Sunday, 18 May 2008

This is the life.

3/5 - Breakfast on the beach, then a stroll along it to see what is what. There are some nice places along here, but I think I have the best deal by far. Some massage ladies came over and they were so amazed at my body, they started touching me up, well feeling my shoulders and patting belly. I don't think it was the muscle tone that impressed them. They are lovely and friendly and have beautiful smiley eyes. I stopped swooning and carried on to the end of the beach. I knew it was the end because of the big barbed wire fence. The last place on the beach is th poshest and probably has the worst spot, if nearest the town. I stopped for a coffee in their cafe on the beach. I queried the bill at 27,000 dong, 80p. It is usually about 6,000 for a coffee, the service charge was as much as the usual price. Guess where I wont be going again. There is no obvious path from the beach to the road to town, so I wandered through the hotel. It is very posh and has all the amenities, but a bit too posh for me and too costly probably. It has been raining all morning, but light enough to walk in. There's something nice about walking in warm rain. The town is almost completely geared up for tourists. I came in to book some diving, but there is a notice on the shop door saying it is out of season. It looks like I blew that one. There are a couple of other dive shops in town that are still open, but Rainbow divers has a good reputation, so I'll play it safe. The sign outside one of the shops says visiblity is 6 metres, so it would be hard work possibly. The internet shop was next door, so I popped in. It was like kindergarden, screaming kids running around bashing keyboards. They only bashed mine once, then the Grandad look took over, no more hassle. I was glad to get out of there away from the noise. They are gaming mad here and shout at each other as they go along.
Ad-hoc motos stop to offer their services, but they are opportunists, they don't carry a 2nd helmet.
I stopped off to phone the kids, with perfect timing, as the heavens opened and it stopped when I left. Some school kids joined me on the walk back, practicing their English and no doubt taking the mickey in Vietnamese. They are very polite and have a good laugh, which is generally the way over here.
I ducked through another hotel to get back to the beach, also a very nice place. The beach is smashing and I got a dab on walking in the drizzle, so I dumped my gear and took a dip. There's hardly a soul on the beach, it's very tranquil here, apart from the sea. After my bit of exercise I had an excuse for a beer, not that one is needed, I'm on holiday STILL. I even had a curry too. It is similar to Cambodian curry, very coconutty and very nice. A German lass left a few minutes ago and then reappeared, fretting over a bunch of dogs on the beach, so I did my Sir Galahad bit and offered to walk her back. Another character for my pscytzophrenia portfolio. (I'm going to have to learn how to spell.) She was afraid of the dark too, so being Mr Efficient, another character, I took out my torch, if I'd been Mr Clever-Efficient, I'd have offered to walk her back to her place, which is set back from the beach, hence the need for the torch, but I couldn't chat a lass up in a brothel, so I handed over my torch. She is trustworthy, I'll get it back. I stood on something on the way back and got stung, that'll teach me to be so clever. It was a good excuse to have a painkiller in the bar before heading for the hammock and a read before crashing out.

Saturday, 17 May 2008

A bit of beach bum practice.

2/5 - On the moto and off to the boat for Phu Quoc with Coung. It leaves from a fishing village, Ho Bong and is a big old rust bucket, but for $6 it's good. The roof from the steering cabin had to be removed, so the boat would fit under a bridge on the way out to sea. It was crowbared back into place afterwards. I cant help but love S.E. Asia, it makes things fit as it rolls along. This is the river that was packed with fishing boats yesterday and it is no different today. It's like ship dodgems manouvering out of the estuary. The boat is a big old thing and there are only about 20 of us on it. There was a bag left on one seat, it wasn't ticking, it was clucking and then about 5 minutes later it was crowing. The owner took him out for some fresh air about half way and what a fine feather of a cockerel he is. The owner must have bought him for breeding, his back claws have been cut, so he's a lover not a fighter, just like me. If only...........
I was doing a bit of writing later on and he cockerel owner came over to check it out. He picked out a few words like Phu Quoc and Vietnam, but that was it. I like the open curiosity of the Vietnamese, there's no standing off like most Brits.
A big old lad came over for a quick natter and asked to have his photo taken with me. That is a first since Malaysia. Half the people were asleep before we left the harbour and most of the rest not long after. I confess to a power nap too, layed back on my rucksack. The captain had one too, in a hammock slung across the wheel deck. One of the other lads was steering with his feet, his not the captains. The trip was about 3 and a half hours and a nice easy one. Coung had recommended a quiet beach, but when I arrived I went for some noodles and a coffee to ponder again. I went for the more busy place with more amenities. The place I chose is pretty good too. The bungalow is a bit basic, but 50 metres from the beach. The nearest town is Duong Dong (Juom Jom), but I am not off there today. The beach is narrow in most places, but miles long and the sea and sand are smashing. I went for a dip and a beer and can feel complete relaxation taking over already. I even stayed in the resort for tea and a few beers. Not much chance of a starlit sky tonigh, to much light and too many clouds, so an early night for a read in the hammock.

Wednesday, 14 May 2008

Labour Day.

1/5 - Labour Day here and everywhere and so the second holiday on the bounce.

I am off out with Coung on his moto. I am getting a definite itch to try one. It was a fair old hike to our first stop, but interesting along the way, lots of shrimp farms. It is big around here, ponds everywhere and loads of villagers have them spread out on the road side or pavement to dry out, before cooking or selling on. Good fodder for the grumpy old man and the hygene laws of the nanny state. They are popular when having a beer, but used in all sorts. Coung tells me shrimp fried rice is delicious, I've added it to the list. We passed over the river bridge in Ba Hong. It was a traffic jam of boats on the river with shrimp and fish everywhere. It's amazing there are any left in the sea, these are just small boats too.

Our first stop is a set of caves the VC used to hide in when fighting the French and Americans. They open out into an inner circle, open to the skies. There are bullet marks everywhere and fallen boulders blocking some of the entrances, fallen from some of the heavy American bombing, but the VC carried on regardless, though there are some graves and shrines scattered around inside and outside. Starvation and lack of clean water killed a lot of VC too. They were a clever lot to out do the power and mass of America with not a lot of heavy weaponary.

We moved into the deeper part of the caves on a dodgy path laid in the water and the power went off, the path became instantly dodgier. It took longer to get back. Coung wasn't keen to take me when the power was on, so he paniced a bit now, but he saved the day with his mobile light. There is a fair old complex down here and I've only seen a bit of it. There's a floating cafe too. There are areas that were hospital areas and cooking areas, not a temporary setup. The hospital area had a few memorial stones, one of a nurse killed in 1945 when fighting the French, she is a heroine around here. We headed out passed the floating cafe and there was a group of people having their picnic on a pontoon. They shouted me over for a glass of rice wine and when they saw I was coming over, topped it up. Mugged again. They offered me a huge mussel, but I declined, now if it had been a muscle....... The lad put the muscle down and offered me a chicken foot, the most expensive part of the bird. I have tried them before and it was a mistake then, so I declined this one. The rice wine was rougher than the one Dung gave me, but it went down, warming me as it did so. This grotto, especially the inner opening is beautiful and must have been more so before the bombing. There are a few bomb craters scattered around outside, now used as ponds, very little gets wasted in Vietnam.

The Vietnames are doing their best to ruin the landscape now by tearing down the grottos and knolls to make cement.

We had a quick iced brew and were off to Chua Hang grotto. There's a temple built into the rocks here, Hoi Son Tu, Sea mountain temple. The way out at the back leads to a nice beach and lots of people on holiday enjoying the seaside and food. There are 2 small islands here, Hon Phu Tu, father and son islands. How they are said to have formed in legend is a long story, but the father one was twice as big as the son, but a typhoon the other year put paid to that and now the son is bigger. A message for us Dads perhaps. The temple was good, but I felt a bit out of place with a lot of the local tourists praying and lighting handfuls of incense. I walked back along the beach and through the market. It is just like a resort back home, lots of old tat for sale, but some good stuff too and some nice fruit. Back on the moto and off to Duong beach for some shrimp in batter, also surprisingluy some rice and more surprisingly, a beer. Cuong tells me this is rest time and offers me the free hammock before jumping into it and crashing, now they are all full. I sat on the beach, it is pretty nice and quiet too. After a while I couldn't resist anymore, so donned my trunks and went for a dip. The sand only goes out about 20 metres and then the silt from the Mekong takes over. It didn't feel so good, squidging between your toes and didn't look good either, but the water was clear.........ish. You can't see the bottom, but it is not manky. I get funny looks when I have my clothes on, but you should see the stares when I'm in my trunks, but they are mostly accompanied by a smile. On the way back to the table, I got pulled over by another table and offered beer, how could I refuse, but I only had a swig. I must look like a charity case in need of help, except to the touts. Coung had picked up 2 women when I got back, but he didn't look too impressed and was glad of the respite I brought. One was non-stop talk, but they eventually moved on and so did we. By the way, the shrimp had too much batter on.

We went to another temple, this one up some steps. I may not look the best going up, but some of the people were in a right state. I get there, just not prettily. I couldn't have done it without the bannisters though. This temple is pretty neat too. It is hacked out of a bute and has a outlook at the back that overlooks Cambodia. There is a shrine at the entrance for 130 people murdered by the Khmer Rouge, they were not the best people to walk the earth. The Cambodians consider the Mekong Delta as Cambodian and there are Khmer temples scattered all over the place, but it is Vietnamese hands for now. Back down to Coung and back into town. I have arranged to go to Phu Quoc. It is an island off the coast and he will drop me at the boat tomorrow, so on the move again. I could have stayed here longer, but have itchy feet again. A quick shower and into town for a fish tea, no chips and a couple of beers. I went over to see the rowdy lads at the Gio Cafe again, tonight they were over-rowdy, so I kept moving chairs for a bit of quiet, but the rowdy ones followed me. The rowdy ones tried to get me to foot the bill, but I told them to F.... Off. Thank goodness they didn't understand. The landlady tried it on too, taking for all the drinks when I paid, but one of the quieter ones gave her and the rowdy lads a right mouthful. From the number of times Vietnam was mentioned I think it was along the lines of "What do you want this man to think of Vietnam and the Vietnamese." I have had a good time with these lads and the waitresses, they accepted me as one of the bunch, but it is time to move on tomorrow, with another good memory.

Where am I now???? Still the same place.

30/4 - Had a bit of a wander looking for a bike, but gave up and went for some breakfast. I thought it was about time I tried the S.E. Asia breakfast, so ordered some noodles and fried veg and you know what? I should have tried it earlier.
I moved out looking again and got touted for a motorbike outing tomorrow. It wasn't heavy pressure and I think I'll call the lad and set it up later. He warned me off the high pressure tout of yesterday, that could have been beating up the competition I suppose. This lad, Coung, pronounced Cuun, speaks good English too. He also directed me to a bike hire place, so now I have a very small lady shopper to bruise my knees on, no gears and a wobbly pedal too, this should be an adventure. Not just yet though, I walked across the road, parked it and went in the floating cafe for a coffee. I left the bike, without a lock, when I asked for one the lady told me "This is Vietnam, you don't need one." I bet I lose the bugger now.
The iced coffee in Vietnam is great, if I have said that before, it is only because it is great and comes with a free pot of tea, usually. I bought a cake last night, because I was getting withdrawl symptoms, so I got stuck into that. The grumpy old man whispered in my ear "They wouldn't allow you to eat your own stuff in our bloody country."
Ha Tien seems to be a relaxed place, although today is Liberation day from the Yanks, so the flags are out and the place has a buzz about it.
I got on the road to have a butchers around. There are lots of backstreets with shops tucked away down them. The riverside is a smashing place to stroll, like I said Ha Tien is a nice place. I bought a hat for Paige's birthday, a big spender me. It cost so much the postage was more. It should be though, the amount of work that went into posting it. I had to fill out 5 forms, the lady wrapped it for me, which is always a bonus. She did it while doing all the other jobs in the place too.
I went down the market area. Market areas in Vietnam are always interesting and busy, I like to wander through them. A police or army wagon came hurtling through with its siren whaling. It can't happen very often, because everyone stopped watching me and looked at it. I trundled on a bit, my knees getting bluer on the handlebars, then I got my big toe stuck in the front wheel. Difficult to do??? Nah, a piece of cake for me. I will have somemore skinned marks on my tan now. The only thing that got hurt was my pride. People have been laughing at my knees hitting the handlebars all day, now they are rolling in the street. Oh no, that was me. I did feel a fool.
I called it a day for now and went for a shower to get the grit out of my knee and lay on my pit and nodded off. I must be getting old. I know better, I was just tired. After the power nap, I was back out on the street, upright this time. The town is buzzing even more now. Stalls have been setup along the river, mostly aimed at the female contingent, clothes and jewellry. I took the bike back, before I did myself anymore damage and went for some tasty food. I use the chopsticks usually. It seems to give people a laugh. One lady was motioning at me to eat, so she could watch and have a chuckle, we had a bit of a laugh. I am turning into a circus act. I moved on for a coffee with the rowdy lads. There were only a few there, so it was more relaxed, a nice evening watching the world go by on bikes and motorbikes. I do love this life.

Sunday, 11 May 2008

Hard to believe, but I'm on the move again. Ha Tien or Rach Gia today

29/4 - Just to let you know, I can read your comments when I am in Ho Chi Minh city, but seeing as I'm in DaLat, not a lot of good, but I was up to date when I left a few days ago.
Also to let you know, I am going on a 5 day motorbike trip from tomorrow, don't worry, I'm pillion.
I am going to Hoi An through the Central Higlands of South Vietnam. It should be an adventure. I'll let you know, if I ever get that far in the blog. So today is the last installment for perhaps a week. Don't panic due to lack of posting. If you really miss me, you can always text me, but I have a Vietnamese SIM in most of the time, so don't expect a quick answer.

And so to the blog.
Packed again, but it is too nice to leave my box on the Mekong, so I pulled a chair outside and sat on the walkway to wave and shout to passing boats. No mooning, I'm passed that now. I got some great smiles from the boats as they went close by, big and small.
Dung came along to say goodbye, she is off into town on works business. She is a smashing lass, I will miss her. I dumped my bags at reception and paid up then nipped along to see the effervescent Diep. She was bubbling over. She gave me a great cuddle then grabbed my arm and wandered along with me, back to reception. I said goodbye and went to grab my bags, she followed me and grabbed one. I'll miss this one too. She came along to the gate with me, where the moto was waiting, telling everyone we passed, that she hadn't already told, she is my daughter. Another cuddle, a peck on the cheek, a peck on the cheek and I'm off to another town. Which one is still undecided, but I'm getting a bus to Rach Gia, I'll decide on the way there. The first guest house in Vinh Long, that I stayed at told me they could get me a ticket and drop me at the highway, the buses don't come into town anymore. You go to the highway and flag them down as they pass. The lass in reception says they come every 15 minutes, so her brother ran me out on the moto. I got to cross the Mekong bridge, a construction everyone seems very proud of. Some people had pulled their motos over to the side of the highway, at the top of the bridge and were stood gazing down the river. I wonder what the grumpy old man would say about that?
The lass in reception was right, the buses pass every 15 minutes if not more frequently. The buggers don't stop though. We stood about an hour and eventually one pulled over, with a bonus, the aircon worked. Time passed quickly, I am an expert waiter now. This was more like hitch hiking, than catching a bus. It brought back memories of my youth, stood by the side of the road, ever hopeful. The minibus wasn't too packed. We stopped to pick up another lass and she brought a durian on. It must have been open because we went about 100 metres and the driver pulled over and threw it in the back, with my rucksack. The bloody stuff stinks to high heaven. There was an old fellow on the bus with a torn off piece of cardboard, hung around his neck with some twine. I haven't a clue what it said, but he looked like a war refugee. He was all there though. I had bought some coconut pastries for the trip, they are only small, so I tried one. I offered some to the old fellow. I knew I'd done it wrong. He was happy to take the bag, eat a few and put the rest in his pocket for later. I enjoyed mine.
We eventually pulled over at some services, a lot more swish than spiderville in Cambodia. I drew some serious stares and some lovely smiles. My height seemed to be the object of amusement. One woman came over laughing her head off, as she measured the top of her head to my elbow. The Vietnamese are not particularly small and sometimes not that slim. The Chinese influence I suppose.
We moved on fed and watered to another ferry crossing where some volunteers get out and go over on foot. It must be some kind of dodge. I'd seen it before, so thought it would be an experience and volunteered. It worked differently on this ferry. I was stood around doing my Gil the ambassador abroad bit and the co-pilot came over and grabbed my elbow to lead me onto the bus before we docked. Live and learn.
Into Rach Gia and there was only 1 tout waiting, so why did he pick on me?? My height I guess. He wasn't a bad lad. He did try to get me to take a moto instead of the long walk to the bus station, until I pointed out to him on the map that it is 200 metres away. I hadn't decided whether to stay here or move onto Ha Tien, a few hours on another bus. The minibus had dropped us outside a cafe, so I took advantage and sat for an iced coffee and a tea, the tea is free. I sat and contemplated a decision, I decided a cake would be nice, but none were available, so I finished sipping and moved on to catch the bus. The cafe owner told me there were no more buses until the morning, but being a cynical young man, I didn't believe him. I was right. I walked the 200 metres and didn't even need a ticket, there's a conductress. I went to put my rucksack in the hold and a lad took it off me and threw it through the window. It was open. The rucksack got put behind the back seat. I used my head and took the middle seat at the back with loads of leg room. Not so clever. This is a local bus. The conductress is very efficient and looks like she is possibly a part time wrestler, so nobody argues with her. She is authorative with a smile, a 100% character. Anyway, my leg room disappeared mostly. All the floor is filled with boxes or stools to sit on. It is all very orderly, not like the cram them on job in India. Still there must have been 50 people, all seated on a 35 seater bus. The wrestler recognised the length of my legs and left me a bit of foot room between the boxes. It is all very friendly, people helping each other and smiling. Leaning on each other and nodding off. An old fella sat next to me, scrunched his legs up on the seat and then sat a young 'un on his knee. I felt like a right old croc. 2 young lasses who were sat next to me, got off, so we moved along a bit and the old fella just leaned on my leg. It made me feel like one of the family.
We rolled into Ha Tien in the dark and the same procedure as usual, someone comes on and grabs your bag, takes it to his moto and tells you where he is taking you. Once we got things straightened out, we headed for my choice. I was told it was closed, but it wasn't. It should have been, the steps were huge and the lift out of order, they asked for too much, then halved it when I started to walk. This is the first time I've had the hugely overcharging experience in Vietnam. A lad had latched onto the moto and followed me to the hotel room and was nagging and nagging and nagging for business, he eventually got the picture and left me alone.
I wandered to find some food, but there was not a lot open, so I picked on a street stall and had something that sounded like paxo salt, but I'm fairly sure it was Saxo who made it, so it wasn't. It was smashing though, noodles, bean sprouts, nuts, fried egg and spicey sauce, probably a few unknowns too, but as long as I don't know about them..................
A bit more wandering to get my bearings. There are loads of billiard places. No wonder Trung and Lim gave me a beating. Some young lads beckoned me over to sit with them on the street outside a cafe. We didn't understand each other, but got along famously with the help of the LP. It was a canny night, they were good fun. I spotted the leader, so made friends with him. It came in handy when one of the other lads tried to get me to foot the bill. The leader fired him off. He then bought mine for me. We could have been good mates. They were a rowdy lot, in there 20's, but a good laugh. The 2 young lasses serving on got some stick, but when they said "Closed", all the lads scattered, the girls were in charge.
Home, read and bed, pretty much in that order.

Friday, 9 May 2008

7.00 breakfast again

28/4 - Packed and over to the riverside cafe for another 7.00 am Trung meeting. Phuc was there too, still said the same as you thought. A little later a young lady and her sister showed up and sat at a table nearby. They rent a shop from Trung, he lives upstairs. They got badgered into joining us. The lass who rents it is a beautician. She looked at me and just sighed. I think the sigh said, beyond help. She was determined to teach me some Vietnamese, which was very nice. I can now say "I love you glass." in Vietnamese. I have forgotten the rest. Her sister just kept scowling at me, but between the 2 of them, they livened up the morning. Trung and Phuc can sit and doss for Vietnam, so I disappeared for a while to pay some bills on the internet, that my secretary daughter had informed me of. When I got back Phuc and the ladies were gone, but Lin was there from Vinh Sang, not a good swap. I am staying at Vinh Sang tonight, the night I was cornered into a night or so ago. It is on the island An Binh, so I picked up my bags and we left for the ferry. Trung is not so confident on his moto, but we got there in the end. I was not sure about coming over here. I thought they would leave me to have a bit of free time, but not so, Trung and Lin escorted me everywhere, which is good, but the conversation is not very fluent and can get hard work, but they are showing me around, so a bit of English help is a fair swap. Being unsure was soon wiped away anyway. There was a couple of hundred metres to walk with my bag, Trung took the small one, so I had a real dab on when we made it. Diep, my unofficial, adopted, daughter came running up to me and gave me a big hug, sweat and all, she tried to rip the rucksack off my back to carry it for me and when I wouldnt let her, she started wafting me with her nun la, (I think) Vietnamese coned hat, when I dumped my pack she was pulling my T-shirt away from my back and wafting me. She is a lovely character. Dung came over to say hello too. She is a stunner. Diep had to disappear, but Dung sat with us for some fried noodles and veg and took pity on me filling up my bowl when she spotted it was empty. Yet another slight on my chopstick skills, or she is just polite, or probably both. I got checked into my room. A wooden box on stilts over the Mekong and very nice too. Lin seems to be running the show and suggests we go for a swim. Trung had spotted my fins and was dying to try them out. Lin helped himself to my coconut toffees and started throwing them down his neck. I told him to leave them on my bed, so was a bit miffed when he produced them from his pocket later and finished them off. The swim was in the Mekong. I have been dying to go in. It is a bit murky and like a warm bath. It was a good do. I am not getting enough exercise on this trip, so the more the better. Luckily enough I am not getting too much beer either. Mind you I could meet up with our Beccy in Australia. We were sat drying off and Lin is hustling us to go and get changed to go for karaoke in the bar/restaurant. I was getting a bit hacked off with being driven along, so dragged my heels a bit. When we got back to the room, he was hustling us to get dressed, so I dragged my heels a bit and sat watching the Mekong, chilling. My sisters may be right, perhaps I am an awkward bugger. Trung made a brew too, now this is more like it. Hustle time arrived again, but now was changed from karaoke to billiards without pockets, French billiards. It must be a pasttime here, because these 2 gave me a right hiding. It's hustle time again and we are off for karaoke, so I dragged my heels and sipped my iced coffee. My sisters are right. Lin is becoming a real pain in the backside, but once he sat at the keyboards he's pretty good. There's not another soul in the place, but Trung is giving it rice on the karaoke, he is pretty good too. Dung came over and they sang some duets. She's a singing stunner and she got even better when she took us for some rice wine, free rice wine. Can it get any better. It is very nice. I think this is what the rowdy old fellas were feeding me the other day, but watered down. This stuff is spirit, not wine, it gives that warm glow as it travels down your throat. It is brewed here in the bar. The still is at the back. Apparently, like all good things, it comes in different qualities. This was good stuff. Lin had to go to work elsewhere, what a shame. Dung is trying to learn English, so she brought her book over and we had a bit of a lesson. I can't help getting the feeling I am not the best person to teach English. Diep has been busy all day, so far, but keeps popping over and introducing me to her mates as her Dad. It always gets a laugh, perhaps because she is Vietnamese and 4 foot nothing and I am 6 foot 2 and white. Before I knew it mealtime was back. I let Trung do the ordering and I ordered a beer. His English is coming on a bit, but I get respite during the food. He can chuck it down his neck. The food was a do-it-yourself seafood hotpot, lau ca, I think. It was smashing again. When we were done, the lass who had been waiting on, Xuan, I don't have a clue how to say it, came over and sat with us. The staff here are really friendly and casual, except for Diep, she is friendly and bubbly. Trung has to translate, Xuan is divorced and looking for a husband as far as I can tell. Her 5 year old son is living with his Dad, because he is rich and Xuan works all month getting 2 days off only, to go and see her son. Something stinks and it is not me. Lots of fodder here for the grumpy old man. She is very nice, but I didn't volunteer to be hubby 2. I am not sure if she is sizing up Trung. Dung turned up after work, to make divorcee number 4. It is like Blind Date. We had a natter, with Trung translating still, now he is flagging. I think the translation is less than 50% good, but a damn site better than I can do. We called it a night as he was flagging and had to moto home, the electric had gone again too. He never seems to work, so that wasn't a problem. He was telling me that Dung supports her parents and brother. The country seems in good state, but perhaps it is not. He told me that inflation is very high and the price of rice has gone up again this week. Bloody politicians are useless.
Trung came back to my room to pick up some gear and tried to arrange a 7.00 pick up for coffee, but managed to get out of that one, it was a close call. It's been a smashing night and still is, so I dragged my chair out onto the walkway around my box and contemplated the Mekong and read a bit. Some lads had setup some rods dangling over the edge, through the weeds after catfish. It is loved around here. One of the lads appeared and spoke great English with a French accent. He is Vietnamese and lives in Quebec. He comes back to Vietnam to miss the Canadian winters, what a good life. He suddenly scarpered, he had a bite on a rod on the other walkway. There was a right rucus and some running around, so I went over in the dark to see 3 of them land a catfish about 12 - 15 lbs. I don't think they are regular fishermen, one of them ended up in the Mekong amongst the weeds. I called it quits and went to bed leaving these 3 excited like little school boys. I heard a rucus in the night. When I met the lad in the morning, they had caught a bigger catfish later on. He was still excited in the morning. He had photos to show his family.

Back on the Mekong, I love it.

27/4 - Another early start. I'm off on a boat trip at 7.00. Trung tried to get me to meet him for coffee at 6.00, but I managed to side step that one, I used diplomacy and said NO!!!
I expected the boat trip would be full of tourists. Lam picked me up at the hotel spot on time and we walked along the riverfront and jumped in his boat, just me and him, pretty exclusive. It could do with a lick of paint, but it is just the job. We set off across the Mekong river, heading for Cai Be floating market. This delta is a huge set of huge rivers. I love cruising on the Mekong, it is very relaxing and there's plenty of traffic of all sorts of boats and lots of action going on, so there is plenty to keep me amused as I chill on my seat. We passed loads of big boats stacked high with rice husks that are used for burning. Each boat has its own crew of 4 or 5 and big wicker baskets that they use to load and unload the husks manually. I've seen the lads in action, they earn their corn. On every one of these boats there was 1 lad steering and the rest were fast on in hammocks suspended at the back of the boat. They can sleep at the drop of a hat around here. We passed several villages where retailers, wholesalers and workshops opened out onto the river for ease of loading. It seems like it would be a good way to live, by boat, more relaxed than the car mayhem in the UK, perhaps we should flood the country, perhaps we wont have to with Mr Global Warming having a say. Is that the Grumpy old man chipping in again?
Lam pulled over at a petrol station for a few litres. He was telling me that his boat was kitted out as a home and 7 of them sailed around the Mekong Delta for 2 years, working as they went. It had to be cleared with the police before they could set off and an itinerary given, although I can't see it being very exact for 2 years, or perhaps it is only me that can't stick to a plan. He said he had a bit of problem with some locals shopping him to the police, because they thought he was illegal and some asking for money or they would shop him, but when he threatened to go to the police, they backed off. He was saying he had a few police searches on the way. There is a lot of smuggling goes on around the Delta, especially to Cambodia, from what I hear. I think I could handle cruising around the Delta working along the way. I wonder if they have wifi on the delta, so I can dial in.
It took about an hour to get to the floating market, but it flew by. At the market, there are big boats full of produce. 1 boat may be full of 1 product, like pineapples or 2 or 3 products. They are mostly fruit and veg. The big boats sell onto smaller boats, or other big boats. The suppliers are generally farmers who have sailed into market. One boat was off-loading pineapples in a production line of lads, throwing them 2 at a time. I bet that owner was a happy farmer. There was a young lass loading up sacks and weighing them, with what looked like dirty potatoes. Each boat seems to be a family or couples business. A lot of the customers are women, or groups of women in boats. We passed a few boats with a group of women having a good natter on the way to the market, as one steered the boat. It is a big produce market and quite impressive, in fact very impressive, to me. There is a cathedral overlooking matters from the shore, so no dodgy dealing please. We did a circuit of the market, down both sides. It is village life on water and very pleasing to see.
We headed across the river, still the Mekong I think, there are so many big rivers and we stopped at a coconut candy making place. Coconut toffees to us Brits. 3 women are making them from scratch and wrapping each one by hand, so Lam showed me the process. I had to buy some, the samples were lovely. We had a brew, local tea, which is also lovely and a few more samples.
We carried on crossing through an island on small tree lined rivers, very picturesque, this is a smashing place and I didn't remember the name. Along the way there are several boats full of mud, with blokes hoying it onto the banks to build them up against flooding. No wonder the blokes around the Vietnam countryside are mostly well toned, they put in some work. Perhaps I should volunteer for a few days work, except I'd get the sack. These rivers are really lovely. I spotted a couple of types of kingfishers along the banks, similar to back home and just as beautiful. Some farmers passed us going to market with boat loads of rambutan, a spikey fruit that tastes almost as good as it looks. Next stop was a bonsai garden, I guess we are on the tourist route. I had a wander around, while Lam hit the hammock. I checked out the fruit trees as much as the bonsai trees, there's all sorts around here. I went to join Lam and a plate of fruit was dished up with more very nice tea. This is the life. The grapefruit are huge and left a week to get rid of the bitter taste, a shame as I like it. The mangoes are juicy and tasty and there is another fruit whose name I forget, that is very sour. These are the ones Jack the lad gave me in Chau Doc, but are a different colour, so I was duped. I skipped the bananas and we sailed off again. We were headed for a nursery garden, which I was not sure about, but Lam's mate phoned and Lam came along and said he had an idea. Instead of the nursery garden, we could go to see his friend, about 20 minutes away and have some rice wine, he is having a party after coming home for a few days. It sounded like a good idea to me. It was, but there was one problem, when we got there, we went to the wrong friend. Same name, different bloke. The second one lived about an hour away, so we gave it a miss and headed back to Vinh Long. I got some extra time on the Mekong, which was good. We were going to do a bit of catfish fishing, but I think that idea timed out. Lam saw me looking at the nets he had on the boat, that's where that idea came from. I have had a good day, a smashing experience. I'm easily pleased, despite what you lot say.
When we got back to town, the electricity was off, so that knocked the e-fix on the head. I wandered aimlessly. Surprised??? Me neither. Picked up a baguette from a street corner lady, not one of those street corner ladies, a one selling baguettes. It had all sorts on it. I found a bench in a pagoda grounds and got stuck in. A couple of kids wandered over, closely followed by their Mams and a couple more kids. The Mams were getting their chops around some tea in the pagoda garden when I strolled in like John Wayne with a wiggle. The Mams didn't speak English, but still managed to get across the message "What's wrong with your legs?" but it is hard to gesticulate muscular dystrophy. I keep trying and everyone keeps nodding, but somehow I think the message is not getting across. Without any English, one of the Mams also managed to ask for some money for each of her 3 kids, but I didn't go for it and handed out my packet of biscuits instead. The kids seemed happy. I don't think I'll ever get to finish a packet of biscuits.
A clothes and jewellry street market setup whilst I was sitting and chewing the fat, in both senses of the words, so I took a wander through. It was pretty good and I bought a couple of hair clips for Diep and Dung when we go to see them tomorrow, then wandered back to the river. It is like a Gil magnet. There are street vendors everywhere, especially in the evenings. I bought some fried snacks from one, if you want to know what they were, you will have to ask her. They were tasty though and she laughed when I nodded everytime she pointed to something to put on them.
The power came back, so I thought I'd hit the internet. Shows how much I know. The first one was closing at 21:15 and the second has a little old lady, who everytime she sees me just shouts NO NO NO. It's the second time I've tried with the same reaction, first time it was full. She needs to learn some manners, she has got the grumpy old lady thing all wrong. I gave up with the internet plan and went back to my balcony with a can of beer to listen to the karaoke and read. A better plan by far.