Panaji/Panjim. Goa's capital. (I think)

25/1. - Out of the station and into a toot-toot, the Goan word for the motorised rickshaws. It is getting on, so I treated myself, instead of getting the bus. I also treated myself to a posher hotel for the night, 16 quid this one Rs1220. A bit unfriendly, but easy. The checkin went something like "Passport" "Fill in", "Sign", "Go." Efficient I suppose, just like any self respecting stalag. Breakfast was included though. I gave the chips and curry a miss and just went for the tea and toast. Typical Brit. Oh, I had a banana too, so a little bit native. It is the Panji Residency, the Indian supermarket type hotel, wheel 'em in wheel 'em out, but it does the job.
26/1. - Moved onto my new residence, "The Park Lane Lodge" Rs720. I doubt it would get a dark blue card in Indian Monopoly, but it has bags of character, the right hand picture above. An old Portugese set of houses, run by an old Indian couple who lay the law down. The gate is closed at 22:00 and opened at 07:00, no washing clothes, no kettles and checkout at 08:00. It is still a good spot, although a bit noisy at night, but I brought some earplugs, a good buy. There was a baby crying, dogs howling, parties bouncing and someone snoring loud, but I think that was me, a tall, buxom, blonde knocking on my door, but then I snapped out of the dream.
The curfew suits me, I'm usually ready for bed after trekking around all day. This one is probably the most basic, but the cosiest, gezellig as the Cloggies would say.
Wandered into and around town, it is big time Portugese. I have to keep reminding myself where I am.The church at the top is the biggest in town, that I have found. I didn't try the steps, just sat in the shade on the steps and did some people watching. There are quite a few churches, dotted all over the place. The town has a few garden areas, a bit like plazas, which I will sit in later for a bit more people watching and perhaps a read. I was sat by the big church, I would give you its name, but, CORRECT, I have forgotten it and the Lonely Planet is at the hotel. Sod off, I'm not walking back to get it. It has to be 30+ degrees out there. Anyway I digress. I was sat at the church first thing and it was good to see the town get into motion. Scooters seem to be the prefered mode of transport. They must hold their elbows in high regard over here, as more helmets are on elbows than heads, but there are very few anyway. One lad had is wife and kid pillion and he had the helmet on. Everyone has different priorities I guess.
Panjim is quite hilly, but I have managed them so most people will, it is worth wandering up to the top for a look down, plus there are some good buildings up there. The town is definitely worth a day to wander around.
Treated myself to a slap up meal at the Venite for 4 quid. It was good, fish and I've had my first beer of the holiday, but better get back, curfew is soon, I don't want my rags turning into posh dress. I have put some dhobi into day, so at least some of my rags will be clean ones. Rs15 per item, a pair of socks is one. The clock is striking, I had better get a shift on, or I'll end up having to party all night.
27/1 - Had a great plan to go to the restaurant I went to last night for breakfast. I saw they did toast and a pot of tea, except they are shut on Sundays, so I defaulted to the favourite Indian place, I think it is called Yahir. The food is great, the staff very helpful about the food and it is cheap. I am begining to sound like the brother-in-law, Dave. There are 2 of them, they can work out which one.
I had something along the lines of upipadam. It was just the job, a sort of omlette without eggs and a cuppa of course, I resisted the puddings, it is breakfast. After I had ordered, I spotted the toast, which is what I really wanted, but "too late" sang the fat lady. Never mind, there is always tomorrow.
Decided to go and check out the beach at Candolim, as the plan, ok idea, is to go and practice my beach bum impression tomorrow for a few days. Jumped onto the bus, no problem, but getting off was a different matter. Sardines doesn't come into it. Eventually I was squeezed off, I am not the most agile ex-trained killer around. It will be fun tomorrow with all my gear.
The resort is not what I expected, there is one main drag that links the northern beaches and it is lined with shops, bars, restaurants, all sorts. The digs are back in the trees, between the strip and the beach.
I stepped of the bus and after about 10yds was greeted by Walter. I thought he was a Brummy, but he is from Burton on Trent. He looked spaced out to me, but was super friendly and gave me some local tips. More of Walter later. I think I will give him a page of his own.
I wandered in the direction of the beach, at least I thought it was, passed the local football pitch, passed lots of palms, past all sorts of buildings. There are lots of place to let and accomodation places, they look quite posh. Eventually I hit the beach. It's like Scottie has beamed me up and put me down in the Costa Del Sol, though how I know that, I don't know, I have never been. I am not sure I will like the beach side of Goa.
The beach is huge, full of whities, though not all from Blighty. A lot of middle aged people with bellies, so I am not sure a young ardonis like myself will fit in here. The beach is smart with lots of beds and sunshades and shacks for beer etc. Each beach is supposed to have a different character, Calangute is supposed to be mostly Indian tourists, but that is only hearsay.
Found myself a signpost to sit in the shade of and contemplate. Contemplate what I don't know, I haven't contemplated that yet. 3 lasses come up trying to flog me jewellry. I think they were only after my shade. They were really nice, no hard sell, just a bit of chat, shake hands and off they went, saying "Goodbye Dave" I don't know what she meant by that. That was a pleasant experience, no badgering, it was more like a friendly chat. One of them asked if I wanted to buy any of here old rubbish. She must have picked that up from the to;urists, I guess.
Better go and look for some accommodation. Eventually found one that looks quite posh, it is in the Lonely Planet for Rs 600, they asked for Rs800, I suggested Rs700, I don't know why, I paid Rs800. I can't do this haggle lark.
Back to Panjim. Checked out the short cut over the footbridge back to my digs. This could be a bit dodgy with all my gear on, there is no handrail. I think this could be the christening of the walking stick. Did a pre-pack, 20 minute kip (old Knacker), showered and back on the hoof. A bit of snap, blogging and emailing, then bed again before the witching hour, 22:00. The internet access is common in the bigger towns. There was nothing in Ganpatipule, but it is only a village. THe price seems to vary between Rs10 and Rs60 per hour, but it works OK. Not all have CD players, but a lot have cameras, head phones etc.
The cats, dogs, blonde etc. werent about tonight, just the disco beat, oh and the fireworks, today was a public holiday.
That is Panjim, off to the beach tomorrow, see you there with the sun cream.