Sunday 20 April 2008

Kompong Cham by bike again.



9 / 4 = Breakfast and back out on the bike. I headed for an out of town temple. I could have done with gears, it was getting hot, hot, hot, but I made it. This temple is a bit different, Wat Nokor. It is an old ruined temple that has a few new pagodas built around it and had itself incorporated into a new one. The old stuff is definitely better than the new stuff, a bit like us blokes. This is a smashing place to wander around, lots of nooks and crannies and shrines tucked away in hideaways. The workstaff were having a kip on the cold tiles of the temple, so I decided to join them for a read, it is a tadge warm. There is supposed to be a big reclining Buddha, but I couldn’t find it and couldn’t hear it snoring. I’ll do another lap on the bike to see if I can spot it. While I think on, I saw a first on the way here. A young lady driving a moto was breast-feeding her kid as she went along. That must complete the full set of moto sightings. I think the Dutch are clever with what they can carry and do on their bikes, but the Cambodians are magic on their motos. I got directed to the reclining Buddha by the Tourist policeman, after coughing up my 2 dollars. It was a bit of a disappointment, the old fellow asleep in front of it was more of a character. I don’t get this Buddhist style painting.

2 lads told me about some temples on a couple of hills about 6Km away that are worth a look, Phnom Pros and Phnom Srei, where legend has it the women had a race with the men to build a stuppa through the night (A place where ashes are laid to rest). The women outfoxed the blokes by starting a fire, the men saw that they were leading and thought the fire was the sunrise, so they stopped working. You have to watch these cunning ladies, especially when you are a stuppa bloke. Because the ladies won, they don't have to propose to the men anymore, as was the custom and they get another chance to rub the blokes noses in it by saying NO. Not that they would. Anyway, I set off for the hills, but my engine started to overheat, so I put my legs in reverse and headed back towards town. I went back in by a new route, as is my want, to see if I could get lost. I passed a signpost saying "Minefield cleared", but I didn't go in to check. This end of town has all the big old colonial buildings from the French days. There are some stilt houses mixed in with them and they are grand stilthouses too. A lot of the old government and military places are out here too, also very grand. Out of the area it is more rundown, any old colonial stuff around here is not maintained. This area is along the riverbank. A lot of poor places seem to border a river.

I had not been this far up the river, it is a huge river. Here it widens and splits creating what looks like an island. The name Mekong brings an image of greatness to my mind and now I've seen it, the image is cemented there.

I meandered back along the river for a coffee and cake, but they were out of cake, so a beer it was. Then I took the bike back, alas. The shop owner is a real happy lady. We communicated with sign language and a lot of laughs. I picked up a couple of cakes on the way back, but the walk has got me perspiring profusely, so it was iced coffee and cake.

A couple of South African lasses parked their bums next to me. There were no other outside seats overlooking the Mekong. They have put the idea of going to Laos into my head, but I will have to ponder it. I have already delayed my Sydney flight once. Also a mate in New Zealand has emailed me to see if I fancy the England v All Blacks game in Auckland, so I'll have to see if he gets a ticket, as that would rule out Laos. I'll see how crocked I am after this trip and perhaps plan a Laos trip later next year. You come away for 6 months thinking you have plenty of time to see what you want. NO WAY JOSE. The more you travel the more you realise there isn't enough time or money. If things carry on the way they are, I'll just make it back for Christmas.

I wanted to stay up and watch the Liverpool game last night, but I was too knackered and after another day on the bike it looks like the Man U game is out the window too, especially since I have booked a moto to take me out of town tomorrow, so it's snap and bed.

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