Into the holy Varanasi.

22/2 - We got in 5 hours late at the more hospitable time of 8:40. The train was too long for the platform, so I clambered down, pack and all, what a hero and headed off to look for transport. A tout grabbed me, Rs50. Seemed fair to me. Then a German lad, David, befriended me. Now this was an experience. He told me to forget the Rs50, come on lets barter. He loves it, but it wore me out just watching him. We got a taxi rickshaw, holds about 10 people/sardines. It was for Rs10 until we got out at the bridge over the Ganges, then there was a bit of a caffufle. I threw in an extra 10 and all was OK. It does not seem worth it to me, it is 13p or so, but everyone is different.
This bridge is big, because the Ganges is huge, although the ghats (steps by the water) are a bit quiet, probably the wrong time of day. We wandered down the steps towards the river and here we go again. David wants a couple of rickshaws. He got one for me for Rs10, then couldn't get another because the lads were passing it down the line not to give him one, I think his hard bargaining pee'd them off. He set off walking and eventually got one for Rs10, so we are off and get lost, so it cost us Rs 20 anyway. David was a bit miffed.
We set off walking to a guest house. Varanasi is steps upon big steps, by the time we got to the Guest House, Shanti, I was well and truely knackered. I sent David on ahead to start his bargaining. He is a good lad, good company and likes to talk. I made the hotel and eventually David reappears from upstairs. Rs150 he tells me, but he is not sure. 2 quid, I am not budging, but David goes off to check out others and a better deal. It's 2 quid. This is a real backpackers place, probably the first real one I have stayed in, as it is heaving with backpackers.
I went to checkin. "Rs300" he tells me.
"I was told Rs150"
"OK". Why do they do that?
The stairs are bloody hard work and I'm on the 5th floor and when I get to the room it is still occupied. Back down I trod. It will be ready in an hour, so I trogged back up to the 6th floor where there is a restaurant, for some breakfast. The view over the rooftops to the Ganges is fantastic. Chill time until the room is ready and to be fair to the lad, he offered to carry my pack up when I went for it. It was not too bad getting it upstairs with the walking stick, but I am encouraged to throw somemore gear.
Shower and out to get my train ticket for a couple of days ahead. I took a cycle rickshaw. The bloke said Rs20. I thought cheap. We went about 300m and he stopped and pointed down an alley. I think not.
I tried to explain, no chance. At which point another bloke turns up and they want 50 to take me in the opposite direction. Sod this, I'm off. At which point the price comes down. Too late squire!
Took an autorickshaw and got my ticket painlessly and an autorickshaw back, who drops me short, so I paid him short. It must be a local custom to drop people off short. The day has been a challenge so far, so time for a chilling stroll.
One thing David has taught me is I've probably paid at least double for most things. I don't know if I have the where with all (can be arsed) to barter and look as he does, but take note you future backpackers.
I went into the backstreets/alleys of Varanasi and it is a maze and amazing. They are only 2 persons width at points. Full of cows, dogs, monkey, cowshit, dogshit and monkeyshit. There are openings in the walls about half the size of a door that are shops, tailors, workshops, all pretty neat. I don't have a clue where I went, but eventually dropped out onto a main drag. Believe it or not, next to a cake shop, so I needed an energy boost and had one, then wandered down to Dasaswanedh Ghat, or something close, this is where there is a daily dance or ceremony to the river godess. It kicks off and lasts quite a while. The music and lights are regularly interupted by short power failures, but not the dancers. To be honest, it is not that spectacular, to me. The floating tee lights on the Ganges are probably more so, especially when the streetlights fail.
Decided to leave it and wander along the top of the ghats in the direction of the guest house, I hope. It's pitch black and mostly peaceful with some other ceremony/dances going on, apart from the odd tout that is. The place lit up when I reached Manikarika ghat with funeral pyres. The touts lit up too and were determined to get me to go and watch one, but I resisted. Not my cup of tea. The streets around this ghat are full with piles of wood and large scales. The amount of wood to fully cremate the body has to be calculated and weighed and different wood has different prices, sandalwood being the most expensive. A bloke approached me and his first line was "I'm not after money" A bit of a giveaway. He was.
I eventually made it back to Shanti and up to the rooftop restaurant, thanks to the walking stick.
The food was average, but the company outstanding. The place was buzzing. I thought I'd have a quiet hour reading my book. I never opened my bag.
I picked an empty space at the end of a long table and 2 American lasses, Shamool and Myre, got talking to me. They are American Jews from Boston and New York, currently studying in Israel and they have great gangster accents. Their buddy Michael from California joins us. What 3 great people, good stories, good company. The 2 lasses are playing backgammon while talking, then I get challenged. I wont say who won. Their next stop is Nepal. I'm jealous.
Michael is currently working in China. The world is becoming a small neighbourhood.
I'm knackered now, so left them smoking a joint and hit the sack.
Another great day in India.