They have a laugh and get a sweat on doing it. Some are very skillful with it.
A young lad, 13, came over to sit and chat. He's a proper jack the lad. I doubt he goes to school, but his English isn't bad. I tried to enlist him to help me know what was going on at the food stall, but his English wasn't that good. THen I tried to get him and his mate to come and have some food at the stall with me, but he wasn't up for it. I think he was after fags. He disappeared a few minutes later, came back and flashed a big smile at me and a 1000 dong note, 8p. He disappeared again and came back with a lighted tab. I gave him the grumpy old man charade of "you are killing yourself". The lad sat opposite found my acting funny and copied me, having a chuckle. Jack the lad fetched me some fruit over to try. I've been going to buy some, but I am glad I never, unlike the Murphys they were very bitter. He insisted I try another and they grew on me a bit, but only a bit. Even he twisted his face when he ate them. I hadn't built up enough knowledge or courage to attack the food stall, so we parted, him to smoke himself to death and me to drink myself to the same place. I had a beer back at the hotel after a nosh and a chat with a smashing little lass, who gave me the low down on the food stalls. I would have been alright with my knowledge. The most popular drink I saw and was going to try, turns out to be soya milk and ice. THat was a lucky escape, but it is so popular, I may have to try it to see why. The little lass is really friendly. She is a shrimp and has a cheeky face. She is practicing her English and educating me to Vietnamese. She worked in Saigon for 5 years, but is very happy to be back in Chau Doc. Saigon seems to be the favoured name over Ho Chi Minh city.
Off to bed to forget all the Vietnamese she has taught me. I am hopeless.

Day one in Chau Doc.

2008-05-03T20:38:00.000-07:00

23/4 - A bit of a lie in and a bit of a stretch and the only plan is to have some breakfast and hire a bike and it worked out. Another lady shopper which my knees hit the handlebars, but it has gears, 2. I didn't push my luck and go against the traffic, so went with the flow, did a couple of rights then straight on to the river, where I thought I had better make a turn, so went left and out of town through some of the residential area. Eventually a bridge showed up, so I went over it, at a walk, as did everyone, it is small and steep. A woman coming down the other way was digging her heels in to try and stop her overloaded barrow running her over. When I got to the apex, a lad indicated, very strongly, that I should go back. I didn't know why, so I waited until he had gone and carried on regardless. I hit full steam ahead down the bridge and saw a sign saying Frontier Area. I wasn't sure what that meant and being an ex-trained killer, the Highlander, a cowboy and phscizophrenic I kept going.

I didn't think it possible, but the Vietnamese seem more smiley than the Cambodians, or they know what the sign means. The Cambodian smile is like a whole face glow. The Vietnamese smile is a friendly, bright-eyed glow. I love them both. I went through a village with lots of people lying around in hammocks or sitting around, so I found a crash barrier under a tree, over looking the Mekong and sat around too. A few inquisitive people came along and eventually left, so I left too, heading out into the countryside. I passed a group of older fellas sitting in the shade around a table, they gave me loads of chat and cheers as I went passed, there were lots of others along the way with smiley faces and friendly hellos. The houses eventually started to thin out and a man made pond appeared and looked like it was boiling, so being a nosey bugger, I pulled over. It is a fish farm and the fish are constantly feeding on the top. By the amount of feed these blokes are emptying in, the fish must be real Chubby Checkers. I thought we fed the fish a lot when we went to Ireland. These blokes are rowing around and just emptying sack after sack into the pond. There were at least 20 x 50Kg sacks went in. Down the road, there are loads of these farms. The Vietnamese are an organised people. The fields are lush green, whereas in Cambodia they are parched brown. Cambodias time will come, I hope. Riding along I can see the irrigation setup in full flow, it is well setup. I ended up at another get off and push bridge, so I did and then the road turned into a dirt track. It was well rutted. I didn't know what would fall apart first, me or the bike, so I headed back after a mile or so. The rowdy group of old fellas were still sat there and just as rowdy. They beckoned me over and who am I to refuse an invitation. I was giving a rousing welcome followed by a glass of what tasted like watered down pernod. Now I know why they are so rowdy. The oldest lad made a young lass of about 10 give me the glass again and shake hands. She was a bit reluctant, perhaps that is why he pushed her. My winning Grandad smile won her over in the end, or the big push he gave her. I was given the glass about 6 times and then they saw I was enjoying it too much, so waved so long. Down the road, I passed a lass pushing a barrow, selling water melons and pineapples. I went on about 100 metres, did a U turn and went and bought a water melon, a big bugger and she had no knife to cut it up, trauma, so I put it in the shopping basket and carried on until I got a friendly set of waves from a little shop, so another U turn and I asked if they could slice up my water melon. It was no problem and there was a lot of lauging and joking going on around me and some water melon got thrown at one point. I think some P taking was going on with the lady cutting it up. I left half the melon as payment, not that they wanted anything, we had a laugh and that was enough. They asked me to stop and eat it there, but being bashful and a sloppy eater, I moved on, back to the crash barrier from this morning and ate half of my half. I was joined by Vietnam's chief Mr Grumpy. If he had a smile in him, he kept it well hidden. He scanned my LP with an0ther lad, moaned a bit then left. He gave half a smile. I think I wore him down.

You may not believe this, but you should, me being honest Gil Brooks. I was sat thinking "I could go a coffee and a piece of cake." Less than a minute later, a lady walked down the road pushing a barrow of cakes. What could I do but buy a couple, only small ones and they were lovely, just the brew missing. With my engine now stoked up, I set off back. I had a few races with kids along the way, but didn't manage to win one, even when they were 2 up. I got back to the 1st "get off and push " bridge and a policeman pulled me over. Not bad??? 3 months on the road and my first arrest. (Only joking little Sis.) I guess I shouldn't be cycling around here after all. He motioned me back over the bridge and made a point of showing the Frontier sign, but too late, I'd already had a good day, he couldn't spoil it. Back over the bridge, through the town and out the other side, well, some side anyway. I stopped for an e-fix, the place was full of school kids and most of them gaming. Next stop, my first Vietnamese coffee and it is kick ass coffee. I had to put some sugar in it. Luckily a pot of Vietnamese tea came with it, free. I am getting a taste for it. Kheong gave me some in Cambodia. Buzzing from the coffee, I broke the sound barrier back into town and headed for the riverside prom. The rush hour has started and you have to be on your toes, there's motorbikes everywhere. The Lexus 4x4 and other flash cars as in Cambodia, don't abound here, suggesting a fairer share of the wealth and less corruption. I hope the Cambodian government hitmen haven't found my blog. I pulled over at a bench on the prom. There are loads of people doing laps of the prom, all ages too. Eventually, about 6 schoolgirls descended on me. This was a real English lesson. THey got their school books out and another 2 older lasses joined, but they were more interested in the LP. We were having some fun and some difficulty, when an old fellow joined us. He had been doing laps of the prom on his bike with his 1 year old nephew as up front pillion. He spoke pretty good English, so the lesson picked up. He used to work in Saigon for different English speaking companies, but that was 30 years ago, so he confessed to being a bit rusty. The girls left, then shortly came back. I don't know what happened there. The littlest one was the loudest and had the biggest smile. Next time the girls left for good. Me and the old fellow had a bit more chat, then he went off to do more laps and I went to watch some lads playing volleyball on a sandy patch by the river. Evening seems to be exercise time. Perhaps I should take note, instead of cycling around in the midday sun, like some mad dog. I headed back to the hotel, too late to visit the market next door, so had a beer and some nosh and spoke with the hotel staff, they are very friendly and like to practice English.

http://picasaweb.google.com/brooks.gilbert/OntoVietnamAndChauDoc

Can I make it to Vietnam this time???

2008-05-03T02:05:00.002-07:00

22/4 - Off to Vietnam. I have enjoyed Cambodia, but am ready to leave. The sights are mostly temples, or perhaps I haven't seen the right places. The best part about Cambodia has been the people. I have had a great time talking to and meeting them. Even the scammers are generally light-hearted. It is a shame the people are being conned and dumped upon by their government. The country looks to be developing fast, so perhaps the people will get a better deal, but I have a feeling it will only mean the rich will get richer and the cities become a pain to visit. I hope I am wrong.
Off to get the AC bus for 50Km on the VN57 highway and then a slow boat to Vietnam. There could be a song title in there. The bus is a mini bus and the AC is the windows being open, the unit was duff. We drove across Phnom Phen, about 3 miles, then stopped at the hotel that owns the minibus, just long enough for anyone to have breakfast. These people aren't daft. At least the minibus isn't packed, once we set off again. UNTIL we stopped to pick up 3 monks and the driver touted for 3 more people as we passed a market on the town outskirts. Now the bus is full. We arrived at the boatyard and the minibus hightailed it. We sat long enough for everyone to have lunch. That is everyone in Cambodia. I think they were repairing a leak and a load of bikes had to be put on. Eventually we were summoned down the backyard to the boat, over some very dodgy boards crossing the water to the boat, but I made it, carrying all my gear too. More luck than judgement, with no rail to hang onto.
The boat is pretty keen. An old thing that gets coaxed along. Does it remind you of anyone?
My fellow passengers on this luxury wooden thing are 2 Yanks, an Israeli, a Dutchman and a Vietnamese lady. I think she is smuggling Westerners in for the Vietnamese slave trade. I could become a forced gigalo with any luck. Pascal, the Dutch lad had jumped onto the boat roof, so I did the same, with more of a clamber than a jump. We sat there frazzling, sailing down the middle of the huge Mekong river. I feel great, like a real adventurer. This is some river. Pascal saw what may have been a dolphin jump too.
We pulled over to offload the bikes. We're still in Cambodia, so they weren't smuggled. Not so adventurous. After about 3 hours, we pulled over and clambered up a hill to the Cambodian customs. Pascal had overstayed his visa by 3 days. He thought it was $5 a day and it was, but only for day 1, then it went up each day. $30 he paid and was not impressed. He is on a tight budget as he is away for 2 or 3 years. He camps out when possible, avoiding the minefields. He is headed north through Vietnam for Mongolia. Another place I"ll have to add to my list. We clambered back down to the boat, moved along a short way and off to Vietnamese customs. This time taking our luggage with us and there are no handrails and no planks, just steep riverbank. Mark, one of the American lads took my small bag and a small Vietnamese bloke and even smaller lass kept grabbing me as I shinned, wiggled and heaved my way up the bank. With great success I might add. Mark gave me a big cheer as I reached the top. He has a flat spot on his head, a big flat spot. He had cancer and had a brain operation. Every time the piece of skull was put back, it became infected, so they left it off in the finish. He is the most boisterous on the boat by far.
We went through Vietnamese customs, including our bags being scanned, then off to another restaurant just long enough for everyone to have some food, while our passports are being processed. These people arent daft either.
AND I'm in Vietnam. YYYYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHH
The young lass who helped drag me up the bank, gave me 2000 Dong, 6p, to get me through customs, as I only had $20 bills, which caused some consternation. Well, it would if I could spell it. I couldn't work out how I could pay her back, but she introduced me to a money changer, a little lady with a big handbag and a calculator. The rate wasn't too bad and I only changed $20 to pay her back with interest, which made her a happy, smiling lass. She was lovely and bubbly, so deserved it.
Packs on and back down another dodgy slope. It's a good job I've got this stick. THis boat is a bit posher. It has an afterdeck where some of us sat and waved and smiled, shouted hello and generally had good fun with the Vietnamese people along the way, old and young both. We have turned off the Mekong now and are headed up a narrow tributary. 2 Cambodians told me as soon as the border is crossed how green the land becomes and they are right. There are water pumps every few hundred metres and sluices on the Mekong side. Vietnam is just more organised and it shows, so they can have at least 2 rice crops a year. There are boat and boat loads of rice along the way. It is piled all over the place, along the banks and in rice mills. We chugged down a small river with stilt houses on one side and a road and sluices on the other. THe Mekong must be over there somewhere. THe stilthouses don't look as neat as in Cambodia, but the people are just as smiley, wave and say hello just as much. The life here seems same, same, but different. It certainly feels like I am in a new country and my enthusiasm is revitalised. I had gotten into a bit of a rut in Cambodia. As time comes to leave a country, I tend to look ahead to the next one instead of enjoying where I am.
Back to Vietnam........There are plenty of water buffalo along the way and a lad riding one, high on the bank. The older people seem more likely to wave in Vietnam, in fact there are not many who don't. The countryside is loads better than the cities. I would bet a pound to a penny Saigon is not as good as here. The boat ride has been brilliant. Mark had the kids in the water and on the banks, jumping like nutters, he has great energy. We travelled down a few rivers and they seemed to get wider until we were back out a big bugger and at Chau Doc. It is a different leg of the Mekong, but still impressive.
My initial impression of Vietnam???? I LOVE IT. I think it is part of my nature to like things initially and see what happens after that.
There are steps up to street level here, but I didn't have to worry. The Hulk drives a cyclo in Chau Doc and he grabbed my rucksack off the boat and threw it into his cyclo (bicycle taxi) and we were off to a hotel of my choice, Vinh Phuoc. Bad choice, but the staff are smashing. I have no window, but they say I can swap rooms tomorrow.
I had a much needed shower and hit the streets of Chau Doc. I got cyclo harrassed until he received my "I don't like you" vibe. I wandered along and spotted a restaurant with a vacant table outside. It wasn't hard to spot. The towns electricity is off until 22:00, so only those buildings with generators are lit up. The cyclos congregated outside with me, but I had a bit of crack with these lads. 2 of them have Giant bikes attached to their cyclos. Very nice. One of them was a nutter and kept shooting off. I think he was chasing the ladies. An old fellow came and sat with me, he is only a half a shilling at the most. He took my LP and started reading it, only scanning the lines with his fingers in the wrong direction. The owner tried to shoo him along, but he stayed and is harmless. He got a free tea for his persistence. He also enjoyed sneaking a drink of my beer when the owner wasnt looking. She caught him once and he acted all innocent like he'd picked up the wrong glass by mistake. He is a good old stick. The cyclos were giving him some stick, which only made me like him more. I think he was trying to wangle some of my fish in sauce, very nice it is too, but he couldn't wangle it. He left after a while, so I finished what he had left of my beer and went back to the hotel for another there. I had a good chat with one of the lads there before hitting the sack, well and truely knackered.

An even lazier Phnom Phen day.

2008-05-03T02:05:00.001-07:00

21/4 - Victor came around at breakfast. I think he is just a little strange and he probably thinks the same about me.
I took a moto to the Post Office and posted some cards I've been carrying for weeks and some photo CDs, not to mention some very extravagent presents for the grandkids and a hammock. The lasses at the PO pack it for you too, a real bonus.
I took a stroll to Wat Prohm, but didn't go up the hill. I didn't need to, I had more of a laugh with some kids trying to sell me watches, shades and a dodgy looking flick knife. A mute lass joined us too, she took no nonsense from the others. I almost managed to sell my shades to them and my LP, as this is my last day in Cambodia.
I headed for the town centre, or so I thought. I was headed the wrong way, so gave up, took a moto back and phoned the kids. Paige sounded on good form. I hit the bar then for a lassi and went for a kip in the bar hammock, but it was in the sun, so too hot. A beer was the default getout, then a bit of packing. I just dossed for the rest of the day and worked out Victor stays in the guesthouse on the cheap and is harmless. Also the tall lady in the lake from yesterday was knealt in a boat, but I couldn't see the boat because of the vegetation. I'm still not sure about the toilet flushing.
Oh, my visa turned up.

A lazy Phnom Phen day

2008-05-03T02:03:00.000-07:00

20/4 - Up for breakfast over the lake, which is part refuse dump, but only a small part, it is a lovely setting. The lake is about 75% covered with some vegetable and can't be very deep either, or the woman I saw in the middle is very tall. It is surrounded by houses on stilts and guesthouses. There is a nice cool breeze blowing in fromit, so I can't be arsed to move into town, but I will. I kept hearing rushing water whilst I was sat there and couldn't figure it out, but I think it may be the toilets flushing into the lake. I'll check it out. Before I could move myself, I was joined by a very strange Chinaman, Vincent. Talking to him was like reading our Mick's blog. I think he had a ganja hangover. He eventually drifted off, so I went to get my golden locks trimmed, but I think there may be a Khmer plan to have me grow my curls, as the lady told me the shears are broken. They forgot to tell the lady down the street though, so I am a slaphead again.
I had a wander around the back streets here. It didn't seem big enough to have so many. I was going to head off to the Khmer Rouge Killing field, but I have seen one and that is enough killing for me, although I have been offered trips to the firing range, where you can fire AK 47's and rocket launchers for a modest, huge, fee. I thought these firing ranges are illegal, but they are advertised in the Guest house, mind you that doesn't mean they are legal. I've also been offered about 2 stone of weed in the last 12 hours. I got asked if I had any to sell the last time I went to Glastonbury. I must look like a real dopehead.
I jumped on a moto for Central Market and got accosted by a little lady within 10 metres of getting off. She was selling hammocks. I must confess, I was more tempted than I have been with the weed so far, especially when the price went from $6 to $2. Guess what??? I bought one on the way out.WHY??? I'm buggered if I know. I was offered buggering too by a very sick moto driver who blocked my path, it is the first time I have come close to losing my cool. What is it about the big cities that attracts the sickoes???? No!!!!, it isn't me.
Central Market is very impressive. It reminds me of Grand Central Station, New York. I think it is the clock tower in the centre of all the stalls. There is a lot of designer stuff on sale, nudge nudge, wink wink.... Lots of jewellry, that is weighed before being bartered for. There is a lot of nice jade stuff in here, well, it's green, I wouldn't know the difference. This is the first time I've thought I should break the no buying rule, but don't worry, I didn't, apart from the hammock. Women buy jewellry and blokes buy hammocks. We've got it right.
It made me smile to myself as I left the market, buying the hammock. I'm easily amused. Outside the building there are lots of stalls selling fruit, plants, bric-a-brac and tourist tempting stuff, like hammocks.
I was led to believe Phnom Phen is a pain of a city, but I like the place. Perhaps it isn't in full swing after New Year, or I've become immune to the motos, tuk tuks, sex, drugs and rock and roll offers, plus it is cooler today with some cloud cover, not such a hot house.
I wandered on and sat a bit and sat a bit and wandered on. I have been out of e-range lately, so did a bit of catch up. The AC in there was a bit heavy, I was frozen when I emerged. The Sunday rush hour was starting to start and stop and start and stop, so I jumped on a moto and headed back to see the sunset over the lake. He was a crazy moto man, but fun. We stayed on the road most of the way, just using the pavements to jump queues at the lights. The pedestrians seem oblivious to us. I think the driver believed he was the biggest vehicle on the road, he definitely thought he had the right of way at all the turnings and we made it back, so he must have been right.
I got my coffee and packet of biscuits and sat by the lake. Victor,from this morning turned up. He is a strange man. He asked me again if I am a Christian and asked if I used drugs. I think he is a Chinese suicide bomber. He doesn't seem to be playing with a full deck, that is for sure. I am off to watch the football in a different bar. If Victor follows, he is just a hit man after Mackems, if this place explodes in my absence, I was right first time.
Another game Sunderland didn't deserve to lose, but I may be biased. An Irish lad joined me to watch the match. I thought he was bound to be a Sunderland fan. He is a bloody Mag and he left happy.
Another beer for me and bed, if the place is still standing.

Off to Phnom Phen to sort my Vietnam visa.

2008-05-03T02:02:00.000-07:00

19/4 - Off to Phnom Phen to sort out my Vietnamese visa, well, nearly off. The bus was due at 7.30, came at 8.45 and went straight passed the guest house. Chanta, the cook, had taken the communal moto to the market, so I couldn't be nipped into town to catch the bus up. The bus ticket man, when phoned, said I was booked on the afternoon bus, which I think is Cambodian for Whoops. I played a bit of pool, read a bit and did a bit of typing, a relaxed morning and then the bus came and stopped and only an hour late.
The bus did the services stop at Angh Tusawn village, no baked spiders here. The kids selling the goods are always a good laugh, they have a great sense of humour and laugh at owt. You can't help but like them.
I got to Phnom Phen too late to sort out a visa today. I got hijacked by a tuk-tuk driver, who tried to take me to a hotel of his choice and also to a visa shop that was still open. The visa was only $40, 10 over the odds. We eventually got off to Boeng Kak lake, my choice, but it was easier said than done to find a hotel, this place is all knooks and crannies, but the touts always find you. I ended up in a room at Adam's place, not the one I wanted, but I couldn't find that one. The tuk tuk man said it was closed, but I found it a couple of days on. It may sound strange, but the room I have at Adam's, I would expect more for $5 a night. It is good enough though and the bar and restaurant area has a telly with the football on. Sunderland v Newcastle tomorrow.
This lake area is heaving with backpackers. Most of the guesthouses sort out visas and boat tickets, as does this one, so that'll save me some leg work. I had a couple of beers, some grub and watched a couple of games. I got chatting to an Irish lad, who absolutely hates Cambodia and the people. He got triple scammed at Poipet, a border crossing from Thailand and he just wants to leave after 3 days. A taxi driver and his mates did him twice and then a policeman. Poipet is notorious for gangsters and a place to avoid. The lad, Andy, is the 3rd person to tell me horror stories about Poipet. It is definitely a gangster town and needs a Cambodian Elliot Ness. He cheered up a bit later after a few beers and he was befriended by 2 bonny lasses. It would be a shame if he left with his current opinion, because this is a smashing country with great people.

Update or not????

2008-05-02T22:18:00.000-07:00

Hello People, this just to let you all know I am still alive. The internet access is not as good as I expected in Vietnam and more scarce too. I have tried to access your comments and cannot. I have been visiting some more smaller villages and towns too, which means access is not available so readily. I am currently on a smashing island, Phu Quoc, in Vietnam, which is gearing up for the tourist trade, so there is access, but again I cannot access comments. I hope this gets posted.
I am about 2 or more weeks behind with the blog, but if I skipped those 2 weeks I would only fall behind again and I want this as a record for me, as well as War and Peace for you, so I will catch up if possible. If they have internet in the nick, I'll catch up when the bobbies catch up with me, otherwise hang in there.
Summary......
I am alive and bloody well, getting brown legs and arms, having a ball, in no rush to stop, but going at a slower pace nowadays, through choice.
Stay well people and thanks for all the comments. I will catch up with them when possible.
Cheers,
Gil.

Last lazy Kep day.

2008-04-26T00:26:00.000-07:00

18/4 - I didn't get my backside out of bed early enough to go to Rabbit island, so bummed a lift of Marcel to his place nearer town and went in for a coffee and carrot cake. He runs it with his Cambodian wife. It's a funny place, untidy and he doesn't push it, but the carrot cake is nice. He has been here 7 years, so something is going right. I took a stroll passed the food stalls to the seafront and walked along the prom wall, daring myself to fall in. The nearest I got was a plodge for a while, then a kip on the wall after a read.
The New Year festivities are dying down, but families are still arriving, usually on 3 or 4 motorbikes. Some plonk themselves on the wall and break out the food and beer. It is nowhere as busy as the last 3 days and some of the stall holders are swinging in their hammocks passing the time of day. THey know how to relax. The main beach area is still fairly busy. Being in a seaside resort, I thought I should try some of the fresh prawns, so I did, with a beer and very nice too. The prawns are easier work than the crab.
I am down to my last $15 and there is no bank or ATM here, so I had a sit on the prom wall, it's free and passed some time. A moto turned up eventually, so I headed back to pack, but ended up in the hammock reading and watching the evening draw in. It turned out not to be a good idea, as it was dark when I decided to pack and the electricity failed. I packed by torchlight. Then had tea by candlelight at the bar and a natter by moonlight. It wasn't that bad after all. There was only me at the bar and the lads wanted to go to the pagoda for some final celebrations, so I went back to the hammock, but the electricity came back on, so they had to stay. Not for long though.

Another boring day at the office.

2008-04-26T00:12:00.000-07:00

17/4 - Up early, but to no avail. Both bikes I tried had punctures, so I gave up and sat doing some typing on Stefaan's laptop listening to the music in the bar. No internet here, but I can cut and paste it later. It is too hot to do much else, but I felt a bit lazy after I was rocking in the hammock a while, so I headed off to the crab market on foot. I thought I was never going to get there. It didn't seem this far yesterday on the bike. Eventually it turned up and I went into the first restaurant that looked out over the sea. Vietnam is visible from here, Pho Quoc island, perhaps I will make it there one day. This is a great spot to sit. I ordered a beer and expected a can, but got a big bottle of Angkor beer and as a storm looks to be moving in, I may as well stay for some food. A couple of Brit lads recommended the peppered crab, so peppered crab it is. The storm never materialised, there was even a smashing sunset for about 10 minutes. Time to head back, so I asked the waiter where I could get a moto to take me back. He walked off and came back on his moto, jack of all trades and a few riels for his pocket, good man.
I got chatting to an Aussie couple back at the bar. They have both quit their jobs and are off travelling for as long as it takes and when they get back they are changing jobs. 20 years as a plumber and an account is enough for them. I have met a good few people who have quit work and set off travelling. This couple were a bit older than the average, good luck to them. Laos has been their favourite place so far. I don' t think I can fit it in this trip, so better head back this way soon, before it is spoiled.

Another town, another bike.

2008-04-25T23:50:00.000-07:00

16/4 - A nice cool night made a lovley change. After a bit of breakfast I borrowed a bike, which Stefaan and Kong give free, along with the filtered water and pool table. I went down to the beach area. The beaches aren't great, but they are popular. It's not surprising considering some of the places I've seen people bathing. I started to get a dab on, which is probably why a lady hairdresser refused to cut my hair. My shirt was dripping and even more so after some kids waterbombed me. It is New Year and I did encourage it.
It looks like there is an entrance fee to Kep for New Year. Some blokes are stopping vehicles and handing out tickets. Anything to squeeze a dollar out of the people. I was gagging now, so picked up a coke at a roadside stall and found an old table under a tree to perch on and cool off. A young lady came over to join me to smile and borrow my nail clippers, she saw me using. That is almost all we could manage due to my lack of Khmer. I do feel a bit inadequate with the language barrier. I have tried to pick up a few words, but forget them faster than I learn them. I wandered down to the shoreline and had a paddle. It is like a warm bath, so didn't go any deeper. I headed back, still getting some Hello's, but not so many. People are wrapped up in their own party excitement. They come in and on all sorts of vehicles. Wagons come along, presumably from villages and pull up under a shadey coconut tree. They all bale out with crates of beer, a huge cool box, meal tins and get on partying. The cool boxes are the replacement for fridges. Not many fridges are around, even in the towns. These big cool boxes sit outside lots of shops and are in houses. The ice man comes along each morning and sells off his huge blocks.
There's loads of fresh fish and squid being cooked by the roadside. I may try some, but I'm not really a squid kid. I found a cake place on the way back, so had some carrot cake and an iced coffee, it's too hot for hot drinks. After the sugar fix I went to find a secluded beach and did so. The sandy area was about 3ft x 3ft, but did for a sit and laze. The water was too shallow to go for a swim. I would have had to rent a moto to get out far enough to swim. It clouded over anyway, looking like a storm was brewing, so I am off for something brewed, either a tea or a beer.
It was a beer!! setting me up for another lazy night at the bar. A cointreau replaced last nights sambucca, then I went to lie in the hammock and check out the stars, but it was too cloudy and a full moon, so no chance, but I enjoyed dossing in the hammock having a read. I had to get out before I nodded off and end up there for the night. I probably would have been eaten alive by something or other.

Off to Kep, the next stop.

2008-04-25T23:39:00.000-07:00

15/4 - Got the tuk tuk to the bus station at 6.45 and on one of the main streets there was a bunch of young 'uns still celebrating yet another New Year night. They were out of their heads and covered in talc. One of the New Year practices is to throw talc and water at each other.
The trip to Kep was uneventful, we rolled in at a decent time. Kep is very busy, being a seaside town, it is buzzing with locals celebrating New Year. I headed for the Botanica guesthouse with and American on a tuk tuk. It is owned by a Belgian lad and his Cambodian wife. I bumped into him on the Pursat to Phnom Phen bus. They only have one room, so we tossed for it and I won. It is obvious why it is called Botanica, the garden is bursting with greenery. The bungalow is neat and tidy for $7 and I have a hammock on the patio, so after a butty and banana shake I crashed in it. I have decided to make Kep a lazy stay. I have been hopping around a bit of late, so after the hammock I just went to the bar and it was beer, beer, food, coffee, offer of a joint, sambuca, read and bed. A French/Cambodian couple offered me a joint, they told me it is $1 per gram and if you think that is cheap it was once $1 per Kg for the unprocessed plant on the local markets. Apparently it is used in Khmer soup, so I know what is for lunch tomorrow.

The sad part of Phnom Phen.

2008-04-25T23:17:00.000-07:00

14/4 - Thought I'd see a few sights today starting with the Khmer Rouge torture prison, S21, Tuol Sleng, which was formerly a school. This was not a place to be when Pol Pot was in power, not even as a guard a lot of the time. Now it is a very quiet place. The surroundings don't encourage speech, more tears. People who were brought here didn't leave alive. 7 people were found alive and the guards even killed 14 of the last 21 as they Vietnamese were taking over Phnom Phen. The regime was so paranoid, a lot of the guards ended up as prisoners and so victims. Even people high up in the regime came under suspicion, some ending up here and so murdered. Every victim was photographed on entry and so were some of the attrocities. Children were brought here and mothers with babies and none left alive, or only as far as the killing field outside of Phnom Phen. Everyone should visit here, but you don't leave with a bounce in your step. This place put a very solemn stamp on the day. It is not an outstanding place to look at, just a small school down a back street. The only thing that sets it apart is the tin and barbwire fence around it. I was glad I went to see the place and glad to leave.

I wandered around the streets a bit, looking for somewhere to eat, but that was easier said than done. Eventually I came across a place that said "Snacks", so that was spot on. I went in and it was a full blown, buzzing Chinese restaurant, but I stayed to show off my chopstick skills. I had sweet and sour pork and seafood soup. I am not a big sweet and sour fan, but the food in here was nearly as good as Kheang's.
I was going to head to the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, but it is too damn hot, so I had a kip and when I woke it was too late to go, so I headed to the promenade again, for some so-so food and wine. It is still fairly quiet here, only a few people after money, but I bet it is a different story after New Year. I went and sat on the prom wall for a bit of people watching and a friendly family came and sat next to me, so I had a bit of fun with the kids, before heading off for another glass of wine. I never made the wine, I spotted a coffee shop, so had some smashing coffee, just like in the Netherlands and a cake, just like everywhere I've been on this trip.
I headed for home and the same moto driver spotted me, but he offered no ganja or sex tonight.
I stepped off at the guesthouse and put my leg on the exhaust. Plonker!! That will ruin the tan. I don't really have one, only below the knees and elbows.

Srei Siam to Phnom Phen, village to capital.

2008-04-25T06:21:00.000-07:00

23/4 - today is the first official day of Khmer New Year and I woke to the buzz on the main road around 5.00. I think people are excited. Don was up early chopping down some banana stalks for sale at the market. They were chuffed with the price they fetched. Everything goes up in price at New Year. THe bus ticket went up 67% and they don't come down in a hurry either. I was packed and had breakfast early, so sat around a while. Kheang's cousin came in from next door to chop up the banana leaves from the tree Don felled this morning. THey only bear one lot of fruit, so they are chopped down and a new tree grows from the roots. The leaves are used for parcelling food and string, the trunk is used for cattle fodder, also next door for Kheang's uncle, so the whole tree gets used. Kheang's cousin is about 12 and was one of the kids at the lesson the other day, so I went over to chat while she cut up the banana leaves. Ra and Na werer there too. Ra is always off gathering mangoes or kapok or anything he can find. Kheang got a phone call to say the bus is leaving the previous stop. She doesn't answer it, they have a code. We wandered up to the main road and she flagged it down. Don had gone for a bath, so we never got to say goodbye. I doubt we'd ever be bossom buddies. Kheang is a smashing lady and I would like to come back here when the Mekong has risen, she tells me it is a different country then. You never know, I may be back, but now I am off to Phnom Phen. The city is said to be quiet during New Year as most people go home to their villages and family, so it will suit me. The bus stopped at some services near a village knicknamed Spiderville as a local delicacy is baked tarantula and there they are big black baked spiders. A bunch of what looked like 18 - 30 club young 'uns got on the bus in Kompong Cham and some of the lads are queued up waiting for their spider. They got stuck into them and the locusts. You don't get these delicacies at Newport Pagnall services. I never even considered trying any.
Into Phnom Phen and the tuk tuk drivers aren't too much hassle, so I got to the hotel easy, if overcharged, it is New Year. The hotel is good, even though I'm on the 5th floor. It is early afternoon, so I went for a wander in the peace and quiet, comparatively anyway, I still got plenty of moto offers. A lot of places are closed until the 17th, the Royal Palace was open, but I got there too late, so I wandered passed a nearby Wat, which is where the parties are supposed to be held, but nothing has kicked off yet. Phnom Phen is a typical big city, plenty to see. I wandered through a park with food stalls sprinkled around, passed the Houses of Corruption, Government HQ. I walked along the front of the Royal Palace and there is a big green here with mats spread out along the paths and on some of the grass. There are loads of food stalls who own the mats. This place is buzzing. It is just next to the Prom along Tonel Sap lake, so I strolled and sat and strolled and .... you get the picture. The city people are not as smiley as those outside of cities, just like back home. I settled in a bar for some Khmer food and a beer. The food is not a patch on Kheangs. Then I bartered for a moto back to the guesthouse, 40p and got offered sex and marajuana on the way back, but they weren't included in the price, so I declined. Up the apples and pears and off to kip.

Homestay day 2.

2008-04-24T01:43:00.000-07:00

12/3 - up early, but not as early as Kheang, who is up fed and off to the market to sell some of their produce. It is a frugal existence for them, buy and sell as needed. The market is only on for a few hours in the morning and starts about 5.30. Kheang gets back from the market and sets to making me some breakfast, omlette, bread, a bit of fruit and Khmer sweets, which are great. She is dealing with the kids too. She tires me out just watching her. Don has an easier life, he looks after the garden and manual matters around the house. He does well for his age. I forgot to mention that Kheang teaches English to some of the local kids. She had a lesson yesterday, so I went up to sit in when the kids arrived and ended up getting completely involved. It was good fun, but I don't think I am the best example of English. We had a laugh and Kheang seemed pleased.
Back to today. Kheang has arranged for a small tractor and trailer to take her, the kids and me into the countryside. Kheang brought a kids stool for me to sit on, but I would have been flat on my backside before 50yds, so put myself on my backside at the start. It was not a smooth ride. We made it to our destination with Kheang commentating along the way. We stopped at the edge of a paddy field ready for harvesting. It is the first one I've seen at this stage. We strolled along the side of a cucumber field and Kheang shouted as we went, so we ended up at a 3 sided thatched palm shelter where there was a couple and their son sat. The lad is here because it is Khmer New Year tomorrow, so he has some time off school. The couple stay here for 6 months, from when the Mekong recedes from their cucumber field until it comes back again, which should be soon, around the end of May. In the shack/shelter there's a bamboo bed and the ubiquitous hammock. Cooking is done on a wood fire. The husband goes catching fish in a nearby pond off a river. They have a couple of motorbike batteries for lighting and their son-in-law, today, or any family member, replenishes the batteries and also brings food for them. They don't even take New Years day off, as the cucumber wholesaler comes to collect the cucumbers the following day, so they have to be picked. They also have paddy and cashew fields nearby that they farm. I asked if they go back to the village for odd days, but they don't want to. THey are happy here, living out in the country and the quiet. They are a smashing couple and seem really content. Kheang was discussing market prices with them. The price of fuel has doubled very quickly, the world rice price has shot up, but the farmers are being paid less for their produce. The corruption in this country is insane and the rich seem to want to grind the poor into their fields. The average Cambodian seems to be very resilient, but they are getting a real bum deal. I think the village environment stops life being worse. The villagers sell and buy locally and help each other whenever possible. Kheang said the prices are the same for the produce on the market, nobody tries to undercut another person.
Nearby, there is a dam that was built by the local children when the Khmer Rouge were in power. The kids were between 5 and 10 years old, Kheang being one of them. The dam was just dirt piled high, so is now just back to the land level around it. We were going to go over for a look and a ride on a fishermans boat, but the husband of the couple told us there is nobody there because of Khmer New Year, so we gave it a miss and wandered back to the tractor.
Kheang and Don are having trouble with rats killing their chickens. The farmers use a car battery and wire to kill the rats eating the rice in the paddy fields, so Kheang thought, but the couple showed us there is a device in between that steps up the voltage to 240 AC. DOn was going to do the same, but this may cause a rethink with the kids and dog around.
Yesterday, Kheang showed me how a bamboo shaft is setup so the sugar palms can be climbed and the sugar sap collected. Today we stopped on the way back to see how it is made into palm sugar. I got a taste and it was like fudge, very nice. The lady wanted me to take a great lump, but I restrained myself. The kids got stuck in though. It would be great to talk Khmer, so I could talk to the locals, but I have enough trouble with English, so I suppose I am being a bit ambitious. We headed back with the kids licking their lips, they had had about 3 cucumbers each at the field too.
Kheang made some dinner and afterwards was telling me what it was like to be 5 and under Khmer Rouge (KR) rule. She was moved out of the village to work in the fields and on the dam. Any minor misdemeanours were punished and food was scarce. There is a killing field near the village and the clothes from victims were piled up nearby. Some of the kids went to try and steal some of the clothes, so they had another set. Kheang got caught. The soldier put her in a wooden box. She paniced after a few minutes and kicked the lid off, luckily enough there was nobody around, so she legged it. I don't think the KR were organised enough for the soldier to have told anyone else. The kids rarely got to see their parents and they got minimal rations. Eating food whilst harvesting was a big NO NO, but Kheang had a couple of stories of how they tried to get around it. Not always successfully, but sometimes. The KR promised a great life and delivered misery, yet there are ex-KR people in the government and one from the torture camp S21. The war criminals are not being tried either, for some strange reason. Money would be my first guess in this country. Many KR are rumoured to have escaped as refugees to other countries, very reminiscent of the Nazis.
It was good to sit and talk to Kheang, she is a smashing lass. She is off again now, running around, but me being an old knacker went for 40 winks. When I woke, I saw Kheang disappearing with the kids on the moto and Don was nowhere to be seen, so I wandered into the village. I stopped for a coke and a sit in the shade. A lad who lived at the stall, came over for a chat. He is home from Phnom Phen for New Year. He works in a mobile repair place. Half of the shops in the towns and villages are mobile shops, so he will be busy. Someone came over while we sat for him to change the settings on their mobile. He can't afford a room in Phnom Phen, so stay with some monks at a Pagoda. He gets free board and food, only the electric and water have to be paid for. Kheang spotted me at the stall and came over to say hello. Ra wanted to walk back with me, but Kheang is a typical protective Mam, so wouldn't let him. I wandered back after a good chat. I was going to get my hair cut, but the barber was busy as I passed, in both directions, so I bought some water melons instead, an obvious replacement for a haircut. I had a real good laugh with the ladies on the stall, even though the only Khmer I know is thank you and some numbers. They thought I was trying to barter. We did some laughing. I saw Don on the moto as I went back, he almost ignored me and when I got back, he almost had a go at me for going into the village alone. It is a long story why, but not being phsycic, I didn't know I should not have. I think he overplayed it a bit too. He is starting to get on my pip a bit. He picks on Kheang constantly. I think she could do without it. I chilled for the rest of the evening until Kheang served up another great meal, fish Amok. This lady can cook. I should have gone in to watch her cook, but didn't like to intrude. With hindsight, I would not have been. In the evening, once it is dark, she works using a lamp on her head, she is good with it and just gets along with life. After the meal Don started giving her grief. The lady was knackered and didn't need it. I had a shower and did a quick exit to leave them to it. Not my place to get involved, but I was very tempted.

Living it up at a homestay.

2008-04-23T00:44:00.000-07:00

11/3 - I'm off to a homestay today, about 7Km from Kompong Cham. I don't know what to expect, but will soon find out. THe place belongs to an American bloke, Don and his Cambodian wife, Kheang. They have to kids a lad Ra, 5 and a lass Na aged 4. THe homestay is called Rana. I'm in a room on stilts, very nice too. The property has no electricity, but plenty of candles and torches. I arrived by tuk tuk and had glass of Vietnamese tea while sitting under the thatched awning. Kheang cooked eggplant with herbs spices and veg for lunch. It was delicioius, possibly the tastiest meal I've had in Cambodia. Kheang told me it is said to be a peasants meal. Well I guess I am a peasant, because it was delicious. After dinner we went for a late afternoon stroll in the countryside. Kheang explained the farming as we went along. Everything is done manually. We met a friend of hers, Pi. She lives in the same village, Srei Siam. She works the fields everyday and very hard, Kheang told me, but again we were greeted by a big smile. The kids came along and ate something from every bush or tree that it was possible to. After a break with Pi and the kids having fun in a straw pile we went on and found Kheang's Mam's bike lying at the edge of the field. It had a basket with cashews in. Some still had the fruit attached, but not for long once the kids saw. These 2 could survive in the countryside if they got lost. Mind you, Na would have some bumps and scrapes. She must have skin like leather. She went over at least half a dozen times and bounced back up laughing. They found a palm leaf that had fallen and had good fun dragging each other along on it like a sledge. We could do with the Western kids being sent out here for a few weeks to see how to have fun outdoors said the grumpy, old man.
Kheang was almost sweeping the track for me as we went along. She is a very considerate lady and like perpetual motion, as soon as we got back, she was in the kitchen preparing tea.
Kheangs Mam came along for a chat. I was supposed to ask her questions, but had no idea what to ask, but the conversation went along OK after a while with Kheang translating. Her Mam is 62 and still works hard in the field most days. She heard Kheang shouting her this afternoon, but had to get on with her work, as there was nobody at home to cook the tea, so she had to get finished in the fields and get home to cook tea, so couldn't stop. She must be a hard lady to have lived through Cambodia's recent history. She had to be up early in the morning to get to the market and then back to the fields, so she left about 20:00 on her push bike.
We then had a smashing tea of curry and then a chat. With hindsight I should have gone to bed earlier, as Kheang also has to be up early to go to the market, 5.30. She is a lovely lady. I showered by candlelight and retired under the mozzy net for a read.

Another day, another temple.

2008-04-20T01:45:00.000-07:00

10/3 - Off on a moto up a hill to some temples, Wat Hanchey, about 20 Km away. We'd gone about 2 Km when there was a hint the price was too cheap, so we split the difference. We'd gone about 19Km and there were some old fellows by the roadside with silver pots. T, the driver, pulled over and one of the old blokes said some incantation over us, we threw some money in and we were off. "What was that all about Grandad?" Beats me !!
T said he would go slow and he did, until we hit the dirt track up the hill, then it was like a moto-X race. I knew he was getting bored on the way here when he was driving with his feet up on the front post. It was a good journey though, along the banks of the Mekong, through lots of small villages, although there weren't so many Hello's today, mind you people were going about their daily routines, mostly farming and some fishing. The countryside isn't dissimilar to the UK, only with different crops and different trees making up the woods and banana and mango trees scattered among the houses. OK, it's nothing like the UK. It is away from the houses in the countryside, which is very arid around here at the moment. I'd like to come back in the wet season to see the difference.
There are the usual women driving motos with baseball caps and pyjamas on carrying their shopping. I am getting used to it now and have a theory. They are the equivalent to the shellsuits the Scallies wear, I've hardly seen any tracksuits out here.
Back to the moto. After we battered up the hill, T had a flat front tyre. We had a look around the new temple being built. In here 4 lads had set up some wires, ropes, pullies and chains and were dragging a big Buddha into place, inch by inch. No cranes or forklifts out here mate!!
T had this thing in his head about showing me the cashew orchard, so he ushered me over to the orchard. The trees looked mostly bare, but he wasn't giving up. He spotted some at the top of one of the trees, off went the flip flops and up he went. I'm glad he didn't give up. He threw a couple down. They look like yellow peppers. "They aren't cashews." said clever clogs. "Yes they are, " he told me. He split one open, still not cashew nut, but they tasted lovely and sweet and juicy. T told me they are good for power, so I scoffed mine, then I spotted the cashew nut. It is like the stalk of the pepper, on the outside. I live and learn and was chuffed that T insisted I see them.
T went off down the hill now to get his flat fixed. He shouted back at me to sit in the shade. I wasn't awe inspired by the temples and the LP had promised great views of the Mekong, but I never saw them, so decided to wander down the hill to see if they were there and save T coming back up the hill. I got a good dab on, so kept stopping in the shade. The views still weren't great. 3 kids stood in their door frame and shouted to me, the usual Hello. Their Mam appeared, but the kids were too shy to come out to see the Barang (foreigner/Frenchman from old times). I had my binoculars in my hand, so enticed them over, with a push from Mam. One of their mates showed up and they shared the binoculars around. It is good to see how they do that.
I carried on to the base of the hill and sat in the shade to wait for T, whilst trying to have a conversation with a bloke and his daughter. T surprised me by coming down the hill. How was I to know there is another way up? He surprised me again by setting back off up the hill once I got onboard. How was I to know there were more temples up the hill and the good views I was expecting?? These were more like it. There were plenty of statues that seem to depict a story, so I asked T what one was. He didn't know, so asked the local magic man and passed it on to me. He tried to get me to go in and see the magic man to see if he could fix my legs and tie a bangle around my wrist, but I declined, ever the cynical, grumpy, old, non-believer. To be honest I'd wish I'd gone in for the experience, but I am a bit shy. REALLY. I never know how much to give people either. I later learned that the magic man is quite famous and lots of locals go to him for treatment. His specialty is mental health, so perhaps it wasn't my legs T was trying to fix.
The views of the Mekong from here are great. T was trying to hustle me around the temples at break neck speed, then he realised I only have one speed, so we sat on a wall to look out over the Mekong. He is really curious about my muscular dystrophy and was examining my legs and stomach. I was sat in the shade the other day and a bloke came over. He had watched me walk down the street. He pulled up my jeans leg and checked out my ankle, then was feeling my knee. This bloke had been discussing me with his mates, fellow moto drivers, before he gave me the once over. Anyway, back to T. He is also curious about how things work in the West and is full of questions. I have told a few Cambodians that the money removes the smiles from peoples faces. I love the way most of them beam with smiles and wish it happened more back home. The Cambodians see us here with the dollars thousands of miles from our homes and envy us. Which is the best?? Beats me. A mixture of both I guess. We'll all probably end up in a great big melting pot. There's a song in there for us oldies. He wanted me to tell him where Buddha had come from. I know where a few buggers have come from but Buddha?? My sisters and Thomo will find this hard to believe, but I did have an opinion where Buddha comes from. It's a good job T's not into football and politics, we could have been there for days.
We headed back to the moto, parked in a food stall out of the shade, for a boiled egg, mango and coke. Something to slush around on the way back, when T turned into the Devil on a moto. I never saw a great deal on the way back. I was too scared to take my eyes off the road. He thought speed bumps had to be taken at speed, but we made it back.
Yesterday, I emailed a couple about a homestay (Rana homestay, google it). They introduce people to the locals and rural life, so I checked my emails, phoned as requested and I'm in. I may not be able to get a room on stilts, but never mind. Now it is back for a kip. Khmer New Year is supposed to start at the weekend, but I was told the calendar does not get adhered to and there was a street party last night, so I'm knackered, from not sleeping for the noise, not through attending. I think tonights party could be washed out. I was woken by a monster storm. The road is flooded. The storm was good to watch, once I dragged myself out of my pit. The kids were running around in it and playing football, or water-football on the prom, just partying in the rain in general.
I nipped next door for some food and got invited to show off my prowess at pool. We lost the first game, but then my skill showed through as the luck increased and we won 2-1. I didnt push my luck and retired.

Kompong Cham by bike again.

2008-04-20T00:41:00.000-07:00

9 / 4 = Breakfast and back out on the bike. I headed for an out of town temple. I could have done with gears, it was getting hot, hot, hot, but I made it. This temple is a bit different, Wat Nokor. It is an old ruined temple that has a few new pagodas built around it and had itself incorporated into a new one. The old stuff is definitely better than the new stuff, a bit like us blokes. This is a smashing place to wander around, lots of nooks and crannies and shrines tucked away in hideaways. The workstaff were having a kip on the cold tiles of the temple, so I decided to join them for a read, it is a tadge warm. There is supposed to be a big reclining Buddha, but I couldn’t find it and couldn’t hear it snoring. I’ll do another lap on the bike to see if I can spot it. While I think on, I saw a first on the way here. A young lady driving a moto was breast-feeding her kid as she went along. That must complete the full set of moto sightings. I think the Dutch are clever with what they can carry and do on their bikes, but the Cambodians are magic on their motos. I got directed to the reclining Buddha by the Tourist policeman, after coughing up my 2 dollars. It was a bit of a disappointment, the old fellow asleep in front of it was more of a character. I don’t get this Buddhist style painting.

2 lads told me about some temples on a couple of hills about 6Km away that are worth a look, Phnom Pros and Phnom Srei, where legend has it the women had a race with the men to build a stuppa through the night (A place where ashes are laid to rest). The women outfoxed the blokes by starting a fire, the men saw that they were leading and thought the fire was the sunrise, so they stopped working. You have to watch these cunning ladies, especially when you are a stuppa bloke. Because the ladies won, they don't have to propose to the men anymore, as was the custom and they get another chance to rub the blokes noses in it by saying NO. Not that they would. Anyway, I set off for the hills, but my engine started to overheat, so I put my legs in reverse and headed back towards town. I went back in by a new route, as is my want, to see if I could get lost. I passed a signpost saying "Minefield cleared", but I didn't go in to check. This end of town has all the big old colonial buildings from the French days. There are some stilt houses mixed in with them and they are grand stilthouses too. A lot of the old government and military places are out here too, also very grand. Out of the area it is more rundown, any old colonial stuff around here is not maintained. This area is along the riverbank. A lot of poor places seem to border a river.

I had not been this far up the river, it is a huge river. Here it widens and splits creating what looks like an island. The name Mekong brings an image of greatness to my mind and now I've seen it, the image is cemented there.

I meandered back along the river for a coffee and cake, but they were out of cake, so a beer it was. Then I took the bike back, alas. The shop owner is a real happy lady. We communicated with sign language and a lot of laughs. I picked up a couple of cakes on the way back, but the walk has got me perspiring profusely, so it was iced coffee and cake.

A couple of South African lasses parked their bums next to me. There were no other outside seats overlooking the Mekong. They have put the idea of going to Laos into my head, but I will have to ponder it. I have already delayed my Sydney flight once. Also a mate in New Zealand has emailed me to see if I fancy the England v All Blacks game in Auckland, so I'll have to see if he gets a ticket, as that would rule out Laos. I'll see how crocked I am after this trip and perhaps plan a Laos trip later next year. You come away for 6 months thinking you have plenty of time to see what you want. NO WAY JOSE. The more you travel the more you realise there isn't enough time or money. If things carry on the way they are, I'll just make it back for Christmas.

I wanted to stay up and watch the Liverpool game last night, but I was too knackered and after another day on the bike it looks like the Man U game is out the window too, especially since I have booked a moto to take me out of town tomorrow, so it's snap and bed.

A couple of the Kompong Cham days.

2008-04-19T22:09:00.000-07:00

7 /. 4 = A late start through faffing about, but then I hired a bike, so was on my way for some breakfast, then to put my laundry in. Awe inspiring stuff. I pootled around town a bit, up and down alleys. It is flat around here, which is good, the gear on this bike is a tough one. I fancied cycling over the Mekong bridge, but it looks a bit heavy going, so I cycled to the bamboo bridge. Believe it or not, it is constructed out of bamboo. It looks a bit rickety, but cars are supposed to go across it. It is built every year and is only used during the dry season, ferries are used during the wet season. I stopped to take a few pictures, it looks pretty cool, the closer I get. It links an island, Koh Paen, to the southern side of the river. There was a bloke lounging on a cart when I stopped, so I asked to take his photo. When I went over to show him, I tripped and almost took a slide into the Mekong. It’s a good job it is dry season and the river is quite a way off, otherwise I would have been swimming in the Mekong, that would have been another tick on my list that wasn’t meant to be there. The bloke dragged me up the bank, it was dry, so I was only dusty, not up to the eyes in clarts.
I moved closer to the bridge to see if I could do a better job of falling in. The sun is dipping, but it is still red hot, so I stood under a tree and minutes later my next English lesson arrived. Ton Kim his name and this turned out to be one of the most interesting chats I’ve had in Cambodia. After the usual round of questions, Ton began to tell me about when he lived in the jungle. How the wild pigs had eaten all the rice crop the first year, so him and his Dad would sleep by the paddy field, until they finished the fence around it. Also how he heard a tiger turn up one night, checking out his 2 buffalo. He didn’t get up, but saw the paw prints in the morning. Him and his brother used to go out with catapults for birds and he used to trap wild hens. How the locals used to fish with poison, I think it may have been a drug to send the fish dizzy. He obviously missed the jungle, by the way he smiled as he spoke of the times and by the enthusiasm with which he spoke. He told of how the forest is being destroyed by inconsiderate rice farmers and how the local militia lend their weapons to the locals to hunt, so the animals are becoming more scarce. He had some good stories and planted a seed in my thoughts to live in the jungle. Will it grow?? Not quick enough for this trip. For the future?? Who knows what is to come??
I headed back to the stalls by the hotel, that sell the beer, but decided to wait for the sun to drop a bit more, so went passed and sat on the prom wall for a while. Low and behold my 2nd English lesson of the afternoon turned up. It is great when there is no money chasing involved. This lad worked in a nearby hotel and had a definite eye for the ladies. He told me, in the nicest possible way of course, that I could get a lady at his hotel. We had a laugh about it, but I settled for a beer.
I tried a Khmer establishment to eat tonight. A bit posher than most I have tried. There were more waitresses than customers and I’d put money on it they were taking the mickey out of me. One lass sat on the window ledge and watched me eat. Foreigner watching seems to be a Cambodian custom and who am I to complain about people watching. Like me they are just curious, or nosey and I am used to being stared at. The walk is getting definitely more funky. I could qualify for the Ministry of Funny Walks, no problem. The dickie search is another quaint custom. Now you are thinking. I may have told you about this already, but just in case. It is mostly lasses, they sit and search each others hair for unwanted stowaways. I still get the smile and the wave and then they just carry on. It seems to be a popular tea break custom.
Fed and watered, I went back to pack. I am moving from the hotel to a guesthouse tomorrow. I don’t like the room I’m in, it is miserable. Some buildings are demolished because they have sick building syndrome, well, this room has miserable room syndrome. I don’t like the poisoned dwarf on reception either. He even has an elevated chair to bring him up to normal height, behind the counter. He is like a dwarf baddy in a James Bond film.

8 / 1 = Moved from my miserable room to a dump. It’s not that bad. It is about half the size, but looks out over the Mekong and is a happy room. I struggled to find a bike today. Eventually a moto man said he would take me to one. It was so close, he could have pointed it out, but he earned his money helping me to get a bike that wasn’t about to fall apart. The shop we went to didn’t have a bike with gears, so she pointed us next door, very good of her. After trying to get about 6 bikes to function, I gave up. The lady had gone off, so I went back to here later and took one from her without gears. I headed for the bamboo bridge again. If yesterday, I almost fell in the Mekong, today I almost cycled into it. The dirt track to the start of the bridge is dusty, rutted and steep, so as I braked a skid developed and I was on a direct path to miss the bridge, but due to my expert cycling skill, also known as being bloody lucky, I rounded beautifully onto the bridge, on the wrong side of the road, but come on, I’m on the bridge. It’s about 8 feet wide and made of sliced, interwoven bamboo. It took me about 20 metres to realise, one wrong move and I’m in the Mekong, there are no side barriers and there are plenty opportunities to slip, especially when a moto is coming the other way carrying this years rice crop, but I avoided him and the edge of the bridge, or more likely he took pity on me and avoided me. It is easy to miss oncoming traffic, just close your eyes and hope. I got about halfway across and couldn’t believe it, BRIDGEWORKS. 4 lads were crouched sliding new slices of bamboo under the thicker slices of the central reservation, also known as the cyclists trip up. They didn’t move either, so I played it safe, so as not to knock one into the river and scooted through the gap. I made it to the other side and bloody hell, if it isn’t a toll bridge, 50 cents each way. I suppose it has to be paid for and the toll booth was a hammock and a hut, pretty cool. The bridge ends and a track come beach starts, so I am doing a bit of off road racing on a ladies shopping bike that is too small for me, no wonder I am knackered. My sweat is bringing the Mekong back to wet season levels. The road becomes shaded after a while and seems to run for miles. It must go straight down the middle of the island, as I didn’t see any water for ages. There are stilt houses on both sides of the road, some big ones too. It looks like the majority of places are farms. There are fruit trees everywhere mangos, jackfruit, bananas and some I don’t know. Lots of the farms have sweetcorn and tobacco out drying. There are lots of tall tobacco drying houses along the road too, with groups of people tying the leaves together to hang in the drying houses. A group of people are gathered around a machine that strips the corn from the cob and then minces the cobs to a meal. I guess it has all been done manually before, to this is a spectacle to be watched. Sesame is supposed to be grown on the island too, but I don’t see anything that may be sesame.
As usual, there are lots of “Hello” s as I cycle along and some kids run onto the track to slap my palms as I pass. This is a good fun and interesting ride. It is going on a bit without any sign of coming out of the houses and trees, then I heard a call to prayers. I know there is a Muslim village somewhere, so I kept going until I realised the call had gone from in front of me to behind me. I guess I missed that turning. At last I came out into the open to see fields and the river. There is also a pagoda temple off to the left, but I did an about turn and headed back and then I spotted the turn for the Muslim village. I thought there were only houses either side of the track, but they go back a few rows. I eventually gave up looking for the Muslim village when I entered a few farms thinking they were roads. I got back to the track and spotted a bench under a tree at the entrance to a tobacco farm. I asked a young lass, leaving on a bike, if I could sit there. “Yes”. I did then she reappeared. It seems to be a Cambodian habit that if they don’t understand you they say YES. The lass was beaten to me by about 6 kids of varying ages, followed by Mam. I sat for about 30 minutes, probably more, having fun. The Mam was a good laugh too and kept order when it got a bit raucous. Everyone was interested in the LP and there was a photo shoot, only the younger ones were interested in that. I handed out some fruit I had brought along. At first nobody would take it, then the scamp of the bunch took it and everyone dived in then. The kids were good making sure the titchy ones got their share too. I got the binoculars out. This caused a ruckus, but it was all good in the end, even Mam had a go. She had a bigger laugh when I showed them to look through the wrong end. This meeting has made my day, but it is time to move on. I stopped at the last cold drinks stall for a sugar fix before the sand and bridge and 2 kids gave me a Khmer lesson, mostly in counting, after they had asked my age.
Back to the bridge, where the bloke tried to collect my toll again. I was getting a bit cocky on the bridge until a bloke came along with someone on the back of his moto, carrying a mirror almost as wide as the bridge. I pulled over. I made it across, passed the ongoing bridgeworks and sat in the restaurant next to my new abode with a beer as the sun set.
That was a cracking day.

Off to Kompong Cham.

2008-04-19T22:08:00.000-07:00

6 / 4 = Yeat didn’t show to pick me up, so I walked to the bus stop. I doubt I had a seat anyway on the 8:30. It looks like Pursat is enroute to places and a seat is given if one is free when a bus arrives. The ticket stands wave the buses down as they approach. I have a book to read and know how to wait, so ………….. I got away at 9:30, not bad. This bus didn’t have plastic seats down the middle, but rice sacks. It amused the other passengers watching a gangle bloke walk over these rice sacks. It was a laugh. I got my book out to amuse myself. The lady next to me amused herself by picking dickies out of her sons hair and crushing them between her thumb nails. Everyone to their own. It is common practice out here.
From the bus Phnom Phen looks like a sprawling city, like many others outside of Cambodia. The other places I have seen in Cambodia, are nowhere like this place, just small towns. This is definitely a capitol city. Not huge, towering office blocks, but lots of areas commerce and housing mixed together. It has a definite city centre with wide roads, offices and modern shops and eateries. The place where the money is.
Just so you don’t forget this is S.E. Asia, loads of tuk tuk and moto drivers greet us at the bus station trying to influence the passengers to a hotel, or shuttle the locals to their destinations. There were only 4 westerners on the bus, but that didn’t dampen their enthusiasm. One of the other westerners is a Belgian lad I got chatting to at the services. He has a guesthouse in Kep. He is married to a Cambodian lass, so that may be a stop off at some point. He is a real easy going lad and still travels Cambodia when he can get time from the guesthouse. He has just been to see a circus in Battambong. It looks like I left too early.
The tuk tukers are enthusiastic, but not aggressive and directed me to the bus stop for Kompong Cham, my next stop. I have a good wait, so sat in the water sprayed seats and did some people watching.
Boarded the bus and was sat next to a very pretty Cambodian lady, or nearly. The seats in front of us had a young monk sat there and when the lady who had the next seat saw him “No way” was her reaction. I didn’t know why, but anyway, it was me and the monk. The bus lady told me to sit there and as she was dressed in black and red, I thought she may be Khmer Rouge, so did as I was told.
Approaching Kompong Cham a storm broke out, but luckily it had blown over by the time we got there. At Kompong Cham, I took a moto wearing both my bags. I am getting a bit cocky now. I’ll come cropper soon. By the time I got back out of the hotel Mekong, it was dark. It is opposite the Mekong river, which is still very impressive, even in the dark. Stall holders have setup along this part of the promenade too, so after a coconutty curry, I sat here with a beer for a super chill, the only thing missing was the stars.

A flying visit to Pursat

2008-04-19T22:06:00.000-07:00

4 /4 = Back to the bakery for some pastries and on a moto to the bus station. It is more organised than I expected. Some good characters get on to fill the bus too, so along the way, as more people are picked up, plastic chairs are put in the aisle to sit on. Now it is definitely full. “You wouldn’t get this back in the Nanny State.” Said the impressed grumpy old man. The journey is interesting, as I get to see more of Cambodia. We pulled over at some services, not quite like the British motorway services, in fact nothing like them at all. People pull out the sticky rice, smoked fish or whatever they have packed. I bought a mango, complete with packet of salt, sugar and chilli. It is growing on me. The driver peeps his horn and we all pile back on. The chairs are put back in the aisle and 2 minutes later we are in Pursat, my destination. The chairs are all moved again and an embarrassed Gil gets off. I got my bags off and a moto driver pulled up, but we couldn’t understand each other. I tried some other people, but no joy, so I pulled my bag into the shade and sat on it for a look around and a ponder. I was just about ready to checkout the Guesthouse over the road, when another moto pulled up and he knew the guesthouse I was looking for. He dropped me off and booked me for a trip to the floating village tomorrow. The hotel looks the part for 7 dollars. While I went to get the key a little Cambodian lady whisked my bag up to the 1st floor. The bag was as big as her.
After 40 winks, I went off to discover Pursat. I thought it was a 1 horse town, but wandering down the road proves me wrong. There’s a good market and plenty of shops, definitely not 1 horse. The locals don’t return my smile so readily, but I am the only westerner I have seen so far. I made my way out of town and low and behold I found a bar, a tea bar. There are a few blokes in here, eyes glued to the TV. I fancied a brew, so in I went. It was like in a Western when a stranger walks into a bar and all eyes follow him. I think they realised I was deadly, so left me alone. The lady said “Coffee??” I said “Tea.” She pulled up a seat for me and bless me, if there isn’t a 2nd telly with a Masters golf preview on. The blokes were all watching a kick boxing film, so I had the golf to myself, for a couple of minutes anyway, then some lads came in and put the rodeo riding one. WHAT IS THAT ALL ABOUT GRANDAD!!.
I got my pot of tea and a glass of ice. It’s the done thing, so first you are drinking iced tea and eventually hot tea. It is refreshing and good. I sat for quite a while feeling like one of the lads, then they all got up and left. Scared of the new gunslinger in town????? No, it was closing time, 16:00. I buckled up my holster and left. The people are a lot more smiley away from the market, or word has got out that I am a friendly gunslinger. I reckon it is the later, because loads of lasses giggle at me and shout Hello. Then I realise, I have buckled up my holster, but not my zip. Joke. I think my walk puts a lot of people off. Probably all the Cambodians who have seen me think all Westerners walk like this.
A few old fellows ask me if I want a moto, but judging by the way they laugh with their mates when I decline, I think they were just trying their luck. I ended up back at the bus stop, so checked out a few prices. They are all around 6 dollars, so I decided to wait, I didn’t want to give a plan a chance to be changed. I set off back in the direction of the hotel, I hope. There was some kids playing football on a sandy bank, by the river, so I spectated for a while. I found some gardens to watch from and they are still there, kicking holes in each other. The mozzies are on their way, so I am off to get sprayed.
Never made it, a lad came up to practice English, so we had a lesson while picking up a few mozzy bites.
After being fed and watered, I went to blog a bit. There were only me and the 2 lads running the place in there when in walked 6 young lasses tarted up and giddy. Well at first glance they were. The 2nd glance told me otherwise. They gave me some camp looks of surprise, strutted their stuff and left as 6 young tarted up giddy lads. The place was shutting after the ladyboy onslaught, well, it is 21:00, so I logged off and hit the sack.

5 / 4 = The moto driver Yeat, pronounced Yet, picked me up at 8:00 to go the floating village, Kompong Luong. It is about an hour away and Yeat’s Korean moto isn’t as comfy as Mony’s Honda. He doesn’t speak a lot of English, but a lot more than my Khmer. The price per hour for a boat at the suppy village was a bit steep. Yeat, got it brought down. We boarded gingerly, well, I did. This river is manky at the best, I didn’t want to go in. It probably gets better in the wet season, but doesn’t look or smell the best at the moment. The floating village moves about 7Km as the lake recedes during the dry season. The floating village is visible from the shore and the boatman sets off at very sedate pace. Once on the lake, Tonel Sap the water is just a muddy brown, instead of a stinking, dark, grey. It is covered by a layer of green algae over a lot of it. As with a lot of landbased villages, the church spire is the most prominent feature from afar. I wasn’t sure what to expect. As we approach it looks like a grid town, with 4 or 5 main channels running parallel and lots of side streets/channels. The LP says the village is not as friendly as normal, as there are a lot of Vietnamese here, who have been given a hard time, but nearly everyone is smiles. The kids run to the edges of their boats and wave and shout Hello. Yeat told me the village is 50/50 Vietnamese/Cambodian. Seeing as both sides are not supposed to get along there is a very friendly village atmosphere. I should have tried to organise a night here, but I couldn’t get a stop for a coke organised, so I don’t know what I would have ended up doing.
After puttering up and down the channels, it is just like any land village, but on water. There’s grocers, TV repair boat, butcher boat, fishmongers, at the outer edge, there are 3 petrol station boats and just like on land, the grocers sell Johnnie Walker bottles of bootleg petrol. There are also mobile shops rowing between houses and if any house wants something from them, they just yell and over they paddle. There are loads of fruit and veg mobiles, a baguette lady, fish lady, perrywinkle kids, a water delivery boat, even a lady in a canoe selling CD’s and DVD’s. There are cafes, that I couldn’t get to stop at. A Buddist temple. Lots of motor repair places. Boat not car motors I guess. 2 schools, one for the posh kids with desks and chairs and one for us snotty nosed kids with benches packed solid. Later school must be over as the school boat, not painted yellow, comes passed and the kids wave and shout. There are pet dogs on the boats. I even saw a floating pig sty in the supply village. No wonder the water is manky. I can’t get over how friendly everyone is. It would have been a great experience to have stayed here, but the water is used for everything. The pots are washed over the side of the boats after scooping the algae away, the washing is done, people wash in it using scooped out bowls of water to throw over themselves. I watched one mechanic overhauling an engine and he just dumped the oil over the side of the boat. It must not be too bad. There are barrel loads of fish at the several fishmongers and corals are full of some floating vegetable.
Loads of the boats have TV aerials, so I could have watched the match. They must use generators or batteries. There is a floating mobile phone shop too, but I didn’t see any floating McD. They are not everywhere after all. There is even a village tramp. She paddles around in her canoe checking out the rubbish. This seems a great community and very smiley and there is no hassle from the Tuk tuk (not toot toot in Cambodia, I have discovered) drivers. Everyone jumps in their canoes and paddles to the shops, church or neighbours. It has been a good outing, but I am starting to frazzle as the sun gets hotter, so we are off back. Yeat tries to get me to go to some local hills, but I didn’t fancy it on his moto, so after a drink we set off back.
I had 40 winks. I put it down to the red hot sun. Any excuse. I woke to the sound of thunder and the start of a storm, the heaviest I have seen. It lashed down big time, so I had a read and did a bit of housework, I sewed up my cutoffs pocket. The TV stations went off, then the electricity. It soon heats up without the fan, but then the generator kicked in.
After the rain eased, I headed into town for my bus ticket. Easier said than done, when nobody speaks English and all my Khmer is aw kohn, thank you. They didn’t sell tickets to Thank You. I was about to give up when Yeat showed up. He told me he is a police man, but I reckon he works at this bus stop place. He said he’d pick me up 8:20 in the morning. I was going to walk the 500m , but for 12p, what the hell. I went for another sit in the gardens and another English lesson, then grabbed a butty at a roadside café. I don’t know what it was, but she made it fresh and it was tasty. They didn’t sell tea though. Strange!! It is football night again, but everywhere here is closed by 21:00, so I grabbed a beer to take back, fixed the TV after the storm, bad connection and watched some football.

The rest of Battambong time.

2008-04-19T22:05:00.000-07:00

2/4 = Out with Mony, pronounced Mooney, on his moto today. He is the one who picked me up the first day in Battambong. He suggested I don’t go to the killing cave of the Khmer Rouge and after speaking to Martin and James, he is right, it is a bit of an uphill hike, so we are off into the countryside, but only after he insisted I have some breakfast. He pointed out a bakery over the way, so I grabbed a couple of pastries while he waited. He is ad-libing it as we go along, but it was thoroughly enjoyable. We stopped first just outside of town for a bottle of Johnnie Walker, full of petrol. I have discovered that this petrol is smuggled in from Vietnam, so is cheaper. If I told you how I discovered that, I’d have to kill you all, so just take my word for it. We motored along the country lanes, Mony looking for something to stop for and he spotted a mobile rice mill. I don’t think he knew what it was himself. The was a lad repairing, or overhauling it. After he replaced a couple of drive belts, he set it going and was tapping slides and adjusting bolts, then put it into neutral by pushing a piece of wood that slid the wide leather drive belt onto and idler pulley. Thomo will understand. Now he took a cover off, did a bit of tweaking and set it in gear again. Now they were happy with the resultant rice, not too much chaff or small rice. “It took me back to the good old days, before all this electronic rubbish, when you could see what was going on”, said the grumpy old man. It was impressive that the machine with an old Nissan engine, a new Chinese engine, and constructed of part wood, part, leather and part metal could produce 3 different products at the end. Mony had been chatting with the owner while I watched the overhaul and seemed happy with what he now knew, so we headed off. The owner takes the mill around farms and separates the rice for farmers. I think he takes meal and small rice for animal feed or to sell as payment.
The next stop was at a place that was house and work place. 2 ladies were surrounded by 8 foot bamboo frames with 8 inch white circles on them. I had no idea what was going on. They are rice paper that is used to wrap the fresh spring rolls. It is clever how the process works. A rice liquid is spread over a metal cone, similar in shape to the hats worn in the fields, and the cone is over boiling water, when the paste gets to the right consistency, the 1st lady transfers them to a bamboo former, a thick piece of bamboo to cool and the 2nd lady transfers them to the frames. The fire is fuelled by rice husks. Nothing gets wasted around here. I could sit and watch people work for hours, as the saying goes. There were a lot of these places in the village we are in. It often seems that villages specialise in certain crafts.
Next up was the mushroom farm, but this was bad timing, as the compost was due to be replaced, so instead of producing 30Kg, it is now only producing 5Kg per day. The compost is sterilised in a steamer first then the fungus spores added and put into rolls about the size of a new kitchen roll, held in plastic. A sprinkler system, like that of a fire extinguisher system in a hotel, sprays the compost daily. There is another method using straw in the front garden, but this doesn’t look as productive. This place also grow bean sprouts. It looks like they are thrown in a pot, watered for 5 days then sold on. Mony asked if I would give 2000 riel/12p to each place as we go along. The young lass in this place was reluctant to take it. She is about 14 and in charge whilst her Mam and Dad are away. I never got out of Mony where they were. She has to attend school too.
We carried onto a ruined Wat and new pagoda with a huge Buddha. There were some stalls here, so we had a coconut to drink and some vegetable and noodles. Mony told me to add sugar, lime and some homemade chilli sauce and this worked, because it tasted great. I think the Khmer food is not so spicy, so that you can spice it up yourself, to your required taste. Mony then had his coconut split open, sprinkled sugar on it and scooped it out. “It’s like coconut ice cream”, he told me. Mony gave me a rundown on Cambodia’s recent history while we sat here. They have had it tough and nobody seems to have much faith in the present government. I went for a wander while Mony finished his coconut and had a swing in a hammock. I wasn’t going into the Wat, it cost a couple of dollars and didn’t look much. I came across some kids playing a local game with big brown nuts. It’s a bit like skittles. They shouted me over and I was on my way when the Tourist policeman turned up. I had to sign a book to stay around, but the gist was he wanted 2 dollars off me. I told him I wasn’t going into the Wat, so then he decided I didn’t have to sign, so I headed off back to the kids and he said that was 1 dollar, so I gave up and went back to Mony. I paid up for the food and drink, 2 dollars, unbelievable and we set off through lots of dry paddy fields to a monument. I thought “Why has Mony come here?” Then I spotted the skulls in the windows of the monuments. It is a memorial for some of the victims of the Khmer Rouge, found in this killing field and a monument to what a set of bastards the Khmer Rouge were. The engravings are very graphic and the torture descriptions very blunt. This was the saddest part of my travels so far. It’s not real what us humans will do to each other at times.

We travelled on over some bumpy roads and the moto developed a knock. Mony went along checking out the roadside home/businesses, hairdressers, tailors, grocers, then he found the bicycle/moto repair shop. He pulled in and a few thumps and adjustments were tried and finally we were on our way at the third attempt. We were headed for the dory/bamboo train. I didn’t know what to expect. The rail line to Phnom Phen is only used once a day, in alternating directions, the train comes in one day and leaves the next, so the locals make use of the line with norries to move themselves and cargo along the track. On the way here, we pulled over by the roadside to wake a lady in a hammock and buy a water melon from her. Mony was tapping them and chuntering with the lady over which one to take. I said “That one will do”. To which he told me another tourist had him travelling around the stalls to find a good one. It cost about 40p and was delicious. We shared it around while waiting for the bamboo train driver. Mind you we were lucky to get it there, as I was carrying it on the back of the moto over some dodgy roads. There was an Irish lass turned up for the train too, so we shared one to reduce the costs. She looked a bit nervous when the driver turned up, he is about 15 and him and his mate started constructing the norry. It is a small bamboo platform that sits ontop of 2 sets of train wheels, like barbells, one with a small engine. The track is up and down with big gaps in it and this is the main Phnom Phen line. I think I’ll be going by bus. It is constructed in no time, the 2 motos loaded up and a mat put down for us to sit on, then we are off. The ride is more like a fairground ride than a train ride. We met 2 norries coming the other way, but they had no passengers, so our crew jumped off and helped dismantle it, push us passed and then reassemble it. A bit further on a load of wood is being taken across the track and loaded onto a trailer behind a Honda 125. This held us up for about 10 minutes, but I don’t know why, we could have gone passed, but it was entertaining. Once we set off again, we arrived quickly. 8 dollars for 2. Daylight robbery, but good fun. Back on the moto and homeward bound. Mony stopped at the taxi rank to check out prices to Pursat, my next port of call. It is 5 dollars with 4 people in the back and 2 in the front. I think it will be a bit of a crush, so opted for the bus at 6 dollars. The bus is the Phnom Phen bus and it doesn’t matter where you get off, the price is full fare for Phnom Phen. Back to the hotel and a sit on the bench out the front. It is a good spot for a chat and a watch. The moto drivers like to chat. I have stopped here each night before hitting the sack. I did an ATM run, so I could go to the Riverside club for some nosh and after a shower, Mony told me he would take me. He asked what I was doing tomorrow, normal soliciting. I told him I was just going to do some interneting, so he immediately dragged me off to the Internet café, he said he wanted to check his emails. This turned into a bit of a saga. He couldn’t remember how to do it, what his userid was and perhaps the spelling of the password. Now I understand why he wanted me along. We got there in the end and his last email was from June 2007. Someone had set it up for him and she was the last and only one to send him an email. He is thinking ahead, but I don’t think Mony is set to be an IT person. I wrote it all down for him, to give him more chance the next time he uses it, probably Christmas. Now he asked me to wait for 5 minutes while he does a bit of shopping, then he can drop me on the way home, so 3 days later, here I am at the Riverside Club. The music here is good, local music, blues a good mellow mixture. To carry on with the local theme I ordered a decadent burger and chips. The beer was local. The burger was smashing, not like fast food. I sat and chilled for a while reading in the balcony bar above the river, no shoes allowed. This is the life. Another beer and a big time chill and I set off back wondering if I’d be able to pick up a moto. I went about 50 metres and an old fella pulled up. We did the usual bartering. 1 dollar. No, 2000 riel. 3000 riel?? No 2000 riel, then I walked off and he gave in. It is only 50p, but fairs fare. Why should us whities be stung. Back and no sitting chatting on the bench tonight, straight to bed.

3 / 4 = It’s a complete relax day today with an e-session. I went to the bakery and bought a baguette and raison twirl, but fancied a brew, so went to the café on the market. I struggled a bit, but got a pot of tea and the menu. I didn’t fancy any of the noodles or rice, so ate my baguette. I went to pay and the young lass who served me told me the tea is free. I’ll be back here. I felt a bit guilty, so coughed up a few riel, which the lass took very sheepishly.
I found a bench in the shade by the river and sat for a relax. It wasn’t long before a lad joined me to practice his English, genuinely, no scam. The sun moved so I did too, I was headed for the Internet Café, but spotted another bench in the shade and it was lovely and cool to sit on to. The ones that have been out in the sun are like storage heaters. I was checking the LP for some place to go to next and a Frenchman joined me, Phillipe and started chatting. I didn’t need the LP now, he knows everywhere. He has been coming for 15 years and lives in Thailand until the rainy season comes, then he sets off to S.E. Asia. He has some good stories and speaks good English and like to use it. He is a Buddist too, but doesn’t push it at me.
A young lad joined us and asked if we would like to teach an English lesson for the poor kids he teaches. The village is about 7Km away and he will pick us up and drop us back and we can give a donation if we wish. Phillipe is up for the teaching, but not the donation, which seems fair to me. He teaches in Thailand and tells the lad he usually gets paid for teaching or at least free board when he volunteers. I am up for it too. A few Geordie speaking Cambodians has to be a good thing. The lad now tells us we can get a moto for 7 dollars, which is way over the odds, also he is sad that we wont donate anything. He has picked on the wrong one in Phillipe. He gave the lad a real lecture, but is still up for the teaching. Now the lad goes cold on the lift and keeps pushing for a donation, so I guess it is a lie. It is the same lad who approached me yesterday, but I didn’t stop. Phillipe gave him every chance, but the lad left, complete with flea in ear.
We sat a while longer, 2 grumpy old men putting the world to rights. He is well up on affairs in S.E. Asia. He has a bias towards the Thais and is a bit wary of Cambodians. He thinks there will be unrest after the June elections. Something for me to keep an eye out for. He headed off for a Wat to find an old monk to talk to, as if I didn’t fit the bill???
I finally made the internet café, a few hours later than expected and afterwards I realised I still had my raisin twirl, so off for a coffee I went.
After showering I went for another free pot of tea. Who is tight???? This time I ordered some food, fried rice, chicken and veg. I added the spice as shown by Mony. I was actually headed for the Smokin’ Pot, but they were packing up at 19:00 when I got there and I couldn’t face the ladies with their kids again. What a whimp!!!! I tried to force myself, but copped out. Then it was back for a natter on the bench outside the hotel and bed.

http://picasaweb.google.com/brooks.gilbert/SiemReapToBattambong

Knocking about Battambong.

2008-04-13T23:29:00.000-07:00

1/4 - Nobody played an April fool on me as I had a pot of Darjeeling and too much fruit salad for breakfast, then I hired a bike for 75p a day, all from the same place. I hopped onto the bike and headed for I don't know where. My first stop was on a road bridge, partly to take pictures and partly because I couldn't get over the rise. A wagon full of dirt came over while I stood there and the bridge bounced like billyo. Time to move on in case another comes along. I came across Wat Kandal, a big old pagoda, so I rolled into the big grounds. Before the temple there are some old French style houses. I found out these are the monks housing. They were a bit rundown, but still nice buildings.
After circling the pagoda, I sat in some shade to do a bit of writing and after a few minutes some of the monks joined me to practice their English. If they want to study abroad, they have to have good English as the teaching abroad is in English. Cheang, the first monk to come over, is a bit shy and keeps covering his teeth. I thought it was because he has buck teeth and when I told him not to cover them, he told me it is because he has bad breath. THere's honesty for you. A second monk, Macchem joined us and stole the show. His English is very good and after Cheang left he wanted to practice more, so we wandered around to his room around the other side, it is cooler and has a table outside with chairs. It turns out Macchem is a supervisor monk, so has a better pad. I didn't go in, but saw through the door, a PC, stereo and lots of books. He showed me some of the books, I even took down a couple of titles. I may become a monk, but it is more probable that I'll just get a monk on. I bet I spent a couple of hours chatting, so have probably set Macchem's English back about 5 years. I was surprised that he smoked. He is 26 and tells me he is doing alright in the brotherhood, if he is to be believed. COME ON, he's a monk of course he can be believed. It seems a lot of poor, young lads become a monk for the free education. Macchem seems to have been fast tracked through the monk boy, (attendant) and novice phases and now does an hour a night on the local radio station, DJ Monk, when people phone in with questions on Buddism. He told me they have to get their own subsidies, but I left without giving one. I felt a bit guilty, but obviously not guilty enough. I can't subsidise everyone, I'll end up taking refuge in a monastry. I cycled a little further and found another pagoda, it was almost next door. Some young lads waved me in, so I went. More English practice, this lad had lost his Dad, so wanted me to be his godDad. I explained I wouldn't be around to be able to do so, I don't know if he understood.
THere was a commotion going on down a track, so being a nosey git, I went for a look and bumped into my nearly godson. There were lots of rides for small kids and food stalls. The lad explained it is for the opening of a new pagoda and an opportunity to give donations, so I did a quick exit. I think I am turning into a Yorkshireman. When I got back to the main road a moto made a swerve in my direction and when I crossed over he swerved back. This one is an English teacher and wanted me to stop, but I felt a hit coming on, so I declined. He then offered a visit to his village to see the children. The visit to the village may have been good, but I am sure it was a hit on the whiteman's wallet. Anyway, I thought I had better get back to my side of the river, so I crossed the pedestrian and bikes bridge, no dirt wagons here. I checked out a statue of a multi-headed serpent and it was made from weapons handed in after an amnesty and after the Pol Pot times. I decided to go for a beer at the Riverside bar, but luckily enough missed it and ended heading out of town and found ANOTHER pagoda. The paintings that adorn these temples, mostly of Buddha, look very basic to me, almost childrens work, but I guess that is some kind of style. The engraving around them is very detailed and more becoming in my eyes. I thought they were moulded, but spotted 2 ladies creating the engravings in a wall of still unset cement.
I carried on a bit through lots more waves, smiles and hellos and came to a rickety looking railway bridge. This is the main Phnom Phen line. I stopped for a gander around the river. THere were kids and adults down there playing and bathing. A couple of real scamps walking over the railway bridge, it is only used once a day in one direction, spotted me. They scurried over the bridge shouting HELLO HELLO, so I returned the gestures. I have never seen people get so much fun out of saying hello to a whitie. The 2 scamps, or more acurately, the head scamp, shouted for his mates to come see the Barang, foreigner and 6 turned up in the end. The last being the tiniest and snottiest. I bet he sits at the back of the class, if he goes to school. They laughed and shouted having so much fun it was infectious. After I took their photo and showed them it, they became even louder and 3 old fellas on perched on their motos by the bridge were laughing too. Eventually, they scampered off home, so I thought I'd do the same. This time I found the Riverside bar, so stopped for a gander and a beer. Out here, nearly all the houses have huge clay pots. I wondered what they were for. Water storage is one use, as 2 young lasses, barmaids I reckon, at the Riverside were in sarongs and soaked, they had washed their hair and were dipping into their makeup bags, just like back home. They had a good giggle when I took their photo too. I asked first. I had my beer in a very nice veranda bar overlooking the river. I bet that is where the name comes from. I'm not daft me. Then I went for a bit more roaming and took the bike back. It had to be back at 17:00 and belonged to a cafe, where they sell cakes, so coffee and cake it was.
After a shower I thought I'd head for the Smokin' Pot for some FOOD, but it was full, so I ended up back at the White Rose, as last night. One of the ladies was there with her kid and gave me a big smile as I went in. Then I felt guilty eating food while she sat on the kerb. Especially with loads of kids running around the restaurant with ice creams and everyone ignoring her. One lady looked to give her some money.
The table next to me left all sorts of food, so when they got up and left, a young lad came in with a plastic pint pot and helped himself. He crammed all sorts into it and went off a happy lad. I was going to get a take away for the lady, but gave her the money. I figured she can probably get more that way. I'm at a loss with this, I can't get my head around it at all.

Siem Reap to Battambong by boat.

2008-04-07T22:07:00.000-07:00

31/3 - Last night was a hot one, but only because of the heat. The bus turned up on time. I bagged the seat with the leg room, then twigged we wouldn't be staying at 3 people so moved out of the way. We ended up chocka and someone didn't show. It wasn't far to the boat. We passed through a village on big stilts. The lake Tonel Sap, has receded a fair bit being dry season. The houses don't look much, but some of them are really smashing. In the open ones I saw TV's, water coolers, smashing dark wood furniture and the floors shine. Cambodians seem to start the day, whether at home or work, by sweeping the floor with the brushes and brooms made from natural materials. Some of the houses are not so flash, but still tidy. Some have bamboo floors, so there are gaps, which must be cool and handy for when washing the dishes in a bowl, any splash just drips through. It may be why there are no coins in the country too, if they are dropped they are lost. I was surprised how smart the shacks were, but should not be. That is a bit stuck up of me. Sorry.
At the boat and off the bus where loads of lasses bombard us to buy bread, water, fruit, cheese. "Nothing on the boat sir." They are not letting us out of their sight, so there is no rush to buy. They are always smiling and friendly. I don't know how to explain that it is nice hassle, but it is. They don't just take your money and run, as they move amongst people, they always have a word for you when they get back to you and the smiles are warm and in their eyes too.
We got to the boat and it is a bit hard to describe. An English speaking bloke, who was picked up from a posh hotel, sees the boat and exclaims "Is THAT it????" He was a bit reluctant to get on.
It is a fiberglass shallow shell with a longtail motor and canopy, no seats, just a ledge down each side. OH OH, to get to it is via a plank over water. There is a handrail. It brought back memories of my Dad crossing something similar to get to a lough staging we were fishing from in Ireland. He ended up swinging from the rail, while me and our Gil laughed. He must have been watching over me, I made it.
The LP says this is one of the most scenic boatrides in Cambodia. If that is the case it is not for the landscape scenery, but the people their homes and villages we pass by on the way. It is one of the most uncomfortable journies I have made, but I would go again tomorrow. Once on the lake, there are walls of fishing nets everywhere. It wouldn't be easy to traverse the lake without knowledge of the route. The nets stretch for hundreds of yards, funneling the fish to an area at the end. We passed a floating village that moves as the lake recedes and rises. It had loads of shops, a church, everything usually in a village. We passed similar village along the side of the river, once we left the lake. People move around on canoes. There was a kid alone in one, who could only have been about 4.
These fast boats that we are in are not popular with the villagers. It is easy to see why, their wake swamp the nets and some unattended canoes. As they are heard, people come out to steady their canoes. Having said that we stopped and picked up about 4 people from the villages. One old dear with her son and 5 boxes of fish. This is a great experience. The old dear is funny.She bosses about the boat crew and some other lads who have joined us and they all make a fuss of her. She has a great gold tooth smile. Her son was a bit shy, but eventually gave a smile and I had him trying to roll his eyes.
Not surprisingly for people living around rivers and lakes, fishing is the main stay. I don't think we were ever out of sight of a net or trap. There are lots of piles of fish on boats and houses, but there are lots of herons, terns, cormorants and quite a few different storks, so there must still be plenty of fish around. The water is varying shades of murky brown and where an offshoot joins the river it is 2 shades at once, side by side. We pull into the floating services at this point. It is pretty good too. Not Forte, but tasty and cheaper too.
It is really interesting to see how the river or lake molds the villagers lives. They wash in it, do laundry, wash up squatting by the side of their home. One kid squatted by the side, then his Mam splashed his bum. Work it out yourself. Along the river there are loads of groups of kids skinny dipping laughing and having a great time and there are lots of hellos and waves when they see us. The adults are a bit more dour, that may be the fast boat thing, but a lot still smile. The villages contain everything, grocers, hardware shops, garages, petrol stations. I don't know why I am surprised, it is only commonsense really, that everything should be available. A lot of the houses have TV aerials too and I spotted one satellite dish. There is the equivalent of the mobile shops too, lasses paddling along the river selling fruit and veg from house to house. One lass pulled up at a shop in her canoe, shouted to the proprietor and he came out with her goods. There were quite a few water buffalo along the way too and a crocodile farm, a few more lads boarded here. The boat is now chocka. This is a great adventure and there is a big surprise at the end, a bloody big set of dodgy steps and the handrail only starts half way up. A lad offered to take my big rucksack when he saw me struggling with the small one. He did a lap of honour when I gave him $1, I thought he was going to have a party the way he went around showing all his mates. A dollar well spent. There are mini buses at the top waiting to whisk people away to their respective hotels. The bloke who collared me got impatient and told me to jump onto the back of his moto. It was cool, me with my big pack on, he had the small one up front, bustling along on a Honda 125 weaving in and out of the traffic. I'd fancied a go at this, another tick on the list. The lad asked what kind of room I wanted, cheapskated again, single with fan. He grabbed 2 keys, but the cheapskating bit back, they are on the 4th floor, no lift, but I made it and for $4 it is the business, fridge, TV. I'm chuffed, so chuffed I am off out for a coffee and brownie.
I have not been sure about Phnom Phen, but while I was having my coffee and cake, 2 German lasses joined me, tall, blonde and lovely, no towels to throw. They were telling me how much they loved Phnom Phen, which cheered me up. They have the same feelings about the Cambodian people as me too, regards their smiley, warm character. The cafe wants to close, 18:00, so I wandered off into the sunset, no doubt a very sexy sight. I ended up at the river. The town does not seem a big place. There is an obvious French influence in the architecture and there's some Art Deco. There is a lot of construction going on around the river, so there seems to be an effort to make the place aesthetically appealing to the tourists. The promenade has been paved, but does not look to have been done with great enthusiasm, it is creaking already, benches broke, stones raised and missing. I sat on one of the benches to find out where I was and was quickly joined by a young lad wanting to practice his English AND HE WAS. He was enthusiastic, curious and friendly, just like I would have expected before I started my travelling and had my view tainted. I never got to check the map, it was too dark when I moved on. I had to move on, the lad would have talked all night. I found a restaurant and ordered my pot of tea, it's a Chinese Cambodian place, ordered my food and in walked Martin and James, who I met in Siem Reap. 2 good lads having a good time on their tour. These 2 make me seem organised.
2 ladies with a kid each are sat on the kerb at the edge of the restaurant, one has a part of each leg amputated and drags her baby along with her in one arm. I don't know how to handle this, no matter what I do, I don't feel good or enjoy eating food in front of them. Martin and James, as usual, ordered shed loads of food, too much and Martin gives me a lesson in what to do. He takes all the fresh spring rolls they haven't eaten and gives them to the ladies. Then there is a funny follow up. One of the ladies comes over and asks for the sauce that goes with the spring rolls. She brought the dish back later. I felt really proud of the lads, so I suppose that is what to do. The ladies didn't bother anyone, they just sat and waited, giving everyone a big smile. I guess I need to order more food in the future. I handed over my packet of Oreos I'd been carrying around on my way out. I went for an efix on the way back, but got thrown out. The place was shutting. It looks like Battambong closes down at 21:00, there is hardly anywhere open. I headed back and got invited to sit on one of the benches outside the hotel door. How could I refuse. The moto driver who invited me was after some business for tomorrow, so I told him I had a moto booked, then he offered to get me a lady. With all the preliminaries done, we sat and had a good chat, then I hit the sack. One good day in many.

Another lazy day.

2008-04-07T21:36:00.000-07:00

29/3 - Up and at 'em with a fruit salad to make up for yesterdays fry up. Off into town to try and phone up and book a trip to the bird sanctuary. I have seen booths by the side of the road with the area codes they can phone, but I have never seen a phone in them. I know why now. I stopped and asked a lady if I could phone the bird place and she handed me her mobile. I can't go anyway, it does not run trips over the weekend, so I blew that one. The boat to Battambong goes close, so perhaps I'll get to see some birds then.
Running around on the bike is great. I nip back and forth to the Guesthouse willy nilly now. Before when I left, it was for the day.
It looks like an early start on Monday to Battambong, so I'll watch the football tonight and pack tomorrow. That is pretty decisive, so that wont happen.
I took off on the bike to find the land mine museum, 5 or 6 Km out of town. I went along the riverside dirttrack for more look at the residential areas. There are houses on stilts one side of the river and big posh places the other side. There is a big imbalance in wealth here, more signs of the corruption. The river does not smell and I guess the sewage goes into it, as I saw a lady hoy a dish of water over her balcony into the river, on the poor side. I passed a load of school kids on bikes again, or rather they passed me. A couple of the little lasses were too small to reach the pedals for the full cycle, but they had the knack off perfect of waiting for the pedal to come around. One even had her younger sister on the back. A few of the kids give me stern looks, but I give them a smile or a Hello and there faces light up usually. I headed over a bridge to find the main road, as I must be getting close. I came out at the ticket office for the Angkor temples and the bloke pulled me over. There is no access without a ticket, supposedly. I told him where I was headed and he told me to carry on. I thought I'd check my direction with him. "The land mine museum is up here on the right?"
"Yes, about 25 to 30 Km."
Not on my map. It was about 1Km. They've moved it he told me. I tried to head on to the river and sit there, but he was not for letting me through now, so I did a U'y and headed back to town.
I am getting loads and loads of big, wide, happy, smiles as I cycle along. I do like the Cambodians.
I stopped to pick up a sliced mango from a roadside barrow and came to the conclusion that it is the blokes who are the scammers. I asked the lady how much and she indicated 2000 riel, then a bloke on the bike next to her, selling bread, said something to her and she said $1, 4000 riel. I frowned and the lady next to her who spoke fair English said 2000 riel. I had a bit of a laugh with the $1 lady, a good laugh and then a bit of broken chat and was off again. Out here and in town, there are loads of flat barrows with perrywinkles and cockles spread on them. They are the most common stall here. I would take a picture, but my camera has bit the dust. Too much abuse and lack of care. Into town for the obligatory coffee and cake, then back to the guesthouse for the necessary shower. Had a typical Cambodian snack, tomato bruschetta and then it is into town to see if there is an early kick-off. NO!! nightmare. It's enough to drive you to drink, so I had a beer, then an efix then back to Bar street for the 22:00/15:00 kick off. The lady boys have laid off now. A lady did come over for a natter and took pity on me when I told her I was staying in a $6 guesthouse. She invited me back to her $10 room. Why did she have to wait until the game had started??? I reckon I could have used my charm to get her to stay around, but thought I might watch the 2nd match, so played it cool and she left. In other words, I was dumped. After the 1st match I was deciding whether to watch the 2nd, when all the tables and chairs around me started to disappear, so I took that as a NO. I did sit on the bike outside a bar and watch the Sunderland highligts. Sitting on the bike stops hawker hassle, although one toot toot did offer to take me and the bike.
30/3 - Flo was definitely right about staying out of the big cities. I should have left Siem Reap yesterday. Not to worry, I have booked the boat ticket to Battambong for tomorrow, 6.00 pick up, so have packed. Off to buy a camera, mine keeps stopping and starting. Other than that, a day out on the bike sweating buckets, out for and Indian, very nice and bed early after saying goodbye to T.

A lazy day in Siem Reap.

2008-04-07T21:00:00.000-07:00

28/3 - Started with a fry up to make sure I didn't go fast, then trudged into town. I stopped at a watch stall to get some batteries for my reading light, until he asked for $12. "$12 !!!!!!!!!. You are joking". He took the price down to 6, but the damage was done. I walked away, before I reached 10 metres the price was $1, but being a stubborn git, I cut my nose off to spite my face and kept going.
Got myself a bike with gears and a high seat. Now there'll be trouble. Had an e-fix and a coffee and a doughnut and off for a cycle. Siem Reap is not an outstanding town, it is functional and has lots of tourism building going on, but it does have a warm, cosy, small town feel about it, I think I'll linger a couple of more days before heading to Battambong by boat.
I passed a big school, a lot of the kids are leaving now, mostly on bikes, so there were lots of hellos and smiles. A lot of the locals wear surgical masks, especially on bikes. It is the dry season and it is dusty. Sometimes it could be for the smalls, but Cambodia does not have the array of smells India has, or as often.
There's a smashing big park here, so I set off in that direction, but via the riverside residential area north of town. These are interesting places to see how people live. There is a net part way along the river, this one is to catch rubbish though. There are signs around the river "Don't put rubbish in our beautiful river. Judging by the rubbish in the net, the signs have little effect. I passed. I thought I had blown my navigation to the park, so set off for some benches I say by the river and found the park. Magic navigation. The park must be the hit the tourist" spot". A couple of lads came over telling me how they were studying and needed sponsoring. The second one got cut short, as I told him about the first. I should have recognised the "Can I speak English with you?" The first lad blew the no chance he had when I told him I had given some money to 2 students already and he told me he didn't believe me. Not typically Cambodian.
"I think Siem Reap will take a dive for the worst in the next few years." stgom (said the grumpy old man). I hope I am wrong the people are too nice for it to get a bad reputation, they are always laughing and joking about, but Cambodia is developing fast and us tourists and our dollars seem to have that kind of affect.
I am getting back on the bike to get the happy juices flowing again. I think it is like Flo says "I'm better off out of the big cities", I do enjoy Siem Reap, but it may be time to move on.
Cycled around a bit more and passed the benches by the river that I was looking for before. Back to the Guesthouse after a nice cycle around and a beer and shower.
I went to watch the Apsara dancers again. I blew ordering my food, the fried rice with veg and chicken was good, but the spring rolls I ordered were not the crunchy ones I thought, but big ones wrapped in rice paper and 8 of them, not 4. I don't like to leave food, but I couldn't manage all these. I have really taken to the dancing, probably because I have not watched anything like it before. The food here is around $6 or $7 a go including one drink. Cheap, but not as cheap as India, the budget has definitely taken a hit since I left India, but I have been diving along the way. I headed back for an early night, but Tuy Vuthy, T, the bar lad was sat alone, so I had a drink and chatted to him. You'll never guess what he would like to be. OK you did, a tour guide. It must be the job of the moment. The Khmer are not daft, they know the trend to follow. T didn't try to hit on me for money though, in fact he gave me a book to read about the temples. He is using it to study. We had a scan through it and I tried to explain some of the words he didn't understand. I'll never make a talking dictionary, no wonder I failed English twice. T is a smashing lad, very unassuming. I hope he gets his dream job.
It's the witching hour, so I am off to see if one has flown into my room.

Hitting temple saturation in Angkor.

2008-04-05T03:30:00.000-07:00

27/3 - Last night Martin and James were telling me about 3 temples they visited. The grey matter must have been mulling it over in my sleep and today is the last day of my 3 day pass, so I decided to visit 3 more over breakfast. They are only supposed to be small ones too, so I set off to town to pick up a toot toot. I set off the quiet way, to miss the "in your face" drivers. I had only gone about 50m and there was a toot toot driver lolling in the back of his toot toot. He said he was busy, nice way to be busy, but flagged down another in seconds. The price agreed we are off and at a nice sedate pace. IT took about 30 minutes to get to the first temple, Preh Khan. I was wrong about the small size and they are a bit off the beaten track and not so easily walked, at least this one. THis one is up and down into and out of corridors. I'm glad I came. I thought I was templed out but this one is Same Same but different again. This one is quiet and relaxing. The toot to0t ma gave me an hour, but I could have sat another half an hour just soaking it up. Never mind, it has been a good experience.
On to Ta Som. THis one is a small version of Ta Prohm with the huge trees trying to take back their territory, it is not as impressive as Ta Prohm, but still impressive. On the way to another gate, there's a young lass selling postcards, books etc. Business must be slow as she is swaying in a hammock, so I took her photo, which prompted the request to buy something, but I happily declined. Guilt got the better of me on the way back and the good fun the hawkers have with you, so I bought some postcards from her and a local type scarf from her mate not for the cold, it will probably end up as a sweat rag, but they get used for dust masks, sun blocks all sorts. Don't expect a postcard, buying them is one thing, sending another and don't worry that I have gone on a spending spree, both cost $2 total after a bit of bartering. This one is a small temple, but the tree claiming the West entrance is huge, so it is on to the next one, not the one I asked for, I don't know why, but I didn't chase it. This one is Preah Rup. I never knew it was the wrong one until I went looking for the water feature in the central temple. I did a lap of the ground floor and there was not entrance, so I thought it must be at the top. I was half way up the big steps when I realised it was the wrong temple, but too late to turn back now and it was a challenge, but only a small one for someone as fit as me with his stick in hand. It was well worth it, the breeze is terrific, in fact a strong wind, so I sat and savoured it for a while. There is a good view up here too. This temple is a bit different, the carvings are good and there is no getting inside. It is a bit like a pyramid. I clambered up out of view of the toot toot driver as he was becoming over fussy, but went down on the side he is parked. I made it 2/3 rds of the way before he came pelting up. It was good of him, but it is difficult to convey that some things are easier done alone.
Anyway, that is my templing done for Angkor and for someone who is not a temple person, I have thoroughly enjoyed it and done it at my own pace. Off back to the guesthouse. There are loads of Cambodian workers in hammocks on the way back, suspended between 2 trees. I reckon they pack them in their lunch boxes. They are a great idea for a place with this climate and so many trees. Have hammock will crash.
Back at the guesthouse, the toot toot man tries to line me up for tomorrow, normal practice, but tomorrow is a rest day. Into the bar, but not for a beer, I've been going to have some of the chocolate banana bread all week, so I did and with ice cream, it is delicious, why have I waited so long.
I forgot to tell you the other woman thing. I think the lady boys are taking effect on me, I bought myself a gorgeous little purse with delicate pink and purple embroidery. I got fed up of pulling soggy notes out of my back pocket and when I moved them to the front, they were crushed or hanging out, so I couldn't find a small wallet and a purse it is. I look quite cute using it, well perhaps not, but I don't look a right nancy either, I have not been tapped up since buying it. I headed for a coffee shop next, Martin and James recommended it, but it was shut, so was the one over the road, so I begrudgingly went and had a beer. HONEST!! I moved on to Temple Bar, surprisingly situated in Temple St. I sat downstairs people watching until I noticed that there is Apsara dancing upstairs, so up I went. There is a whole team of them here, 5 lads and 5 lasses. The better dancers just flow elegantly. I think I am in love with all the lasses, their costumes and makeup are beautiful. I think I will come back for a 2nd viewing here.
Time to head back, I am starting to flag. My ego has taken a big boost tonight, I have only been offered sex by women, well, I'm pretty sure. I went back the busy way and must have had 50 toot toot offers and about 20 massage ones before I hit the sack.

Going for temple saturation in Angkor.

2008-04-04T07:01:00.000-07:00

26/3 - Had a lazy, but not late start. I even washed my sandals as they were starting to dance to the tune they were humming. I did a bit of reading and decided to go to Angkor Thom, a collection of temples including the Bayon. I thought I'd toddle along at last light, so went for an e-fix and a wander first. Madeline was just coming back from her early start as I left. She looked knackered and stressed, but said it was beautiful to see the sun rise at Angkor Wat and her pictures backed it up.

I had the e-fix and walked out to bump into Madeline, looking even more knackered and stressed, so we went for some lunch, then she went back for a power nap, her best decision of the day. I strolled around Central Market, Psar Chaa and as usual bought nowt.

I sorted myself a toot toot to drop me at the Bayon and pick me up around 18:30. He wanted $10 until I mentioned the mini tour only costs $12, so he dropped it to $8, which suited us both.

I was dropped at the east gate and shown the market stalls where we would meet later. From a distance the Bayon looks average, but once in side face to face with the 216 smiling Buddha faces, it is very impressive. This is definitely Indiana Jones territory. As the sun drops and changes the look of the faces, it becomes even more impressive. It is a great place to sit and could have sat for ages, but it started to fill up and being selfish I left, plus I was wilting a bit, so I guzzled some water and set off for another temple, 200yds away. I got there and it should have been restored by 2006, but is still shut, they must be working at my pace. It was worth a peek though. Although I am only 200 yds from the Bayon, I cannot see it through the thinned out trees. Before the jungle was cut back for restoration and tourism purposes, it could have gone unnoticed from about 20 yds. I read that very little of the entrance fee gets fed back to the upkeep and restoration of the sites. One of those corruption stories. It costs $40 for a 3 day pass and after 2 days, it seems good value to me. I was wilting even more after this temple, so headed back towards the market stalls via some of the palace ruins. This is one impressive place. The palace ruins lookout onto a parade area, now a big field with the waiting toot toot drivers having a kick about on it, but not mine. I went over to sit on a bench and watch the match, but the ref must have blown for time when I got there, they stopped.

Angkor Wat, the well acclaimed temple, has dropped another place in my temple top 10. Bayon is a great place once inside. THere is always one of the smiling faces looking at you. It is very relaxing and atmospheric. Same Same but different to Ta Prohm.

I am early, but after a couple of laps of the market stalls, there's still no toot toot, so I bought a pineapple from a very smiley lady and sat on a tree stump to devour it, they are lovely and juicy, very sweet, the pineapples too. This is hell of a place, Angkor Thom, the enclosure. There is said to have been 1 million people here in its height. That may be a bit of an exaggeration, but I wouldn't be surprised at 100's of thousands. This is some construction achievement for 11-1200's. There must have been lads and lasses as muscled as me to get these stones so high. 18:15 and still not toot toot, so I wandered over to the Bayon for a low light shot and he toot tooted in. We stopped for a photo on the way back at the gates. There are 54 gods and 54 demons lining the entrance. This was in some film too, Tomb Raider I think. Back to the hotel and I'm going nowhere tonight, the sun has sapped my strength and frazzled my enthusiasm to walk into town, besides there's no football on.
So it was showered and into the bar for some tasty Khmer curry. I am getting the hang of this Khmer food, it is either gingery or coconutty. Watch the Oxford Concise for the introduction of coconutty as Cambodian tourism explodes. I planned a bit of logging and a bit of readdy, but I got nattering, I'm turning into a woman. (More of that soon)

And so to the Angkor temples, or a couple anyway.

2008-04-03T01:05:00.000-07:00

25/3 - Breakfast after another night under the mozzy net. I don't know if it is needed, but I haven't been bitten yet, so it is staying. A young French lass, Madeline, introduced herself at breakfast. I think she is a bit unsure being on her own. I ended up sharing her toot toot to Angkor Wat, a huge temple, but let her get on her way after the 1st 20 minutes. She was on a temple tour and I was on a Gil speed stroll. It was a good move, she seemed happier after a bit of a natter and I am happier strolling. She is a canny lass and has a real sexy French accent. This temple, Angkor Wat, is highly acclaimed. According to the LP, people only come to Siem Reap to visit the surrounding temples, which makes me unique, I came because it was on the departures board and Air Asia fly here, also a visa is obtainable at the airport. I didn't know there are shed loads of temples here. Anyway, Angkor Wat is a bit of a let down after its build up. Possibly because of the size of it. The moat is about 100m across and the grounds are huge. Once into the central area which houses all sorts, baths, corridors, bas reliefs, the temple it is a bit special, especially when I sit for a break in the shade of the courtyard where the temple towers up I begin to feel the ancient place is a bit special, still not awesome though. I tried my hardest, but could not get awestruck. It is hell of a place, just a bit overstated.
The main towering temple is closed, which is a blessing in disguise, as a set of stairs complete with banister have been built to the top, so I would not have been able to resist. The original steps look very steep and dodgy, but I may have been tempted. The breather over, I moved out into the ground and came across a small temple, with monk housing next to it and a "Poor Childrens school". This is the second such school I've seen, perhaps they are run by the monks.
I moved on and eventually out, after several water stops. I am sweltering and leaking like a shower again. I wandered the local stalls outside the temple grounds and decided on some fried vegetable, egg and noodles. I thought I had better give the meat a miss, though the chicken and fish looked great on the spits. There were a couple of families in here too, noshing and quaffing back the tea, while they had a good old laugh. These seem a very happy people and it is great to sit around them. There is also the ubiquitous hammock slung behind the tables. It looks like it is for a kid, it's so small, but the stall holder climbs in and she is asleep in no time.
Time to move on. I asked the waitress how far it was to the next temple, Ta Prohm. "3 Km" she told me, so with this knowledge I went off to get a moto (motorcycle lift). $5 dollars was the asking price, it came down to $4, but I still thought that was a rip off, so moved on, only to find my knowledge was wrong. It was $4 and a lot farther than 3 Km.
Into Ta Prohm, again it is huge, with great tree roots doing their best to destroy or engulf the temple. This is more like it. This knocks spots off Ankgor Wat. It has a Tomb Raider tree and Angeline Jolie gets a few mentions, so I guess some of the film was shot here. I don't remember the tree, so must have been distracted by Miss Jolie, although I find that hard to believe. The temple and grounds have a great feel to them, if slightly spooky as the huge trees try to take back what was once there space. Ta Prohm has the feeling of an old holy place whilst being wild and soothing too. There is still more to explore here, but I am beginning to wilt, so make my way out and bumped into Madeline on her way in. I was going to hitch a ride, but she is going to watch the sunset at another temple and I'm ready for a beer and a shower. At the stalls I bought a pineapple and sat peoplewatching whilst I ate it. The sun is starting to dip and it's still hot, but a smashing time of day. There is no toot toot or moto free, they are all waiting for the people they dropped off. I asked a toot toot driver the score. He said it's $5 dollars back to town, but everyone is booked up. He disappeared and came back with a lady who can sort me out a moto. $6 dollars she said. "Hang on, it's only $5 by toot toot!!"
"Ah, but there are no toot toots" she replied with a knowing smile, then dropped it to $5.
Fair enough, it looks like a suppliers market and I enjoyed the ride on the back of a moto to town.
I had that beer then the shower and headed into town. If I'd laid on the bed, I'd have been asleep. I went into the Dead Fish restaurant for some fish with ginger. It was delicious. There was also free Apsara dancing every 20 minutes or so. The lady dancer moves very controlled and slow holding a gold vase. Her legs, feet, toes, arms, wrists, hands and fingers seem to be telling a story. It is very beautiful, as is the dancer , in fact she is a stunner. She came back next time with a lad for a couple of dances. She looked elegant and poised, completely smooth in her movements, he looked like he was in a rush before the second half of the match started. I guess the dancing is along the lines of the Geisha dancing. It was more beautiful than I thought it could be with no extravagant movement. IMPRESSED!!.
Back to the guest house for a beer and bed. Madeline was in and came over to repay some dollars I'd loaned her and for a natter. She does not strike me as a solo traveller. She like to have someone to talk to and discuss plans with. She has some great facial expressions that colour her chat. She is off to Angkor Wat to see the sunrise. There's no way I am getting up that early. She tried to team up with 2 lasses she is rooming with, but they couldn't come to an agreement.
I'm doing another Gil tour tomorrow, so time to hit the sack.

An easy day in Siem Reap.

2008-04-03T00:15:00.001-07:00

24/3 - I decided on an easy day today and it was going well until I bought a pineapple from a lady with a street barrow and sat on a step to eat it. Then I noticed bikes for hire in the shop next door. The seat could have done with being a bit higher, but the lad said it wouldn't, but it has gears, a bonus. I'm on and I'm off, not literally, off down the road. What a good move this is, I love being on a bike, the rest of the traffic aren't so chuffed about it. You need four sets of eyes for this. The right side of the road seems to be the side you start from until you can be bothered to move to the correct side. This means there are 4 directions of travel, but there is some logic, if you are on the wrong side of the road, then you stay near the kerb and then drift over the road as the traffic thins. It didn't take me long to get used to it, as I started from the wrong side. I set off following my nose and before I knew it I was out of town, cycling beside the river, how cool is this?
At first sight, some of the local houses don't look so clever, but on closer inspection some are not bad and some rough, but most interesting. A lot are on stilts, sometimes housing a workshop, or shops below and living quarters usually up a height. Most have hammocks strung up below too. They are the number 1 piece of furniture in Cambodia. I passed one house that wasn't a patch on my Dad's pigeon loft, but inside there were a couple kids having a laugh, a TV on the go and a young lad on his mobile, so that is Cambodia I guess, appearances can be deceptive. The front of the house was completely open, to let the breeze in I suspect, this is one hot country. I was told it gets to 45C next month and in May.
There are plenty of bridges along the river and over these is where one residential area is. The bridges are on the other side of the road, so I swivel my head through 360 degrees, close my eyes and head over, when I open them I am on the bridge. PHEW!! Our Val has probably just wet herself in panic. I'm 54 and still alive, at the time of writing, so I must be doing something right.
The river is a bit murky, in fact a lot murky, but I saw a lady swimming in it with her toddler earlier and there's a bloke stood in it fishing with a net, so there must be something alive in it. It is mostly the colour of the earth that has it murky. Some of the housing is not what you may desire as your riverside retreat, but just across the road, or dirt track, there are some big places with sliding gates, very posh. How the other half live is within easy sight of both parties. I continued along the dirt track and a lad about 16, comes chogging out from the stilts of a house. He wanted to practice his English. I should have remembered this from India. I believe he did want to practice his English. He wants to be a tour guide. His Dad is a farmer. San, his name, told me about a temple not far down the track, but I declined his offer of him showing me around and set off again. I came across some silver and gold bananas hanging outside an orange gazebo, so I pulled over to look. As I stood peeking in, my toes on my right foot felt like they were on fire. I looked down to see some red ants not happy at my presence. It didn't burn for long and this was not the temple, but it looked like some monk school. Dirt tracking again, I came across an old pagoda, which I guessed was the real temple. I stopped on the bridge across from it and watched a bloke fishing when 4 lads stopped at the otherside of the bridge and just looked at me. 1 was driving a motorbike towing a great big frame, 2 were pushing, the 3rd must have been the council supervisor. Anyway, I twigged they couldn't get across the bridge with me standing on it, so I backed off and they started laughing and smiling. I took their photo as they came over and the laughing got louder and they disappeared into the temple grounds. I turned around to set off again and there sat San, on his Dad's Honda 90. He offered to take me into the pagoda, so off we went. There is a new pagoda being built next to the old one and San gave me some insight into the drawing and statues. A nipper joined us who loved posing for his photo to be taken. It was worth the visit. San then told me of another temple and ruins further down the road, so we set off, the 16 year old on the motorbike and the 54 year old pedaling. ??????? It wasn't far. San knew quite a few people along the way. One lass he knows on a bike in pyjamas, it is normal day wear in Cambodia, had a thing for San, but he never took her on. I wish a lass in pyjamas would take a shine to me. We passed a new pagoda to the ruined temple. San switched off and I fell off, not really and we went in. There was a bride and groom coming out in very posh traditional dress. They had been in here for the photo shoot. She wasnt keen on me taking a photo, but San convinced them. I watched as they left and the bride picked her gown up out of the dirt, she had rolled up jeans on underneath. We continued in and had a gander, then back out to the bikes. A friend of San's was there and was determined to show us the pagoda. He was a attendant for the monks. I could tell by his chat there was a hit coming on. It was good to see the temple. San's mate was laying on the sob story a bit thick. I didn't bite, but I didn't have to, he asked for some money, "$10 dollars would pay my tuition fees for 1 month." He was being fed and housed by the monks and taught, so I split $9 between him and San. I'm a soft touch at times. Just when I was starting to believe in human nature again. It only costs $12 for a toot toot all day. I mentioned to San his friend was cheeky asking for money, he could tell I was a bit miffed, so when we hit the main road he legged it, only to come back and stay with me to his bridge crossing. Having slagged these lads off, it is not the norm to be touted in Siem Reap. This blog is like the news, it highlights the bad bits. Both lads wanted to be tour guides, it seems the profession to have here, but I think they may have it wrong, the toot toot drivers are the rip off merchants.
This mornings toot toot driver was slagging off the army and police, saying how corrupt they are and only they can afford posh apartments and Lexus 4x4's, which do seem common around town. Some of the business stories I've heard do point to corruption being rife.
Back on the bike, I didn't want to head home too early, so I stopped for a well deserved beer. I thought I had better have some food with my next one, I didn't want to be biking half cut, in the dark, no light, people on the wrong side of the road and me wearing a black T-shirt, that sounds like a short cut to the hospital. I went to the Red Piano, but never saw it and had some Khmer pork with ginger and sauce, very nice too. I took my bike back and headed back for a beer before bed.

Hanoi or not !?

2008-03-30T03:08:00.000-07:00

23/3 - I had about 3 hours to wait before the Hanoi flight, so I grabbed a coffee and a delicious piece of cheesecake and caught up with my log. Moved on to check-in after trying to get some Vietnamese dong, but the exchange don't do dong. Got to the checkin and didn't. A visa is needed before I can go. How can someone be so stupid???
"Easily". I say. I thought I had checked, but I guess not. It takes a few days to process one, so I went over to the departures board, sat on my rucksack and sulked. Not for long though, I spotted a 7.00 flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia, so I sidled over to the bookstall and checked the S.E. Asia LP. Visas obtainable at the airport, $20. Sounds good to me. I didn't rush it though, mainly because I don't have a rush in me and the ticket office is not open. I went back to my rucksack and pondered a while. The only other option is Bangkok and I do have to change the date of my flight to Aus and there is a Qantas office in Bangkok, but I don't really fancy Bangkok, so I queued up and got a ticket to Siem Reap. $60, pretty good, cheaper than London on the train. I'm happy and quite excited. I checked in and paid another quick visit to the bookstall to get the name and address of the first Guesthouse in the Siem Riep section. Sounds a bit too much like planning, but I'll pretend it isn't and hope it works out. Onto the plane and shock horror, I slept most of the way. I did surface for a quick butty, then back to sleep.
Into Siem Reap airport and it is very posh, not like an airport, very colloquial, whatever that means. There are statues in the immigration area and the building is typically non-airport, Cambodian at a guess. It is well organised too, the visa desk is obvious and the forms are all out ready, everyone is very polite and smiley. Immigration takes about 1 hour all the way through, even after the officers were doubled, but they have last years World Series baseball on 2 large flat screen TV's, so that kept me occupied. There are more Buddha and elephant statues and everything looks wooden, it is a really nice airport. As usual, I am close to last out, my rucksack is a bit lonely on the carousel, but it is there. I thought I had better get some Cambodian riel to pay my way, but all 3 ATMs only give dollars. I have since found out the currency is dual, dollars and riel, especially in towns. I thought that would mean everything would cost at least $1, but fractions are paid in riel, $1 worth 4000 riel, I think that is a round up or down, local thing.
There is a prepaid taxi stand too, which is always welcome to us non-barterers. I told the taxi driver the name I had plucked out of the LP and then he proceeded to do his best to get me to go to somewhere of his choice. A couple of lines were "It's hot, you'll need a pool" and " The Ivy guesthouse is usually full". I stuck to my guns and we rolled up at the Ivy Guesthouse. I must confess when the cabby said "Ivy 1 or Ivy 2?". I thought there was a scam on its way, but I gave him the address and he took me there. Funnily enough, the rooms here are all Aircon at $20 and I asked for a fan, so the lady said I would have to go to their sister Guesthouse. You guessed it Ivy 2. The taxi from the airport was $5 and I stuck $1 in my back pocket as a tip, when I got out of the taxi the money was sticking out of my pocket, some of the local lads spotted it and told the cabby, who told me to push my money into my pocket. This gave me a nice feeling. The transfer to Ivy 2 was free by toot toot. The lady there showed me the room, $6. That'll do me. Luxury. I thought it had no shower, but I found it tucked away behind the door.
So far everyone has been very smiley and not pushy, even the taxi driver when he tried to get me to go elsewhere and I got a smile out of the deadpan immigration bloke, but I think it was when he looked at my passport photo. I think the change from Hanoi may have been a stroke of luck. I can work my way gently back into the backpacker life from the diver life. I think there will be less hassle here. I also think my life should be that of a backpacking diver, it suits me, apart from the leg thing. If only I'd known earlier. Don't wait people, when the kids are independant, find that niche and go for it.
I settled into my room and in that time I have been mozzied more times than since I left home. These mozzies are 24/7 and they are stealth mozzies too, they can't be seen or heard. They have a cloaking device not even the Klingons can master. I was begining to curse the Health centre nurse for advising me to bring a mozzy net, that I have carried for 2 months and not used. Now I am pleased I have it. Had a quick bite in the guesthouse bar. It is pretty cool too. Took a wander and picked up a bottle of water off the market and picked up my first riel in change. Both currencies are just mixed and matched as available. I saw a swap, buy, sell bookshop near Ivy 1, so I set off in that direction and picked up a LP for Cambodia, $4. 12 quid in the UK. How does that work? Not complaining, just wondering. I was starting to flag and melt after the early start, so went for an efix. They are usually cool places. After a while, my eyes started to close as I typed, so I guessed it was time for a nap. I even took a toot toot back.
I had a good kip and woke up to some heavy beats and a gobby kid on the pool table. Perhaps I should have paid the extra dollar to go upstairs, but I didn't fancy the stairs. I finally hauled myself out of my room and had a coke fix, the sugar boost kind, not the powder kind and hit the streets. I got offered plenty of massages, all above board I think. Lots of toot toot and moto lifts. Motos are a motorbike lift, possibly not a good idea for me. I got offered weed, sex and finally someone asked what I was looking for.
"A bar with the football on." You may not believe this, but I found it down Bar Street. I should have guessed. I worked my way through the crowd of ladyboys outside. How did I know they were??? Come on I'm an expert now. I opted for a green curry while watching the football. It didn't have the kick of the Thai version, but was nice. The ladyboys had not given up on me, but they slowly died off. I had a few offers from ladies too, so perhaps Cambodia is becoming the new Thailand. I had a few beers watching the football, could only manage the 1st half of the 2nd match then headed for bed. I got plenty more offers on the way back. I even got offered a gun. Well, he said "You want boom boom boss". What else could it have been?? A land mine I suppose.
I read a couple of pages and was out like a light.

Diving's done for now. Back to KL.

2008-03-30T02:54:00.000-07:00

22/3 - Alas no diving today, but up sharp and down for breakfast. Chuan is down too, then Richard, the usual suspects. Did a repack and ready to go, but there are still 4 hours to go, so did a bit of reading, a bit of chatting, a bit of dossing and it's time to go. Sad, but what lies ahead??? The first hiccup, only one bag turns up at Semporna on our boat, but the other arrives on the next boat with the Singapore group, a lucky break. A nod on the bus and we're at the airport. The flight is announced along with its 4 hour delay, not such a lucky break, although in the spare time I learned to play Chinese poker, not very well, but I learned. The delay is not too bad for me, as I am going to hang around in the airport until my Hanoi flight at 6.30, so at least I have some company for longer than expected. We will arrive about 1.00 a.m. so it's not so clever for the rest. We got on eventually, after a lot of the group have been off buying T-shirts. Everyone is looking tired now. I slept most of the way. I don't know if the others did, but I suspect so, especially as they seem to be sleepwalking off the plane. I managed to catch everyone except David at the exit. I am not good with goodbyes, but glad I caught them. I have had a great time and they are a really friendly bunch. Now I have even more friends in Malaysia.
And that was the Sipadan chapter. Don't blink, or you will miss the Hanoi chapter.

Sipadan day 3. If we must.......

2008-03-28T04:39:00.000-07:00

21/3 - What will today have in stall for us??? The group is a good mix, the friendship has grown over the last few days and it is always a good fun atmosphere. Everyone helps me out. Yvonne runs around after me like I was her Grandad, Chuan keeps an eye on me and Richard loads me up on the boat before throwing me overboard, well it's really a voluntary back roll, sometimes with help. I am getting lorded over. If Richard is busy with someone else, Amir the dive guide or one of the boat crew help to get me into the water. It could be embarrassing, but everyone is so easy with it.
The team photo is starting from the back the old fella, Paul from Chorley, Catherine, David the Aussie, Apple, Yvonne, Fei, Foo, Richard, C Y and Chuan in the trunks at the front. Back to the blog.
We are off to Sipadan first thing today. Mid Reef is to be our first stop, but turns out to be our 3rd. On the way there some dolphins are spotted, so we power over and stop to watch a while. Then there fish spotted leaping out of the water and a flock of frigate birds above them. The guess is the fish, possibly tuna, are feeding on smaller fish that they have herded to the surface and the frigates are taking advantage of it. It is a really good sight. The diving has not started yet and the day is already a success.
We finally make it to Mid Reef after checking in with the Army/Marine post on Sipadan and the now very enjoyable with lots of banter back roll sees us above a beautiful coral garden. Down we go, over the edge to the wall and it's sharks and turtles all the way. At one point there are 6 to 8 reef sharks patrolling behind a big old tuna. It looks like they are stalking it, but I think they are waiting to pick up any scraps, like the frigate birds. I spotted one reef shark, but couldn't tell if it was a white tip as something had taken the tip off its dorsal fin. There's a big old Napoleon wrasse hanging around here too, there must be some fun or feed around here. At last I spot a scorpion fish, I have been looking every dive. For some reason these masters of camouflage attract me. I looked around to see if there was anyone around I could show it to. Only Richard is close enough. I signaled him and he heads over. I look back to point it out, where the bloody hell has it gone, I'd picked out a marker too. I found it in the end, chuffed with myself. Back to drifting along and a few yellowtail barracuda hover above, then a school of jacks appear as we round a corner, they are circling tornado like, this is nice to watch, so I did for a while. Then I drifted out from the wall a bit, into the blue to get a bigger picture view and it is even more impressive out here. This dive is as good as Barracuda Point. I hang around at the back of the group, checking out the anthias and just sauntering along doing my own thing. It is good to be confident enough to linger at the back and good for the ever watchful Richard to be happy with me there. He came along and complimented me on my buoyancy, which was a very nice boost. I guess he is a good teacher, No!! I know he is a good teacher. Another beautiful dive comes to the end of the air. The vis was brilliant, which goes a long way to making a dive even better.
Back on to the idillic Sipadan for our mid-morning snack and the obligatory break. Paul was on this island 23 years ago when it was possible to stay on it and there was only about 12 of them, the only people on the island. That would be a tremendous experience. I took a stroll along the beach for a few snaps and got talking to a smashing Irish lass, too smashing, I burned my napper as we stood there chatting. Back to the boat and the bitter sweet experience of another dive at Sipadan, but alas the last for a while. South Point the destination this time, the furthest away dive spot around the other side of the island. Over the side we go again. My pressure gauge has an air leak, I pointed it out to Richard, who signalled that it is only small. He's right, but for peace of mind, I set work fixing it. For the doubters in my family, I did too, whilst swimming along at about 15 metres down, so stick that in your pipes and smoke it.
The vis has dropped since the first dive, but it is still wonderful, plenty of turtles or sharks. I love trying to drift up or down to a cruising shark, but they tend not to hang around too long, unlike the friendly turtles. There are butterflyfish, angels, anthias in abundance. The butterflyfish include regals, emporers, banded, all sorts again. Paul demonstrates how to play Superman with the anthias by shooting his arms out towards them and they disappear in an instant into rocks and corals, only to reappear a longer instant later. This is up in the coral gardens about 5 metres, as this is the safety stop of our last Sipadan dive. Sad but brilliant. I have had a time of my life. I hope I get to dive here again. Time will tell. Yvonne invited me back in July, or asked Richard to, once she found out I was around this part of the world a while longer, but I should be in Australia by then. It's back to the rig for some dinner, with the only sighting on the way back the usual flying fish, still brilliant.
I can't believe it's our last day diving. It may be a good thing, to allow all the experiences to sink in. They can become mixed together with the dives coming so fast. I log sighting in the wrong dive, if I don't do my log the same day and still then sometimes.
2 more dives this afternoon, around Pulau Mabul close to the rig. The first at Lobster Bay, or some similar name. This turns out to be the most exciting of the trip. I spotted a red fire goby early doors, then Amir finds a stonefish, even more of a camouflage expert than the scorpion fish I spotted earlier and more venomous. Paul had us do a group concentrate on the boat to try and make an eagle ray appear, but we only see blue spotted rays. Yvonne got the blame because she didn't know what an eagle ray looks like, so must have had the wrong thoughts. There were a couple of moray eels and a lot of nudi branches. You had to be quick to spot them as the current picked up as the dive went on, so the drift became a good old pace and very enjoyable, unless you wanted to stop and look at something. It is a great feeling to drift along as if motorised, suspended in the water. We started to go up above 10 metres and now the current was ripping through. The only way to stop was to grab a boulder. I grabbed one and it came away. Chuan gave me a nudge into the current and I grabbed another and hung on flying like Superman as the current lifted me up, but I had a good grip. Just as well as C.Y. came heading my way. I grabbed her leg and she grabbed a rock. Eventually we were all there, like 10 Supermen or Superwomen hanging onto rocks. It was a real buzz. I could feel my regulator shuddering in my mouth with the current ripping through. This was a different safety stop, hanging onto a rock, checking out the coral garden and its inhabitants. For grabbing C.Y., I got a mention in her log as a drawing. She has the most original dive log I have seen. She logs highlights of dives by drawing them. Thanks for the mention C.Y. I am honoured. After the 3 minute safety stop we let go of our rocks and drift up to the surface, where it is flat calm. I don't understand that, it is beyond me. That's probably no surprise to you.
Back to the rig for a brew and biscuits. The boatcrew and Amir are hard at it swapping gear while we have the easy life. So to another bittersweet moment, the last dive. Yvonne and C.Y. do some leaping of the hoist, they are the big kids of the group, then it is over to Paradise 1, where we met the current the other day. It now seems a mere ripple after the earlier dive. There is no current today as we drop over the side and head down to be met by a horned cowfish. I'm sure it's the one me and Chuan saw the other day. I picked out a couple of banded pipefish hidden under a coral and then a waspfish that looks like a piece of seaweed. It is bigger than the one we saw on the night dive, but these are good spots for me, I'm not the best at spotting the small stuff. The leaders find 3 ornate ghost pipefish, then David an octopus. I spotted a big old turtle out in the murk, so set off to check it out, but he was having none of it and buggered off. Then a cuttlefish, they are nice to watch, shimmering and changing camouflage as they hover. The vis is getting decidedly soupy as our last dive draws to a close. Sad, but just what the doctor ordered.

Thanks Richard, for the invite and the tender loving care. You not only made me feel like Superman, this time I looked like him at one point. You are passionate about your diving and caring about your divers. I hope your life is always as happy as mine. CHEERS!!

There was talk of a night dive, but it has been substituted by a visit to Mabul after the dive is over, before we head back to the rig. It was good to walk around and see the villagers. There are a lot of kids there and they all seem to be having fun. Richard came to rescue me from some of them after a handout, but I had it under control, being a Grandad, I have that scowl that travels the world, it means "that's enough. Pack it in." A bit of shopping in the local shop/huts and it's back to the rig for the last time. Tonight is barbecue night and it is held on the sundeck. What a beautiful place to eat, we should have been up here every night. The weather is great, the company perfect and I even had a few beers. Richard gave an end of jaunt speech and I got a special presentation of a PADI T-shirt. A very happy moment. I am Richard's oldest student, at 54. He is very proud of me and I am chuffed to bits at the presentation.
One of the staff is giving it rice on the guitar. He has a great repertoire and must have played for hours. Paul moved over to assist and greatly amused our group with his singing and dancing, we were well impressed.
People started to drift away, so I found a deckchair, faced into the wind and chilled watching the stars. I sent some texts to the kids and sat a very happy man.
Paul came over and we sat and did the chinwag bit, it was a great night. We called it a day at midnight and left the crew still singing away, but now in Philipino.
THIS IS A GREAT LIFE.

http://picasaweb.google.com/brooks.gilbert/MabulSipadanAndAroundThere

Another day diving. How boring. I think not.

2008-03-27T23:26:00.000-07:00

20/1 - Up for a repeat of yesterdays serious breakfast. I need the energy and it is lovely.
Off to Ribbon Reef first today, just of Pulau Mabul. This is a long lazy dive, a good start to the day. I'm surprised how many turtles there are cruising by. One has 3 remoras cleaning it up, big remoras, so the turtle must have been big too. The remoras look like fish from outer space, weird. There was a beautiful, juvenile batfish, chocolate brown with a red trim. A good job the ladies never saw it, they'd have scoffed it. This is a good dive to practice buoyancy. Once you get this right, gliding through the water is such a great feeling. Just a gentle kick and you glide along floating through the water, no fighting going up or down, as you glide if you want to glide over an approaching fan coral, just breath in and you drift up as your lungs fill. If you want to drop to check what is under the huge table top coral below, just breath out and down you go. You will have to do it to understand how great it feels. This dive is over after a long hour of gliding.
NEXT... after a brew and a snack, Froggy lair. Guess what we saw??? Close !!! A frogfish, my first and bright yellow/green, only a small lad, but nevertheless my first and good to see. This is another enjoyable dive. There's lots of scaffolding, frames and a boat to float around, scrutinising for whatever may be there. I didn't have to do much scrutinising for the shoal of jacks patrolling inside one of the frames. They were circling around inside the framework, very impressive. As usual, there are plenty of soft corals and I never get fed up of watching the anenome/clown fish, Nemos, protecting their hideaway. They are as cute and as fun as Nemo and very brave too. The water got a bit murky towards the end of the dive and the group was split in two, but Fei saved the day, he had spotted which way the other went. We had become distracted by a Spanish dancer Amir, the dive guide, had found. They are flatworms, very colourful, this one was black with a red trim. When lifted up through the water, they ripple as they dance their way back to their resting place. Seeing it is better than the description. Anyway, time is up again, so back to the rig and some dinner before trip 2 to Sipadan. The journey is about 20 minutes to Sipadan and there are always flying fish, gurnards along the way and I am sure I spotted some dolphins, but there were more doubters than believers. At Sipadan this time it was another drift along the wall from West Point before we are landed at a deserted beach for tea, butty and cake. I thought it was only allowed to land at the army base. Shows how much I know. I was really impressed this morning how the diving had improved my knee. I should have known better. I went over getting off the boat, so now I have a bruised backside too. I must have been rushing for the cake. It was a bit of a jolt, but I went for a float in the water and then the next 2 dives put me back on track. The diving really does clear it up. It looks like I shall have to have a life of diving. The next Sipadan dive is Turtle Cavern. This is a bit of a cave complex in the wall where some turtles have gone in and not been able to find there way out in the dark, so there are some turtle skeletons in here. 2 Japanese divers were found in here, also dead, lost like the turtles. DON'T WORRY, we have a guide and with my sense of direction, how could we get lost???? There was 7 of us went in and 7 came out, so that can't be bad. Not the same 7, but hey, you can't have everything.
Cave diving is not my thing. There's not a lot to see, at least not in this one. We saw the turtle skeleton, but no Japanese. Once the bottom gets disturbed the vis becomes bad and disorientating and in pitch black, it must be very disorientating. I would like one more go, with less of us, so the bottom doesn't get disturbed. I had a peak over the wall behind the turtle skeleton and it opened out into what looked like a cavern. It would have been nice to have a quick look, but there were too many of us. Paul said coming out with divers silhouetted in the light of the mouth was a good sight. No arguments here, it was. Once out we drifted along the wall again. It may sound boring, all this drifting along the wall, but only if you didn't want to be down here. Perhaps a comparison is driving through the Scottish Highlands and not noticing the mountains, blue skies, eagles soaring. There is a wonderful experience to be had if you are open to it. There's the expectancy of looking out into the blue and spotting a whale shark, manta or eagle ray. They didn't appear, but you never know, so keep glancing to the blue. Besides, if I get bored I can always do my turtle imitations. They just waft their flippers and go miles and fast, if they wish. They look cumbersome and sometimes are, but who cares when you live in an armoured car. They always manage to get to the piece of coral they want to munch and just glide into the small cutouts on the wall for a kip.
Alas, another dive and another day at Sipadan is over, so clamber back onboard and back to the rig, looking for the flying gurnards, or anything else you may spot, who knows perhaps that illusive manta ray.
A night dive is in the offing. Sitting at breakfast this morning the thought was "There's no way I'm doing 5 dives today, especially the last one, being a night dive. It's infectious though. It is like our Mandy opening a bottle of wine and saying she is only going to have one glass. I get up in the morning with aches and stiff, but after one dive, I feel like a million dollars. This is no bull, no aches after one dive. I don't know if its the effects of the water pressure or the adrenaline buzz, who knows. I should start every day with a dive. If only!!! Anyway, in case you haven't guessed, with some gentle persuasion from Paul and the loan of Chuan's torch I went and it was brilliant. The first night dive I have really enjoyed and my second frogfish and this one was a monster. It got a bit crowded around it, so after everyone moved on, I went back for a 2nd peek. This is a wonderful world down here, we saw all sorts again, but it is safety stop time again.
Last night from the rig main deck, we were watching a big school of rainbow runners, a very big school, with a few barracudas on the outside. Tonight they came to check us out at the safety stop, thousands of them, so a few of us drifted out to them, like Mr Barracuda last night. This was a smashing experience and completely unexpected, a great way to end the dive. Getting out at the rig is made easy too. The hoist lad lowers it into the water, so we just swim on and stand up, a bonus for me and the others too, they are pleased. Up for dinner, fill the dive log in and bed for this well and truely knackered, happy lad. If only we could feel this good when we come in knackered from work.
The adventure just continues on.

Sipadan for real today and in at Barracuda point.

2008-03-27T22:28:00.000-07:00

19/3 - Up and feeling good, a quick splash and down for breakfast. I gave the noodles a miss for breakfast, but demolished an omlette, toast, coco crunch, juice and fruit. Hey, it's going to be busy day. The coco crunch are great, I fell in love with them when I worked here. It was raining when I came down, but is starting to brighten up, which is good for vis underwater. The rain here is warm, so nice.
A quick dive briefing and on the boat to Mandarin valley, Pulau (island) Kapalai, about 10 minutes away. The sun is out when we roll back into the water and it shows the colour of the corals up great. I'm already thinking it is a beautiful world down here. There are a few small wrecks and an old house frame, put here to make an artificial reef and attract the fish. One of the wrecks has the biggest snapper I have ever seen in it. You'd get a few fish and chips out of him. It is good maneuvering around the artificial reef, some of the objects are big enough to swim in. There's loads to see down here and it is a good relaxing start to the day. Back to the boat and onboard no problem. I even enjoy just bobbing by the boat waiting to get out. I suppose it is the sunshine and the excitement of what is to come on the next dives. You can dive the same spot several times, but the dives are never the same. Conditions and what you spot make each one different. Back to the boat for a brew and quick snack. One thing about diving, you can eat for fun and it gets burned off, within reason. Another dive brief and we are off to Pulau Mabul, just over the way, to Paradise Reef 1. Richard the trip organiser and the instructor who put me through the first dive course I did, tells us this is a nice easy, relaxing dive. Back on the boat, meanwhile the lads have changed the air bottles and sorted us all out. Roll back into the water, we all gather together, lots of OK signs and we are on our way down again, INTO THE BLOOMING CURRENT. I got over the initial surprise and produced my secret weapon from my BCD. A pair of gloves with webbed fingers. The old legs find it hard going into this current, but with the aid of these gloves, it's loads easier. My buddy, Chuan, was so enthralled he almost missed the horned cow fish we ran into, until I drew his attention to it, we milked it for a while and moved on (Mick joke). The current starts to ease and get behind us as we head for the reef and the hard work was worth it. This must be where Richard's easy, relaxed dive starts and it was a real treat, we just drifted along. There were a couple of crocodile fish, a shoal of jacks, cuttlefish, lobster, loads of nudi branches, which are little colourful, fancy, slugs that come in all colours. Some divers get well into them and spend most of the dive looking for them, they even have their own website, where new finds can be published, but I have not caught that bug yet, they are interesting enough, but I like the big in your face stuff. We passed a big old turtle, just hanging around on the reef and I mean big. There was a banded moray eel easing around the rocks below the turtle. This is a smashing dive, but air is getting low, so it is up for a safety stop and up to the surface, where there was a general winge about the current, which was a nice boost for me, everyone found it hard going. Apple was digging her hands into the sand and dragging herself along at one point. Not recommended, but funny. After the winge came loads of praise for how good the dive was and we haven't been to the main attraction, Sipadan, yet. That's to come after a spot of dinner.
Now we are on our way to the famous and infamous Sipadan and straight into the most famous of its dive sites "Barracuda Point". Diving is great, but diving places like this cannot be beaten in my book, even though we don't see the barracuda. There are reef sharks, turtles, thousands upon thousands of tropical fish, butterfly, damsel, angels, anthias, triggers. There are too many to try and remember them for checking out in the books back onshore, or onrig, it is too confusing. This is probably the best dive site I have been to, but perhaps I am just over excited. It is like swimming in a huge aquarium. When diving at Sipadan it is always a let down to have to surface, but air is getting low, so we have to go up. Everyone is raving about this dive, even the most cynical. To keep the mood going we land on the gleaming white sand of Sipadan for a brew, sandwich and (they knew I was coming), a piece of cake. Some go for a swim in the clear turquoise water off the beach, it is like a paradise island. There is a round of photos, a bit of a relax, then on board for our 2nd Sipadan dive, this time at Hanging Gardens. Again the lads have changed the bottles over.
It is hard to match Barracuda Point, but this site does its best. The wall that is underwater Sipadan is a huge magnificent, rugged, landscape, full of huge spaced out corals, fish roaming everywhere they please, beautiful fish and it drops to at least 600 metres. I have heard different depths up to 1500 metres, but suffice it to say, the bottom is out of sight and I'm not going looking for it. There are small cutouts, that seem to be a favoured resting place for turtles, every so often you come across one crashed in there, bored with the sight of these humans swimming by. Other times glancing out into the deep blue, a turtle glides past and the same below or above. Initially, it is difficult to take your eyes off the wall. The corals on the wall may be sparse, but they are big, some of the fans are huge. Diving here is a great sensation, but air is getting low again, so we start to ascend. The safety stop is a 3 minute hover or swim at 5 metres, it helps release some of the nitrogen built up in the blood. At Sipadan the safety stops are great. The coral gardens start above 10 metres. These are magnificent collections of colourful corals, teaming with fish. This really is aquarium time. Like Paul mentions, when the sun is out you could do with sunglasses, it is so bright and beautiful. Back to the top now and the wind has gotten up making getting onto the boat more exciting, but there is more than enough help and they are getting used to me now. The lads realise I am OK in the water once I have handed my gear up and they are stopping worrying so much.
Well that was the first Sipadan visit. I doubt you can get a bad dive at Sipadan, but I am probably wrong. This is hell of a place and we have 2 more visits yet.
Back to the rig, a quick brew and then it is showered for the evening meal, more delicious Malaysian food and the pineapple is as good as that in Thailand. Fill in the logs and everyone is getting sleepy, so goodnight all.

Sipadan here I come.

2008-03-25T22:08:00.000-07:00

18/3 - 4.30 taxi to the airport. The driver who brought me here, gave me his number, so he is taking me back too. He's a good man and he didn't try to fleece me, unlike the barber I went to yesterday.
Checked in, once more and waiting for the rest of the divers. I paniced a bit when the flight started to board and they had not shown up, so I rang Richard. The problem was that is was Tiban's mobile number, but he was very good about the early call. Tiban is another good Malay friend. The others turned up anyway and we boarded. I slept for about 2 of the 2.25 hours. We got into Tawau airport and through customs, which was weird seeing as how this is the same country we left from. Apparently it is to stop an influx of Malays from the mainland to Borneo Malaysia. I was tail end Charlie again and went outside to see nobody from the group. Luckily David had sent Richard back for me. I was headed in the right direction anyway. The bus to Semporna, where the boat leaves from, took about 40 minutes and it was palm oil plantations all the way, interspersed with small villages of houses on stilts, some of them pretty big, with flash cars parked underneath in the shade. I was glad to get into Semporna, the leg room was not the best. After a short break, during which I spotted "Backpacking Divers Hostel" and made a mental note, we were on the boat to the gas rig off Pulau Mabul. It is a lot closer than I remembered. There are lots of houses on stilts on the way to the rig and they are not close to shore, although it is obviously not deep. I bet they don't have cable TV. I wonder if they have electricity. Probably not. It makes you wonder how people would adapt to no TV again.
The sea is beautiful and calm, it looks really inviting, which is just as well as we'll be in there soon.
The group seem a happy bunch, mostly Chinese Malay, with an Aussie and another Brit. I'm struggling a bit with the power and flexibility, it is probably the early start. The rig looks to be a bit of an adventure and thank heavens there's a hoist from sea level to the main deck. The rig is just across from the Water Village where I stayed last time. Happy memories. We are met by a few of the staff with a glass of orange juice as we step off the hoist. I suppose it is a lift, but there are only rails on the sides, not front and back, but if you fall off it will be a soft landing. Lunch has started, so we get stuck in too. Good Malay food, lots of fruit and soft drink. There are loads of fish just looking over the side of the rig. A bit of a relax then take the gear up to the room. We are on the 2nd floor. I wish I had understood the floor numbering before I got to the sundeck on the 4th floor. My pack enjoyed the ride. Someone did offer to take it, but ......... Macho man.
A quick change and we are off for a dive around the artificial reefs under the rig. A shakedown dive. It shook me down. I don't know if it was the murky water or the intermittent current, but the confidence was not high. A quick break for a brew and a biscuit or 6 and we are off to Paradise reef, Mabul for another dive. This dive has me back on song. There are a few turtles, cuttlefish, morays, trumpet fish, all sorts. I got the mickey taken because nobody could understand when I said cuttlefish and we weren't underwater. I had to use a Malay accent, I think.
There's a night dive going down, but I opted out. I am not a fan of night dives. Perhaps it was a good one to miss too, as there was some current around, plus I am knackered, but I hung around to socialise a bit. They are a good bunch. Catherine did a year in Newcastle studying and my room mate, Paul, is from Chorley. He used to live down the road from Kelly.
Off to bed to recharge the batteries. Hopefully it will be Sipadan tomorrow.

A day doing what I like near KL.

2008-03-25T21:31:00.000-07:00

17/3 - Up after a good kip and did a bit of sink dhobi, to try and keep ahead. Out for breakfast. There's a McD's opposite, but I think not. There's a Chinese food court on the corner. They are like mobile food stalls gathered around a load of tables. I am not back in the Malay mode after being spoiled by Henk and Jinna, but went in anyway and tried to get some fresh fruit, but gave up as my Malay and Chinese dialects are more that lacking. I ordered a pineapple juice and remembered black tea is Teh O, but forgot they lace it with sugar. Not to worry, while I waited for them I spotted the Nasi Lemak stall, which rang bells, so I wandered over and came back with rice, boiled egg in a curry sauce, fried egg; no runny yolk; cold potatoes, in a different curry sauce, peanuts, dried anchovies and cucumber, which went very nicely with the sugary teh O. If you have not tried Nasi Lemak, I recommend it. The only thing left on my plate was the banana leaf.
Full, I set off back to the Sunway Pyramid shopping mall. I needed to stock up on the immodium, you never know and I have filled my log book. Pills and stationary are a lot cheaper out here, but novels are really expensive. Just thought I'd throw that titbit in.
This shopping Mall is a huge, as well as the ice rink, there is a waterpark out the back, a serious waterpark. I think I have done enough shopping for about 3 weeks, well shop walking, so it is off to Starbucks for the obligatories, in priority, cake, people watching and updating the log. And here I am and very nice the cake is too.
Not anymore. I am back and packed for an early start tomorrow. I was on another hot date with Juliana, but she is poorly, which is a shame as she is only back here on a visit from the Netherlands. She is a special lady and a good friend, so we will meet up when we are back in Europe. If I find my way back to Chorley.
I have a confession to make. I was knackered after all that shopping and couldn't be bothered to wander, so went to McD's for some ayam goreng (fried chicken). It is partly Malay, it was very spicey. They should sell it back home. Another confession, I enjoyed it. I sat outside, which was a good move, the chocolate milkshake softens faster outside. Lekkere.
Quick blog and bed.

Where to now?

2008-03-22T23:37:00.000-07:00

16/3 - I forgot to mention yesterday that I booked my flight to Hanoi for after Sipadan. Have I mentioned Sipadan? One of the top dive sites in the world. It's a deserted island, apart from an Army base, there to protect it. The visitors/divers are limited by daily permits. Just thought I'd mention it. I suppose "rub it in" may be a better phrase. Don't worry I get my comeupance and we are staying on a converted gas rig, so not posh and last time I saw it the colour was pink, but then we'll be diving, so wont worry too much.
Anyway, I digress , or would if I knew what it meant. I was up early, so handed in my key and sat it the shade on the step. I've been cleaning a few steps with my shorts and jeans. Whilst I sat there, the internet shop ladies, they all know me in there now, finally built up the courage to ask why I walked funny. It was not easy to explain, as I don't speak Thai and their English is only as good as mine. They seemed to get the drift, or they gave up. I ordered my taxi from the internet shop, they dabble in all sorts, they do laundry here too, book trips etc.
The taxi turned up bob on time and it's the bloke who owns the internet shop. He's not daft, I wondered how he managed to do the airport run for 500 baht when everyone else charges 600. Now I know, he is the airport run. He turned up in a nice double cab pickup with leather seats. I commented on it. "This is my wifes. My Avensis is in the garage today." I would say this bloke is a businessman and will never aspire to a beach bum. He still gave me the sob story of being broke. "I'll never be able to travel like you for at least another 10 years." He'll be going 5 star though.
He took us along some back roads through small, quiet villages, all very neat and peaceful. He pointed out the palm oil plantations and the lumber ones too. It is all countryside around here, very green and lush with a smashing feel to it.
We made the airport after a very relaxing spin. After being charged 7 quid for excess weight of 3Kg on the way here, I've packed all my heavy stuff in my carry on and my rucksack is spot on 15Kg. Who's a clever lad then?
The airport is very relaxed and a bit laxidazical, which showed when the customs people come and dragged a load of us out of domestic departures and into international. There are no signs to differentiate, so it was a case of follow the sheep in front. I decided to get some breakfast once through customs, but blew that one. There was one watercooler and that was it, but I wont waste away. I heard my flight called and was stood in a queue when one of the ladies runs out and shouts "Air Asia, Air Asia, KL, KL." Most things in Asia are said twice. Glancing at the tickets in the queue in front of me, they are Thompson holidays.
"I bet that nice lady means me!!" I wasn't the only one.
I don't know if any food as served on the plane. If it was , I was asleep before, during and after. I recall waking and seeing a trolley.
I wasn't looking forward to bartering for my taxi and as luck would have it, since I was last here, a prepaid taxi stall has been installed. Chuffed to bits. The taxi driver was a nice bloke. Something strange is whenever I get a taxi from the airport, they invariably stop for gas, as they are all natural gas driven. They must sit on empty at the airport. There is no rush. After a couple of radio calls we turn up right at the hotel door. The receptionist saw me wiggling towards and through the door, then sheepishly told me the lift is out and I'm on the 3rd floor and the banister is on the wrong side. It was no problem with my trusty stick. In case you are wondering, you don't get bellhops at these prices. The hotel is only about halfway from Sunway Pyramid huge shopping centre and it is only half a mile away, complete with pyramid and sphinx, so I took a wander over. There was a footbridge to get there, with steep steps, a bit of a pain, but a good job with my track record in traffic. There's hundreds of shops and an Ice Rink. I bet not even the pharoh had an ice rink.
You wont believe this. I am sauntering through a very busy shopping Mall on the outskirts of KL and a little Malay bloke comes over and asks if he can have his photo with me. This is turning into Twilight Zone stuff. Why?? Is it the astonishing good looks??? "Na, me neither". Is it the speed I walk makes me look cool? People not knowing I am going at full pelt. There must be a reason why people want their photo with me. Answers on a postcard to our Mick. He gets lonely.
The knee is starting to ache, so I plumped for a pot of Darjeeling and some authentic Malay ham and potato bake, then back over the road bridge. There's no way I am trying to vault the 4 foot wall in the middle of the dual carriageway, busy dual carriageway.
I called into the internet cafe over the bridge. From the screens in there, I would say that gaming is the rage in KL. Everyone seems to be on some sort of Doom screen and shouting at each other. I've only ever seen this in KL.
I did a bit of blog catch up and booked a hostel in Hanoi $22 for 3 nights, pretty good. I am getting too efficient, so I am off to bed before it sticks.

The last of Thailand for now.

2008-03-22T23:19:00.000-07:00

15/3 - Forgot to put the "Do Not Disturb" sign on the door, so got an early call from the maid, very nice too. I was going to pack, but decided to go and get some breakfast. I jumped into a local bus/pickup and went to the next beach along. It's loads quieter and no shops, only a few restaurants. It looks like no cheap places either. This would have been a better spot, but "Too late." came the cry.
I found a cafe by the beach for breakfast and was tucking in when a puppy came up to the table, circled a bit then crapped on the floor next to the table. A couple of the staff came over, checked it. "Yes, that's puppy shit", then went back to sitting around. Perhaps they thought it would attract custom and sure enough 5 minutes later a Frenchman walked in. No comments about flies around shit here, we don't want our European cousins across the channel going on strike.
Over the road for a SIT on the beach and try to repair my dive computer. I can hear all my sisters now. "That's a bloody waste of time. It'll be properly broke now". True enough, it is no longer a dive computer, only a watch. I think it got cooked by mistake in India.
Back to the beach. It is loads better here, hardly anyone on it. A bit more pebbley, but pretty good and I've only heard one longtail so far. I did my rescue act too. Alas not a beautiful maiden, but a lilo. It headed off down the beach while the owners were off walking.
It's a beautiful, blue, sunny day, so sod the blog for now. I'll catch you later.
Had a lazy day on the beach, in the shade. This is a good location for a beach holiday, so I'm leaving tomorrow. I did my packing after the beach and ditched a couple more things. If I could only dig up the courage to ditch my Sunderland jumper, that would make a good difference to the room. Then I went next door to the Irish pub for fish and chips and to watch some football. I should of stuck to the Thai green curry, this Irish chef cant do fish and chips, even if it was snapper.
I've enjoyed the diving here and it has been good for my leg, but I'm ready to move on. Goodnight. KL tomorrow.

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