Sunday 20 April 2008

Another day, another temple.

10/3 - Off on a moto up a hill to some temples, Wat Hanchey, about 20 Km away. We'd gone about 2 Km when there was a hint the price was too cheap, so we split the difference. We'd gone about 19Km and there were some old fellows by the roadside with silver pots. T, the driver, pulled over and one of the old blokes said some incantation over us, we threw some money in and we were off. "What was that all about Grandad?" Beats me !!
T said he would go slow and he did, until we hit the dirt track up the hill, then it was like a moto-X race. I knew he was getting bored on the way here when he was driving with his feet up on the front post. It was a good journey though, along the banks of the Mekong, through lots of small villages, although there weren't so many Hello's today, mind you people were going about their daily routines, mostly farming and some fishing. The countryside isn't dissimilar to the UK, only with different crops and different trees making up the woods and banana and mango trees scattered among the houses. OK, it's nothing like the UK. It is away from the houses in the countryside, which is very arid around here at the moment. I'd like to come back in the wet season to see the difference.
There are the usual women driving motos with baseball caps and pyjamas on carrying their shopping. I am getting used to it now and have a theory. They are the equivalent to the shellsuits the Scallies wear, I've hardly seen any tracksuits out here.
Back to the moto. After we battered up the hill, T had a flat front tyre. We had a look around the new temple being built. In here 4 lads had set up some wires, ropes, pullies and chains and were dragging a big Buddha into place, inch by inch. No cranes or forklifts out here mate!!
T had this thing in his head about showing me the cashew orchard, so he ushered me over to the orchard. The trees looked mostly bare, but he wasn't giving up. He spotted some at the top of one of the trees, off went the flip flops and up he went. I'm glad he didn't give up. He threw a couple down. They look like yellow peppers. "They aren't cashews." said clever clogs. "Yes they are, " he told me. He split one open, still not cashew nut, but they tasted lovely and sweet and juicy. T told me they are good for power, so I scoffed mine, then I spotted the cashew nut. It is like the stalk of the pepper, on the outside. I live and learn and was chuffed that T insisted I see them.
T went off down the hill now to get his flat fixed. He shouted back at me to sit in the shade. I wasn't awe inspired by the temples and the LP had promised great views of the Mekong, but I never saw them, so decided to wander down the hill to see if they were there and save T coming back up the hill. I got a good dab on, so kept stopping in the shade. The views still weren't great. 3 kids stood in their door frame and shouted to me, the usual Hello. Their Mam appeared, but the kids were too shy to come out to see the Barang (foreigner/Frenchman from old times). I had my binoculars in my hand, so enticed them over, with a push from Mam. One of their mates showed up and they shared the binoculars around. It is good to see how they do that.
I carried on to the base of the hill and sat in the shade to wait for T, whilst trying to have a conversation with a bloke and his daughter. T surprised me by coming down the hill. How was I to know there is another way up? He surprised me again by setting back off up the hill once I got onboard. How was I to know there were more temples up the hill and the good views I was expecting?? These were more like it. There were plenty of statues that seem to depict a story, so I asked T what one was. He didn't know, so asked the local magic man and passed it on to me. He tried to get me to go in and see the magic man to see if he could fix my legs and tie a bangle around my wrist, but I declined, ever the cynical, grumpy, old, non-believer. To be honest I'd wish I'd gone in for the experience, but I am a bit shy. REALLY. I never know how much to give people either. I later learned that the magic man is quite famous and lots of locals go to him for treatment. His specialty is mental health, so perhaps it wasn't my legs T was trying to fix.
The views of the Mekong from here are great. T was trying to hustle me around the temples at break neck speed, then he realised I only have one speed, so we sat on a wall to look out over the Mekong. He is really curious about my muscular dystrophy and was examining my legs and stomach. I was sat in the shade the other day and a bloke came over. He had watched me walk down the street. He pulled up my jeans leg and checked out my ankle, then was feeling my knee. This bloke had been discussing me with his mates, fellow moto drivers, before he gave me the once over. Anyway, back to T. He is also curious about how things work in the West and is full of questions. I have told a few Cambodians that the money removes the smiles from peoples faces. I love the way most of them beam with smiles and wish it happened more back home. The Cambodians see us here with the dollars thousands of miles from our homes and envy us. Which is the best?? Beats me. A mixture of both I guess. We'll all probably end up in a great big melting pot. There's a song in there for us oldies. He wanted me to tell him where Buddha had come from. I know where a few buggers have come from but Buddha?? My sisters and Thomo will find this hard to believe, but I did have an opinion where Buddha comes from. It's a good job T's not into football and politics, we could have been there for days.
We headed back to the moto, parked in a food stall out of the shade, for a boiled egg, mango and coke. Something to slush around on the way back, when T turned into the Devil on a moto. I never saw a great deal on the way back. I was too scared to take my eyes off the road. He thought speed bumps had to be taken at speed, but we made it back.
Yesterday, I emailed a couple about a homestay (Rana homestay, google it). They introduce people to the locals and rural life, so I checked my emails, phoned as requested and I'm in. I may not be able to get a room on stilts, but never mind. Now it is back for a kip. Khmer New Year is supposed to start at the weekend, but I was told the calendar does not get adhered to and there was a street party last night, so I'm knackered, from not sleeping for the noise, not through attending. I think tonights party could be washed out. I was woken by a monster storm. The road is flooded. The storm was good to watch, once I dragged myself out of my pit. The kids were running around in it and playing football, or water-football on the prom, just partying in the rain in general.
I nipped next door for some food and got invited to show off my prowess at pool. We lost the first game, but then my skill showed through as the luck increased and we won 2-1. I didnt push my luck and retired.

2 comments:

Unknown said...

Sunday 20 April

Tyne and Wear Derby:

NEWCASTLE 2 SUNDERLAND 0


Yahooooooo.....Howaaaaay the lads

Tiban said...

Gil,
Good to hear that you're going places and enjoying the journey. Wish you all the best and take care mate!

Cheers!

Tiban.