Mumbai to Ratnigiri to Ganpatipule

Up at 5.00 am. I am hopless if I have to be somewhere, I cannot sleep, unlike the cabby I caught, he was sock on in the back of his cab when I walked onto the street.
It was a different Mumbai at 5.30 in the morning to 5.30 at night, the drive was easy.
So was the walk to the train, a porter took my gear, Rs100 about 1 pound 30p. It was worth it, the walk from the taxi rank to the train must have been quarter of a mile. I was saving my legs for later, just in case.
My reserved seat was with 3 English lasses, Dee (my Mam's name), Emma and Margaret. They had just been train hopping around parts of India for a few days, buying loads of things, unusual for women. They were of back to Goa, where they have a flat for 5 and a half months. Margaret has been doing it for years, getting a flat and having a long stay. This was the first real chat I'd had with any Brits. I was surprised how much I had missed it.
The food and drink kept on coming as we travelled on, it is constant, cheap and tasty, unlike British railway companies. I was told the food is not always as available as today. The seats may not be as posh, but the overall package is spot on.
The beggars come on the train, all variations. A lad giving the floor a quick look and then asking for money and a lovely well dressed lady, who the lasses told me was a bloke.
It is interesting travelling along checking out the landscape etc. It was not so pretty rolling out of Victoria Terminal in Mumbai, the locals from the shanty towns next to the station were coming down to the lines to do their morning ablutions.
The toilets on the train are not too bad either, so long as you remember this is India.
We rolled into Ratnigiri 1 hour late, but this is another feature of Indian railway from what I can gather. Loaded up my gear and got a good sweat on making my way up the stairs to the exit. The English spoken is not so good out of the cities, but still good enough for this Indian ignorant Brit. I eventually got my ticket for when I come back to head for Goa. Everyone advises to book in advance and this proves to be true down the line.
Walked out the station and the rickshaws looked tempting. The bus station in Ratnigiri is 10km from the train station, but I decided to try and use public transport to keep the cost down. I must confess it is more interesting too. I heaved myself onto the bus and a young lad gave me his seat. "Just like the old days" said the Grumpy Old Man. I gave him the last of my chocolates, which he immediately handed over to his Mam, who I was now sat next to. He seemed chuffed at the chocolates, just as I was chuffed to get a seat. The buses get packed generally and empty and fill up along the way, but I like using them. Loaded myself up at the bus station and the conductor took my small bag and lead me to the bus stand where the Ganpatipule bus leaves from. He's a good bloke. Life definitely seems nicer out of the big city.
I almost got on the wrong bus, but was redirected. I went to the back with my gear to try and stay out of the way. BIG mistake, the road from about 10km out of Ganpatipule is not the best, the tarmac is not wide enough for the bus and the craters were deep. It was like being on a fairground ride and I was like a jack-in-the-box. It was not necessary either, this was one of the quieter buses, I could have been at the front.
It took about an hour and here we are in Ganpatipule. I stepped off the bus and was approached straight away to see if I needed a hotel, in a nice way. I guess I need not have worried about accomodation. You should see where I have booked, the Shiv Sagar Palace, it is unreal. Mind you I didn't have a booking, like I thought I had, but they weren't busy, it was like a ghost hotel. I only saw 2 couples in there. The place is a bit surreal, it must been hell of a place in its hayday, but now it needs some tender care and attention, it looks like it is trying to cling onto its existence. It is definitely worth staying at least one night though. I enjoyed all 3 of mine. The staff are fussy to the extreme considering the place is nearly empty. They cannot do enough. The food was good too. I had a cracking meal the first night, I wish I could remember the name, nice and spicey, the spiciest one yet. I bet constipation isn't in the Indian dictionary.
The view from my room is great, out over the sea, so I sat and watched the sun sink into the Arabian Sea.
Next morning I headed into town. I didn't know, but breakfast is not so good, as they don't have many supplies. I was informed by an English couple I met. Mind you the electricity goes off from 8-10 a.m. I have no idea why. It goes off at night too and the generator kicks in then. There were candles in the room and matches.
The hotel seems to get more people coming just to look than stay. Others come to sit on the veranda for a meal as the sun goes down.
After walking down the hill into the village, I sat on a wall for a break and something shit on me. I hope it was a bird, but the colour didn't look bird like to me, I guess this should be my lucky day, it's supposed to be lucky.
Whilst I was sat on the wall, loads of people stopped for a chat. The young 'uns, teenagers, love to chat, lots smile and the odd one frowns, but in general everyone is curious and welcoming.
I went to see the naturally formed image of Ganesh, the Indian deity with the elephant head. I was expecting a huge image, it is a slab of rock about 3 feet by 2 and bright orange, although that is not natural. It is well worshipped and this is the off season for it. The bright orange stone is housed in a Pink temple. This is a colourful country. I went into the courtyard and got talking to a lady in a lovely pink sari. She was not keen to have her photo taken though. At least I think she did not want it taken. I don't understand what the wiggle of the head means yet.
Dropped into a little cafe/restuarant for a midday snack. Didn't know what to have so asked Panesh, the owner what Mutter is. "Peas" OK, I'll go for that. It was smashing, not just peas, as are most things in India, not what you expect. I love the food. The mutter came with 3 chipatis and a glass of lassi for 60p. So time to hit the beach. THere are quite a few Indian tourists around and as usual a lot want to talk. I was chatting with about 10 lads at one point, all smiling and chipping in. The crowd grows and wanes out of curiosity I think. I wandered along for about half a mile and there was nobody there. After a bit of an explore I sat and nodded off. I covered myself up, as there is no shade on the beach, but still got bits frazzled. Into a rickshaw and back for another meal at the hotel and bed again. The hotel provided a black jasmine shampoo, so I went to work on the bird shit on my T-shirt, it is a white one. The black shampoo has now added some grey blotches:-( One of my favourites, my "The Red and White Stripes" one.
Another day dawns, a few hours before I got up, so back down the hill and I wandered down another road through a couple of villages to a bridge over a river. Loads of people greet me along the way. Kids go by in pristine school uniform. THat is a trait of India, the kids come out of all sorts of buildings and they all have smart school uniforms on.
I was watching the fish in the river, a couple of eagles soaring and some other birds, all feathered, when 2 blokes and a young lass come along a stream running into the river and start fishing with a net across the mouth of the stream. It is not long before they hand a fish out to the young lass.
They saw me watching so called me over. I wiggled down and we try to communicate, one of the blokes then asks me for Rs200. "Sorry mate, no" 100?, 50?, 10?, 5? It was in good banter. I'm sure he tried to sell me his daughter next. 2 more kids joined us and all the kids had some fun looking through my binos.
Wandered back to the beach and was lying reading my book, another bunch of lads came over. Alwan the leader in a bright blue shirt thought I looked lonely. We had a good laugh and he had his photo take with me. When he left, he touched my feet. I have not found out what that means yet. They were all here, 350 of them, on a company outing. I bet there will be a party down here tonight, they are staying in the resort by the beach and these ones were a lively bunch.
Wandered back to Pashars for tea tonight. I had rice plate, which was a bit ordinary, but the bhajis were delicious. I tried the Kokan sarbat, a local drink made from syrup and water. I think the water may have done my stomach a bit, I had some rumblings, but they passed. The sarabat was not good or bad, just unusual.
Ended up back at the hotel talking to an English couple over a brew whilst they gave me their opinions on the beaches in Goa, my next stop.
Up and packed. I have 3 goods days in Ganpatipule and the Shiv Sagar. I am really glad I came. If you are looking for the night life, I doubt this is the place, but if you are looking to chill and relax, this is definitely a good place for that, there is not a lot to do.
I left some bits and a small rucksack in my room, as I am carrying way too much gear and also left a few rupees. One of the lads came rushing out to the rickshaw with the lot. It is a good place this hotel. I hope it survives.
Got the bus back to Ratnigiri. A young lad, 21, sat next to me and asked if he could practice his English with me. "Are you sure, you wont be offended?" He was ever so polite. I probably did his English no good though. He is in college and plans to flit to South Africa when he is done. We had a good natter, cricket, football, the lot.
Getting on the bus to the train station is chaos. Everyone lurks on a platform and when a bus turns up it is every man for himself. 2 young lads made sure I got squeezed on and then another young 'un gave up his seat for the Grumpy old man.
When I arrived from Mumbai, I struggled up the steps, on my way to the platform I found there is a ramp, it goes at about 30 degrees, but makes life easier, which is just as well, because when I got to the platform, it was changed. I wished Mr Murphy would bugger off. It may be hard to believe, but the train was late, the food was good and I got sat with a lovely Indian family. They gave me the nod to get off 2 stations early, which saved me about an hour on the bus. It was all done in 1 word sentences too.
And here I am in Panjim/Panaji, Goa, for the next leg.
Later people, time to find some delicious Indian food.