Friday 7 March 2008

To the home of the Taj Mahal.




25/1 - And so onto the home of the Taj Mahal. The building most people want to see.
You may find it hard to believe, but I had a plan, you may find it easy to believe it went west when I stepped out of the station. I am happy with everything I got for my money.
I booked my ticket out for tomorrow, a bit negative???? or a bit of planning, OH NO. Then I walked out to see Agra fort staring me in the face, which I shouldnt have been surprised at since the station is Agra Fort. It is a big fort, they didn't mess about when they built this. Very imposing. The big red walls block any view inside, but once away from it the view is very impressive. The biggest fort I have seen. The rickshaw driver and his son, who very subtly maneuvered me into their rickshaw, pointed out my first view of the Taj. Fairly spectacular in the morning haze, I don't think it is smog as vehicles have been banned and factories closed that are close to the Taj to stop its erosion.
The rickshaw driver engineered me into a hotel of his choice, not the one in my plan, but I was very firm again. I was shown the room, I asked the price and said OK. It is worth 6 quid and the view of the Taj from the roof is spectacular.
The rickshaw driver, DS for short, offered to give me a guided tour of Agra, taking in the sites other than the Taj, so again I was very firm, asked the price and said OK. I thought I'd spoil myself for 7 quid. I could have bartered, but you may have noticed I am not good at it.
I was told by an Indian gent on the train to see the Raja Swami temple. It is not finished and is in Dalaybagh, about 15 minutes outside of Agra. DS offered to include this in his price, which is inflated anyway, but I smiled. The half built temple is very very ornate marble and very beautiful. The picture inside of the finished article shows it will be magnificent once complete. I doubt that entrance will be free as it is now also. There are no photos allowed, so you will have to check it out on the web if you are curious. DS's son, Nites, came with me as it was free. Fair enough. It was funny listening to him using the same phrases his Dad had used to describe the Taj Mahal. Especially since he then confessed this is his first visit. He's keen enough and a pleasant kid who shrugged off me questioning him over whether he should be at school. He is 14/15. Above the entrance to the temple itself, there is a huge golden word inlaid in the marble plinth. When I asked Nites what it said, he told me "No Photos" I have my doubts. This has been a great start to Agra, it is a beautiful semi-building. The artwork in the marble is better than I have ever seen. The gent who told me about this said it is more beautiful than the Taj. I would not be surprised if that is the case regarding the marble work.
Next stop Itmad-ad-daulah, locally known as the Baby Taj and another beautiful building. The first to move to white marble and the first to use pietra dura, the way the marble is inlaid in the Taj Mahal too. (facts courtesy LP). I could have spent time just sitting in the grounds, it is peaceful, but went back after a slow stroll to the waiting DS and son. Another cracking place and Agra is going great, so far.
The next stop was some gardens around the back of the Taj where you can get a complete view of it across the river. It is Rs100 to go in or you can wander down a path at the side of the gardens. You guessed it, I'm tight and took the path. It lead onto a beach by the river and the view is closer than that of the gardens. Lucky choice. The view of the Taj is the best yet. Initially the kids pestered for chocolate, rupees, photo. But they all started to cry and left when I sang back "No chocolate, no rupees, nothing". They had a laugh and got the message. I could have sat here for an hour or so, but DS is waiting. Mind you I would have frazzled sat on the white sand. Back at the rickshaw and a sting in the tail of the day, well a minor prick. No wisecracks. DS wants to take me to a carpet maker and marble inlay specialist. I forgo the carpet place, I already have 3 x 5 pound Ikea rugs at home, but concede to the marble place. The marble is pretty cool, actually and artistically. It is called Mughal and particular to Agra, so I am told, but India does put doubts in your mind when you are told anything, even what day it is. I belive them this time and may even treat myself and get a little marble table top sent home. I didn't do the Gilbert thing and jump in with both feet, I said I would think about it overnight. The marble bloke and DS were pretty good about it, no in your face touting, only professional, subtle touting.
DS took us back over a bridge that he told me "This was built by the British and forgotten by the Indian government". There was no level surface only interlinked potholes. I hope the railtrack on the top tier is in better nick.
I'm ready to go back and chill. It will give DS a better hourly rate too. He gave me some tips on pickpockets and touts then hits me with tomorrows schedule. After about 10 minutes of toing and froing he lets me have my own schedule, ALONE. He was not a pain about it, just pleasantly persistent and I was pleasantly firm, for once. So a mug of coffee I think and a chill.
I'm sat writing this log on the rooftop of the hotel with the Taj Mahal set in front of me, just bragging a bit. The call for prayers has gone off again, but I'm not going, yet again. The sun is dropping into the horizon, this and dawn are great times for me, in half decent weather that is.
A bloody smashing day in India. Even the commission visit to the marble place was a pleasure.

2 comments:

mand said...

hiya trouble,
hows it going? been beach bumming in koala lumpar yet? have you done any diving? its hoying it down here today. bec txt to tell me it was 22 degrees and only 10 o'clock a.m in canberra. alrite for some of you's. daves been showing me how to put hinges on and fit kitchen cupboards on to day! wahoo lucky me! so if you want some new doors on your kitchen when you get home i'm your woman. i am sat in the conservatory with the sound of the rain pounding on the roof writing this message, none of this sitting on roof tops watching the sun go down and typing for me, boo hoo! i suppose i could always climb on the roof and cling onto the chimney pot, on second thoughts naa.
bout time you stopped enjoying yourself and up dated this blog mister!
love you bro. mand.xx

Little Gil said...

oreet owd lad ,
sounds like a cool place and looks like it glad to here you had a nice guided tour not to much of a blag . how;s the knee tryyyyyyyyy ben;s just had a press as you can see ,r the dancing shoe's back on i would put a question mark in but i can't find it on the keyboard o well keep enjoying it and take no shit love gil beck andbb vtt ben dthj he's at it again little bum and he's just filled his pants time to go xxxxxxx